Engine/gearbox fitting sequencing advice

[Smithy77]

I have a K series engine with Caterham 6-speed box. Engine is soon to arrive after rebuild, gearbox currently hanging off its mount. I need to replace the oil seals for the prop shaft and speedo sensor, so I need to pull the box out to do these before the engine arrives. Before removal I'll be extracting all the gearbox oil to replace with fresh.

My question is, what is the best sequence for refitting the engine and gearbox, and also how/when to fill the gearbox with oil?

Past 5-speed boxes I've had have been relatively easy to top up via the filler/level plug on the N/S as there has been a good inch of clearance to get a flexi spout oil can in there.

It's a bit hard to tell with the box currently hanging as it is, but my concern is the lack of access to the 6-speed filler plug which is on the O/S, as it looks like it will be much tighter against drivers foot well and its immediately adjacent to the joint of vertical, diagonal and horizontal chassis members (right at the front bottom corner of the foot well), so filling through the foot well seem like an unlikely option.

What is the general consensus for this with a 6-speed?

Edited: Just to add, I have the Caterham belltank dry sump system with the tower thing on the bellhousing

[Jim 123]

I know that Caterham Midlands used to advocate fitting the engine with the gearbox in situ.  Would it be an option for you to prep and fill your box, return it to the mounts, and then fit the engine? 

[Smithy77]

The gearbox is now out of the car. The K-series assembly guide suggests bolting box to engine before install, so at the moment I am planning to do it like this. I re-evaluated the filler plug situation and I think with the box moved over before tightening the mount bolts, there should be enough space to fill via the filler plug.

Unless there are significant pitfalls with this plan, I'll crack on!

[revilla]

Just one thought (never having put the engine and box in together so may be rubbish!). If you crane the engine and box in tipping them backwards, once roughly in place you may be able to level it up but with the whole lot slide further forwards than its final installed position, putting the filler in a more accessible position.

[Smithy77]

Good idea and noted 

[MADMALC]

Gearbox to engine out of the car is the easiest.

A load leveler  https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/cll500-load-leveller/  will help when inserting the whole unit.

Remember to loosen the filler plug before you get the gearbox back in.

Do not forget to bolt the gearbox mounting (the right way round) to the gearbox when it is out of the car.

I have always used a funnel with a length of flexible tubing attached to fill the gearbox. When you have finished just push the end of the tube into the funnel to 'seal' it and it will clean and ready for next time. There is always a next time.

 

[Smithy77]

I have a pump action oil can with flexible spout that you can shove in the filler plug. Worked OK last time I used it on my old car with a 5 speed.

[Titanium7]

I have heard of some that Q Maxed a hole on the tunnel side and fitted a grommet where the filler hole is. Good idea for when you don't have carpets.

[Jonathan Kay]

Lots of good points above. Just two more:

• The shortest tool that I know to remove the level plug is a bit of hex bar (sawn-off Allen key) in a ratchet spanner. But get the type that reverses with a lever rather than by using it the other way round... I learnt the hard way...
• It is possible to get a top plate with a filler tube. If it looks as if it's going to be very tight to fill through the level plug that gives you another option.

Jonathan

[Smithy77]

Thanks for the pointers Jonathan/Titanium. I indeed have the sawn off end of a 10mm allen key floating somewhere in my toolbox which I used last time.

I hear the top plate with dip stick (I assume this is what you were referring to?) is hideously expensive, so will try and make do without if possible