Western Isles Tour 2018

We are recently back from a very good trip to the Outer Hebrides. The area offers an excellent tour for small groups of Sevens. We had excellent sunny weather, which made for a very pleasant trip.

The Outer Hebrides are sparsely populated and parts of them feel very remote. Many times we found ourselves virtually alone on beautiful sandy white beaches. The tourist season is short, and caters mostly for cyclists and walkers. The flora and fauna is rich and varied, and the roads are pretty empty and well maintained. Overtaking is easy. Our favourite Isles were Harris and Barra.

The restaurant prices are fairly high, but we found that the service was cheerful and the seafood is really very good.

Here is a brief account, which maybe of use to others...

Our first night was in the Inveraray Inn – a good stopover with cheap Sunday night dinner deals.

The next day we drove to Oban to catch the ferry to Castlebay, Barra (at the southern end of the Hebrides). Oban is an interesting town and certainly worth a look around as you wait for the ferry. Head for the Oban Chocolate company for tasty cake and coffee (and chocolate).

We stayed in the Barra Beach Hotel – which was comfortable, clean and friendly. It is also right next to a beautiful and isolated beach. We tried our hand at surfing on the hotels kayaks – and loved it. We also visited Barra Beach Airport – which is only used when the tide it out. They have a good cafe where you can watch the incoming aircraft whist you munch on cake and coffee. We also climbed the tallest hill, Heaval; a short but steep walk with great views.

Next we caught the ferry from Ardmhor to Eriskay and stayed at the Polochar Inn. Polochar is a comfortable, no nonsense, type of place right on the seafront. We had good food (like everywhere we stayed). We drove to Benbecula and on the way we picked up hot smoked Salmon from Salar Smokehouse for lunch. We also took a short hike up Rueval to take in the views.

The following day we blatted onto North Uist (via Hebridean smokehouse). We had a quick scout around the RSPB reserve and were harassed by Arctic Turn – it seems the bird population of the Western Isles is not keen on visitors. This was not an isolated event.

We then went to a huge, beautiful and deserted beach on the North end of Berneray.

Our next island was an unexpected highlight. The Isle of Harris is mountainous and beautiful. We headed to the east of the island after arriving at the Leverburgh ferry port (and it looked like a complicated navigation for the ferry captain from Berneray). The eastern road is also called the ‘Golden Road’. It was virtually empty and twisted and turned through the hillsides – ideal and enjoyable blatting for a Seven.

We then did the faster Harris road (A859), and this was good too. Harris is a nice place.

After a quick look in Gin Distillery in Tarbert (thank you for soup and toilets). We headed off to look at Scalpay bridge. This is worth doing for the excellent blatting roads and views.

Our accommodation for the next few nights was in Seacroft, Aird Uig (we stayed in the Seapods on the cliffedge). Aird Uig must be one of the remotest places in the UK, and the site of a dilapidated radar RAF station from the cold war. The hosts were welcoming and it was a lot of fun (and great seafood). Aird Uig is beautiful place but it is slightly alternative – I loved it (although I also like Zombie films). It is good – go there.

We then explored the Northern end of Lewis, including the Butt of Lewis and the ancient Callanish Standing Stones. It was OK, and it completed our journey, but it could not compare to what we had seen on the the other islands.

We caught the ferry from Stornaway to Ullapool and stayed in Ardvreck B&B. Word got though to the local bird population that we were visiting, and they also decided to let us know their thoughts while we tucked into fish and chips (b*****ds).

Finally on route back we decided to have a look around Skye (and stayed in Seafar). Unfortunately we missed the best of this island (due to low cloud and drizzle), but we had fun on the excellent mountain road B885 across from Portree to the western side and popped into the Talisker Distillery.

This was probably our favourite tour of recent years (and quite a long one at 2100 miles). The excellent roads, weather, remote and beautiful scenery, great seafood and company really made it.

Simon (and also Alice, Rob and Sally)



Hi thanks for blog on western isles.  Looked great trip and doing  NC run again this year and skye.   But would love to do the western isles run 

poss do write up for mag. And contact club as they looking for diff trips 


Hi I contacted you last year about your trip to the isles ,, was poss thinking of going next year poss may just wondered if you booked all the ferries before you went or just turned up hoped for the best 

many thanks 


Hello Derek,

We booked all the ferries before (for less stress).

i think that you probably could just turn up, but it might be more risky on busy days (I don't really know though).

i hope the weather will be good - I think that this would be a big factor for how it goes!




Thanks Derek,

Enjoy your NC run - hopefully the good weather will keep up for you.

Cheers Simon.

 Hi.    simon did you get a ferry from Ullapool to sky.   ??  Been to sky couple times over bridge and ferry ,,this year staying at Glenelg  and. Getting small ferry over from nr Glenelg. Hotel 


Hello Derek,

We did think about getting the ferry from the mainland to Skye, and then returning via the bridge. However, in the end we decided to take the bridge both ways (and this meant we could have another go at the famous Applecross pass once more Driving )




Have done applecross twice once each way must admit think    anti clockwise  best view down last  bit of pass.  Stoped both times at applecross inn for meal great crab salad.        Tried to book there for night but     Both times full was talking to bloke there he says.   Peak times they get booking year plus in advance 


They have a pretty roaring trade going!

We crossed over the pass in drizzle, after a long hot spell and it was slightly greasy. The road condition and grip didn't seem that great compared to some of the other excellent Scottish roads.

Great idea.  I plan to do Harris in September.  I'll split the trip up, 1st night in Bridge of Allan 2nd day, 5 hour trip to Uig and pick up the ferry to Tarbert will develop from there but may  camp the first night on Harris.      

Thanks so much for the write up



 Hi.    Keith.    Could you let me have some info when you get back.  As planning trip next year not sure dates but poss beginning May.   Like the run round western isles.    Like west coast of Scotland.     


Yes, no problem. I belive that if you are going early May, you may miss the start of the midges!





Thanks     Keith.    Must have been lucky on both trips first in May after Yorkshire pie run then year after   End august .   Not many midges poss lucky 

or yorkshire blood  is to rich for them           Mate of mine goes fishing to place called rosehall north of Inverness  we went one year just for couple days got Eaton alive.      Hope third time lucky.     Roads quiet on both runs but all accomadation full 

but now book much in advance as poss.    So nice job just aft Xmas sorting out route and acommadation    Like sorting trip and once booked something to look forward to      Hoping to do a few trips next year first.    Being Yorkshire pie run.   Did first two but missed last year  

enjoy your run.  


Hi Kieth how did your trip to Harris go 


Wasn’t.  Lucky with weather this time just come back from Scotland rain every day for last nine days not had hood down.   Glenelg ferry to sky.   Which was covered in mist and raining   Hell of a seven mile road when you get of Glenelg ferry to main road.   Makes roads round drumbeg.   Look like a smooth motorway 


Oh no, that is very bad luck with the weather. I hope that the trip was good in other ways.

we are just back from France. Apart from one massive storm (an all nighter) we struggled to keep out of the heat.


Yes good trip anyway.   Met bloke called Bruce sevens.  He had been in Fran c,e previous.   Week and had good weather.   Met him for couple days.  At   Glen Elg inn nice place having breakfast.   Looking over to sky one minute you could see it next all white.   But went for run over weather crap.  Place absolutely full