subirg Posted March 6, 2015 Share Posted March 6, 2015 I'm changing my front pads. Got AP 4 pots (R400 Duratec 2007). Can anyone tell me the procedure please? Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
martyn Posted March 6, 2015 Share Posted March 6, 2015 Wheels off.There are 2 pins that run through the calliper and hold the pads in place. Push these out by pushing them inboard with a centre punch or blunt nail or similar. You will probably find that the wing stay prevents you from getting one of them all the way out. In this case, you need to remove the calliper from the upright. Complete removal isn't necessary though, if you remove the top calliper bolt and loosen the bottom one, you'll be able to rotate the calliper enough to get the pin out. There were some very thin shims between my callipers and uprights and they were quite easy to miss so be careful here.With the pins out, the metal retaining plate/springy thing will come off.Then the old pads simply slide out through the back of the calliper.The piston can be pushed back. Be careful to ensure fluid doesn't overflow out of your master cylinder.Reassemble in reverse order.Here is a diagram of the callipers.. http://www.apracing.com/drawings/cp7600_12cd.pdf Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simonpa Posted March 6, 2015 Share Posted March 6, 2015 Look on youtube for 'ap change pads'https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KMHV-ZFOVHMThis is a bigger caliper and you have pis rather than screw-bolts holding the pads in, but the process is similar. I don't like his method of using a screwdriver on the old pad material to push the pistons back in, but as you are changing pads, this won't matter.As mentioned above - loosen the brake fluid fller cap and check it's not too full, or it may overflow when you push the caliper pistons back..Use a little coppaslip grease on the back of the pads and the shims - be very careful not to get any on the pad face or disks!When back in (and only when the pads are in place), pump the footbrake to push the pads up to the disk. You don't want to be doing this when you start to drive the car...Well done for attempting some DIY - always good to understand more about how your car works! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subirg Posted March 6, 2015 Author Share Posted March 6, 2015 Thanks for the procedure and top tips chaps! I'm changing pads all round - have done the rears myself before, but never the fronts. Bit of fun and as you say, it's good to develop a better understanding of the mechanicals. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris956 Posted March 6, 2015 Share Posted March 6, 2015 On a side issue - anyone know the correct torque setting for the calliper bleed nipples please ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OliW Posted March 6, 2015 Share Posted March 6, 2015 Not tight. A quarter turn or so to open and close is all it takes Chris. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Jonathan Kay Posted March 6, 2015 Member Share Posted March 6, 2015 For all the basic maintenance jobs I recommend the advice with pictures from Alcester Racing 7s.Jonathan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subirg Posted March 6, 2015 Author Share Posted March 6, 2015 Yes Alcester is useful but doesn't cover 4 pot front calipers. Does a great job on rears though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Jonathan Kay Posted March 6, 2015 Member Share Posted March 6, 2015 You're right, sorry. I blame the wind at Hullavington today... If only we could do multiauthor wikis...Jonathan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gregs79 Posted March 6, 2015 Share Posted March 6, 2015 I am currently doing the same. The fronts seem OK, but I can't seem to wind the backs in at all even having taken the the reservoir cap off.Could it be that they are already fully wound back or do i need to disconnect the handbrake (which is not on I hasten to add) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subirg Posted April 4, 2015 Author Share Posted April 4, 2015 Darn it! Rear pads done, now trying to do the fronts. The Caliper bolts are very tight and won't budge... Any one got any top tips for how to persuade them to loosen? Have applied some WD40 am letting that soak in before having another go... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RS2000 Posted April 4, 2015 Share Posted April 4, 2015 Not much help, but you may find that Plusgas has better penetration than WD40 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SM25T Posted April 5, 2015 Share Posted April 5, 2015 Leverage is your friend. Long breaker bar. Are you sure you are turning the caliper bolts anti-clockwise ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subirg Posted April 5, 2015 Author Share Posted April 5, 2015 Done it! Took a combination of WD40, impact wrench and breaker bar, but got it loose in the end! And yes- I was turning it anti clockwise... :)thanks is all for the tips! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Domus Posted April 5, 2015 Share Posted April 5, 2015 This is one reason never to top up the brake fluid reservoir. As long as you don't have a leak, when the fluid becomes low it indicates wear on the pads. If you keep topping it up to the max to compensate for pad wear you risk overflow when pushing back the pistons for pad replacement.With new pads and a full reservoir the system has the correct amount of fluid. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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