makingff Posted July 1, 2013 Share Posted July 1, 2013 I've noticed a tiny oil leak, literally a drip, from the sump plug on my k-series. Doing the Brands track day next week so want to sort this before then. Having gone through the archives, it appears that it may be the copper washer. I've ordered a new one from CC. My question is as follows. If I jack the car up from the passenger side (side of the sump plug) and leave it for 10 minutes, will I get away with taking out the sump plug, replacing the washer and getting the plug back in without having to drain the oil? The oil is a few hundred miles old so don't really want to drain it. Also, anyone know what the torque for the sump plug is? Cheers Simon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CharlesElliott Posted July 1, 2013 Share Posted July 1, 2013 Oil will come out. So you can just try to be quick.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Green Posted July 1, 2013 Share Posted July 1, 2013 Very quick. The oil will come out fast. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomB Posted July 1, 2013 Share Posted July 1, 2013 Either put up with it until you next change the oil, or drain into a very clean washing up bowl, replace washer, and pour oil back in. Mine has a drip from the Dry sump plug every now and again - piece of cardboard on the garage floor is the answer! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wrightpayne Posted July 1, 2013 Share Posted July 1, 2013 you can anneal the copper washer to make it soft again - they work harden. lot on tinternet showing how to do it!. Ian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomB Posted July 1, 2013 Share Posted July 1, 2013 If you try to change the washer with the oil still in the car, any chance you could set up a web cam so we can watch just how much of a mess it makes 😬 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
makingff Posted July 1, 2013 Author Share Posted July 1, 2013 Thanks for the responses, it seems as though I should be able to get away with changing the washer without too much trouble. Have also invested in some Hylomar Blue for the thread and noted that 'hand tight with a small spanner and a bit' appears to be the correct torque! Simon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
makingff Posted July 1, 2013 Author Share Posted July 1, 2013 Quoting TomB: If you try to change the washer with the oil still in the car, any chance you could set up a web cam so we can watch just how much of a mess it makes 😬 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mankee Posted July 1, 2013 Share Posted July 1, 2013 I think I use 25nm for both the sump and Apollo drain plugs, along with a new copper washer and dowty seal, respectively. Never had oil leaks from these areas before, touch wood. Just elsewhere. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stationary M25 Traveller Posted July 1, 2013 Share Posted July 1, 2013 You won't change the washer without losing several litres of oil. As above, drain the lot into a new drain can and reuse it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
makingff Posted July 1, 2013 Author Share Posted July 1, 2013 Ok, drain pan ordered as well. Should be a piece of cake now! Famous last words... Simon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevethemook Posted July 1, 2013 Share Posted July 1, 2013 I used a pal of mine to put the copper washer onto the bolt while I covered up the drain hole with my finger.I then whipped the bolt back in. Lost very little..Obviously make sure the engine is stone cold 😳 Steve Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Jonathan Kay Posted July 1, 2013 Member Share Posted July 1, 2013 *arrowup* *arrowup*I was going to suggest something like that, with a mate swopping the washer while you held a bung. But a finger (and the webcam) is much better... J Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DougBaker Posted July 1, 2013 Share Posted July 1, 2013 My sump plug needed a helicoil fitted and the only way to seal that is with Hylomar Blue. The washer never gets a properly snug fit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark w Posted July 1, 2013 Share Posted July 1, 2013 If you just want to stop the drip until you next change the oil ............... unscrew the sump plug a few turns ( dont remove fully !! ) and wrap some PTFE tape around the thread both sides of the washer .Rescrew tight . It worked for me Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
makingff Posted July 2, 2013 Author Share Posted July 2, 2013 Quoting Mark W: If you just want to stop the drip until you next change the oil ............... unscrew the sump plug a few turns ( dont remove fully !! ) and wrap some PTFE tape around the thread both sides of the washer .Rescrew tight . It worked for me I'll give this a go first and then can do the full repair if necessary. Thanks all. Simon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fil M Posted July 2, 2013 Share Posted July 2, 2013 25nm is the torque for the plug. I re soften my washer by heating it to red hot with a blow torch and plunging into cold water. The PFTE route is sensible.... I know that if you try and refit the plug with the oil coming out at a fast rate it goes everywhere as soon as it hits your fingers!!!! Tried that on an old car a few years back for the same reasons. I got it back in ok but it was messy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
makingff Posted July 3, 2013 Author Share Posted July 3, 2013 Update... Decided to go the PTFE tape route, realised I didn't have any, partially undid the sump plug, cleaned the oil off then used some Hylomer (?) Blue round the tread and re-tightened the plug. Left it a few minutes and tightened a bit more. A bit more cat litter on the garage floor and fingers crossed! Simon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
makingff Posted July 5, 2013 Author Share Posted July 5, 2013 Well, that didn't work... ☹️ Oil out Sunday it is then, new washer, even more things crossed. Simon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stationary M25 Traveller Posted July 5, 2013 Share Posted July 5, 2013 Try a dowty seal washer instead of copper. Steel washer with a rubber seal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nickh7 Posted July 5, 2013 Share Posted July 5, 2013 what Ian said , I've got one on and its worked a treat Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
makingff Posted July 5, 2013 Author Share Posted July 5, 2013 Just looked up dowty seal - looks good! As I'm not near the car or the new washer, any idea what size I'll need? Thanks. Simon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nickh7 Posted July 5, 2013 Share Posted July 5, 2013 Talk to these guys Think Automotive they will know just what you need and also give a club discount , worth getting a few in Funnily enough I've just nipped up my sump plug Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stationary M25 Traveller Posted July 5, 2013 Share Posted July 5, 2013 Not sure of size. You can get them dirt cheap from hose repair places like Pirtek ... or any hydraulic hose supplier/repairer. Probably also most car spares shops Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clive Faulkner Posted July 6, 2013 Share Posted July 6, 2013 Maybe I'm OTT but I always use a new washer after any oil change. While buying one you can buy a dozen and they don't cost a lot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now