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Tools required for Build


pogmothoin62

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Hi,

This is my first post on any sort of internet site and also a first attempt at building anything mechanical - a steep learning curve on all fronts and so any help would be most gratefully received. The one thing I don't lack is enthusiasm! Question 1 would be going through the tool kit I have most of the tools specified but could do with some advice for some of them e.g. Circlip pliers (straight, bent, size) rivet gun (size type), crimp pliers (size, type). Apologies if this first post is a tad vague but I really do have no idea! Thanks in anticipation that somebody out there will take pity on me! 

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Welcome. Where are you?

There's lots in the archives and the Guides, but just say when you can't find what you're looking for.

I built mine in 1998 and hadn't done anything like it before.

General tool stuff:

  • The Club has discounts from Halfords.
  • Good lighting.
  • To my surprise a small socket set (1/4") made many tasks easier.
  • Ratchet ring spanners save a lot of time.
  • Eye protection!

Specific tool stuff:

  • Circlip pliers: I think I only used these for the mechanical speedo drive. 90° ends and quite small. Borrow?
  • Rivet gun: I bought the cheapest manual Stanley.
  • Crimp pliers: I think I only needed these for spade, ring and bullet terminals rather than anything proprietary. Do buy a pair rather than using pliers, but cheap is fine. Practise first!
  • Have you bought your jack and axle stands yet?
  • Are you going to buy or borrow the engine crane? I borrowed. Apparently balance beams help a lot too.
  • Do you need a 41mm nut and big torque wrench for your rear hubs? I bought the socket and borrowed the wrench.
  • Get a multimeter now and get familiar with it.

Recommendations and links available to all of those if needed. Just ask.

There are some very helpful and generous Members out there. And "Get to Know your Seven" sessions.

Also have a look for others' build tips...

:-)

Jonathan

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Not sure you'll need circlip pliers. New cars have electric speedos and no longer have a mechanical drive. Cheap pop rivet gun will do the job. Although useful you shouldn't need a multi meter for the build. 

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....and remember, it doesn't matter how many tools you have, there will always be a situation when you haven't got the right one, some improvisation comes in handy then.

All the best with the build, get ready to find the parts which haven't been supplied with the kit, if you follow my drift.

Regards.

Nigel. 

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See what I mean about the generosity! 41mm socket also available in South Oxfordshire.

Good point about the hex driver socket set. I fiddled around with sawn off bits of key and that would have been much better. (And recently I got a set with my tiny new torque wrench for the bike.)

I used a variety of socket angle drives and wobble bars to get round some fiddly bits, especially on the front suspension IIRC.

Multimeter... well it's widely known that I don't consider a gentleman is properly dressed without one. :-) It's true that you shouldn't need one for the build, but it's also true that without one you can waste a lot of time* trying to sort out wiring problems, component failure and failure to start both during the build and for ever after.

Jonathan

* I think it's the second biggest cause in the whole of 7ing...

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See what I mean about the generosity!

It occurs to me that maybe we could do with some sort of central "register" on the website listing expensive or one-off equipment (like engine cranes) that members would be prepared to lend out.  I'm not sure how it might work, but I imagine that individual lenders would need to be able to add/delete items.   I'll drop Shaun a note and see what he says.

JV

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It does seem like there must be a large number of engine hoists and 41mm sockets dotted around the country that lie 'inactive' for 99.9999% of the time so a register sounds like a great idea.  Just trying to think of anything I have that is similarly essential, but largely redundant - must be something in my garage.  Anyway, good luck with setting it up - hope I can contribute.

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Yes. Lots of hub nut sockets but no suitable torque wrench so far... too valuable or do many do it by calculating the force on a solid lever?

Other possibilities: cam lock tools (for the nonscrewdriverists), proprietary crimping tools, engine brackets, wheel aligning gadgets, brake bleeding kits... 

... what else is only needed episodically, not too cheap to be less than the cost of transport and not too valuable to lend?

:-)

Jonathan

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do many do it by calculating the force on a solid lever

For my first build, I did the nut up good and tight and then got my local garage to set the final torque.

For the second, I did as you suggest, using a breaker bar plus extension plus a carefully positioned (and big) spring balance.

JV

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Interesting about the Contralube. I know it's used in some industries but I don't know of any evidence for 7ish applications.

Built mine without in 1998 and the electrical problems since then have been:

  • ECU feed separated because it was under tension.
  • Battery failure.
  • Mechanical failure near the terminal in a rear light.
  • Something that needed fettling in a headlamp.
  • Failed water temperature sender.

So no bad contacts within things that were designed to fit each other.

But I had a fair bit of previous on non-automotive electrics and electronics, as opposed to the rude mechanicals... 

Any other experiences or views on this?

Jonathan

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One bit of prep advice: buy some cheap thin foam carpet underlay in Homebase - about 13 quid for a big roll - and cover every inch of the car bodywork with it (taped on with normal masking tape). And some cheap pipe insulation to cover every inch of chassis tubing around the car. Doesn't guarantee a scratch-free build, but certainly helps.

On engine hoists, does anyone have one to lend near Twickenham? I need one for a few weeks while I do the engine/chassis/bodywork shuffle on my Elan. (Happy to donate to charity etc)

All the best

Ned

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