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    I am a bit late starting this blog as I have been building for a couple of months.

    Most problems seem soluble with thought and e mails to Derek at Caterham.

    I wonder if anyone has any Ideas about the rear ARB. I thought this would be straightforward. The drop link needs an extension piece which I am sure would work well but Derek tells me they don't use these now and that I should just bolt it on. How??? I am sure I need an extension piece.

    I would welcome some advice.

     

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    Here are the installation steps I followed for setting up a VHPC exhaust system onto my Caterham S3 K-Serie.

     

    First, here are the items received from CCUK:DSC_0009s.JPG.26d4b79eec89ebc4f9f3fbe45c4b66d5.JPGDSC_0002s.JPG.3be1859c4c642b47e28bb6de88767a43.JPGDSC_0003s.JPG.4f65fdd2d6a54be3e1e990fa639bcf90.JPGDSC_0004s.JPG.64ac5d70733311747270facd3f03ce1f.JPGDSC_0006s.JPG.c850c6eed192d05f55f4ab19ec57f926.JPGDSC_0007s.JPG.2a27ea62c4c23c3a4d9350cd1df69906.JPGDSC_0008s.JPG.7099cfd02b665f3b03819bc6eb3a6c70.JPGDSC_0009s.JPG.5cab0bc06ce30de439d7a2a544838bce.JPG

    Step 1 : Full mirroring: All parts are made of steal; the goal is the get the aspect of inox.

    Tools:

    ....

  1. Many thanks to a team sparing partner of old for responding to my article in this months LF for help with the remote gearshift.

    For those who have contacted me with requests for help here's what he said below:

    "I also run a  type 2 gearbox and a trick I picked up from ex-hillclimb champion (in a 7 with this gearbox type) was to:

    • Drill two holes in the flat metal linkages, about equidistant
    • Install two long bolts (the same size as the existing bolts is ideal) with three nuts - one on the left hand link inner and one each on the right hand link (one inside and one outside)
    • Nylocs are ideal as they don't come undone!
    • You then have a mechanism whereby you can exactly gap the two links and also add rigidity.
    • The links have plastic washers with steel sleeve inners, so replace those at the same time. Also check the rest of the linkage is doing what it should be!
    • Use a rigid gearlever knob (I think the existing one looks OK but ali is better! I used to have one with a rubber insert and the gearchange was awful.
    • Make sure the gearbox mounts are sound. Otherwise you're moving the gearbox rather than the mechanisms.
    • While doing that check the reverse stop hasn't moved. This is on the chassis and stops the lever going over into reverse gear territory accidentally."
  2. Jonathan T
    Latest Entry

    I've decided to crimp on new pins as the easiest way of getting a neat result.  I've used 10mm heat shrink (CC do supply a length of heat shrink on the wires), and bound the four headlight wires together and then added the indicator wire - applied heat, cut down a grommet (not too happy about having to cut it) and threaded the wires through the grommet and then down the head light mount.  That happened in a matter of minutes.  Getting the grommet to locate took some time, but keep it warm and gently poke at it with a blunt end and it does locate.  I tried different rotations of the grommet, and eventually it located itself.

    The wires then passed through another grommet in the upper wishbone mount (again easily) and the tab on the bottom of the headlight mount was located - holes were aligned and the bolt slid in.

  3. andysteele
    Latest Entry

    Over 6 months of fun into ownership, and no major drama's! Loved going aero, but back to screen for the winter, I miss the aero experience already (will this be the last change back?). Clear aero definitely an advantage with lowered floors and tillets, and avoided putting a central mirror which means no obstructions forward visibility (but limited rear visibility!).

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    Enjoyed getting out on a couple L7C ReHaB blats, though wasnt quite prepared for some of the roads (single track, grass and gravel, surely not made for a Seven!). First ended up being a 140mile round trip monster, 2nd was shorter but resulted in failed brake light switch and rattle from the exhaust. Also put in an appearance with local classic car club showing cars at the Wokingham Heritage day!

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    Having now swapped back to the 8-spoke wheels, now fitted with CR500's, and I understand what all the fuss is about, its a great tyre, good feel, good grip, but noticing the lower gearing from the 55-profile. Have also purchased a cheap action cam (SJCAM SJ4000) and spent sometime playing with various mounts and positions - YouTube.

    5-DSC07358.jpg.0e28ad93c98da5df69f4b694e42104ad.jpg 4-Image4.jpg.22e744b79a045bfe334d66dfe6cf417b.jpg

    in months 4 to 7

    trips out - 19

    miles - 500

    jobs - 

    • speedo calibration (trial and error) for Yoko A539 and Avon CR500's
    • Spa Mirrors, ounted with P-Clips
    • fitted aero screen (and swapped back for winter)
    • fixed brake light swtich
    • removed exhaust heat shields, one failed jubilee clip

    purchases - 

    • Spa Mirrors - ebay
    • Softbits shower cap
    • cheapo action cam!
    • break light switch
  4. Caterham Cars are attending the Regent Street Motor Show and will attempt to build a Caterham Seven (160?) in 6 hours with only four technicians.

    For more information see here or https://t.co/T5RhKeJXSn 

    James Bond’s latest car – the unique Aston Martin DB10 will be there as well see here

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    My first 7, Superlight no 6, was completed in Aug 1997 and sadly sold in 2007, my second 7, well 1/2 a seven was delivered on Friday! A 420R with lots of trimmings. I had thought my 7 days were over but after a couple of years of odd mentions by my Son Simon, along the lines of  "Can we build a 7 together one day Dad" in April we finally got serious. After some tough talking, where I explained this needed to be on equal terms and where my son explained, "Where does he send the cash for his share"!! 

    Knowing he was now very serious, I suggested we rent a 7 just to make sure he knew what he was getting into. We picked up the rental car from Caterham North on a Friday afternoon of what promised to be the wettest weekend of the year. I drove the car for first half of the trip home, I suspect I was as excited as he was at the thought of his first drive, it didn’t disappoint, the grin told it all and after the end of his series of bends up a hill that would make a good hill climb, I said: “So are we getting one”? Words were not needed!!! We placed the order at the end of the weekend.

    The build has so far gone well. We have had the usual niggles but nothing too bad. My hope of aiming to avoid talking to Derek at CC has failed after the first day

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    Some of you that visited Caterham Midlands a few years ago I’m sure will have met Nick Potter.  Since he left Caterham, he has set up his own business that he advertises every month in Lowflying.  Well, on Saturday October 17th, he is holding an Open Day to show off his capabilities.  I’ve been using him since he set up in business with no complaint at all.  Of course, it helps that I can use my bus pass after I’ve left my Se7en there.

     

    In addition to looking around his premises, the obligatory hot dogs, tea, coffee, biscuits will be on offer.

     

    Why not come along.

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    My Wife is a Motorbility customer and her car is up for renewal. Because her circumstances have changed she now has to use a mobility scooter so she needs a car to transport it. We attended the Motobility show at  Stoneleghe a few weeks ago and looked at the the new Ford S Max, just the car we thought to fit the bill. So we contacted our local dealer to get a test drive, will get one for us to try, did not hear a thing, so went in last week, was told , sorry not had time to chase it up!! will do it this afternoon and ring you,!! Still waiting!!

    I have been ringing round East Anglian Ford dealers today to be told that no one has a Auto S Max to try! How the Hell are you supposed to test a car out if no one has one, and the sales staff can't be bothered!!

    life must be too good in the Car world .

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    Hi everyone just joined up and collected our very first caterham and thought we would put ourselves out there so to speak . We are Rob&Sarah  from south bedfordshire and complete newbies to owning and running a caterham . Anyone around south beds area who can give us a few pointers ? 

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    Hi guys,

    My 2011 Sigma has just passed its MOT, but I mean JUST! The guy at Kwik Fit tested the lamda maximum value for Fast Idle at 1.027 whereas the maximum allowed is 1.030 (according to his machine!). The VOSA guide says the maximum should be 1.09 so in actual fact it is well under.

    Has anyone else had any issues with this variance in the maximum values?

    Many thanks

    Iain

  5. Sad to hear that the Caterham Midlands operation in Earl Shilton has closed. The site to reopen under new owners. I used to travel down from Newcastle for work to be done and was always happy with the results.

    Will have to find somewhere more local now.

     

  6. For those of you following my previous long winded diatribe, here is the final chapter of this year long saga..

    Previous blog here: Link

    Having previously consigned myself to the fact the Titan Roller barrels leaked and ticked over too high, I decided to contact Titan anyway to see if there was anything they could do. Turns out they could, and duly collected mine and sent a new replacement set the following day. Not bad considering I purched them back in October! Thanks Brian!
    In the interim Jason at Hellier had been busy starting to put together the bottom end. Things immediately came to a hault after disassembling and cleaning the donor block I'd purchased. Too much corrosion meant that the liner heights would be compromised, and in fact the whole block was rendered useless. Not wishing to take any further risks I decided to buy a brand new block from Rimmer Bros. £247 plus vat. Thanks very much. Shame I didn't do that in the first place. Lesson 1, don't trust buying second hand, even if you are told its fine when you point out it looks like its been stored outside for 20 years, covered in salt and rain.

    piersengine2001.JPG.e985e9512af41157d3a613c54c483c8c.JPG
    New parts ready to go together

    For those interested here is the list of kit I'd acquired over the past 8 months:

    1. Brand new block (£247 plus vat)
    2. Brand new crank (off eBay, £75! Winner)
    3. Omega Pistons
    4. Westwood cylinder liners
    5. Max Speeding Steel Rods (I know what you're thinking and I'll come to these later. £199)
    6. Mahle Tri metal race bearings
    7. TTV Racing flywheel (Looks just like the Titan R500 ultralite flywheel, but is 100g lighter, and has integral ring gear. Bonus! And it only costs £270 inc vat and delivery, another Bonus)
    8. Sabre Head 33.3 / 27.5
    9. Piper 1444 cams
    10. Turbo Sport hard anodised verniers (£120)
    11. New water and oil pumps
    12. VVC mkI block mounted coil pack
    13. Magnecor 8.5mm race leads
    14. Caterham cam cover and gold insert
    15. Uprated AP Clutch (Bought from Burton, saving £80!)

    piersengine2004.JPG.41a09ba0c0e9db35d535a551808b9af2.JPG

    Jason started the build by balancing all the components. He has his own top end digital balancing machine.

    piersengine005.JPG.f991db6e3e56fc15a8148135e6adf56a.JPG
    Crank to start... (see what I did there?)

    piersengine008.JPG.6becd1daa1e9fff4230982929fd931b6.JPG
    plus flywheel

    piersengine009.JPG.aa33a02352b9778f5ee9b173bf034fe7.JPG
    And all together

    After finishing, the balancing machine was reading 0.0 on the most sensitive setting. Vibration Free then? ;)
    The Max Speeding rods were surprising well balanced out of the box with only minor adjustment needed. These were then balanced end to end too. Jason was very impressed with the quality of the rods. Previous versions he had seen hadn't been that good, but these are the lattest DVA spec rods and were pretty much perfect. No maching to fit needed, and were dimensionally perfect. Jason uses them on his Mitsubishi and Subaru engines without issue and I think for the money they are terrific value. Now so long as they don't break, why bothter spending £1,000 on branded rods or scouring the ads for the very old single tang Rover rods? Lots of guys on Seloc use them without issue. Time will tell.

    piersengine4003.JPG.109f723a6c43eb3f78379453d12f6a36.JPG
    Engine coming together nicely

    piersengine4002.JPG.9c2fca1e2e54f00cc7acb37413136274.JPG
    Shiny...

    And finally

    2015-06-2619_29.15-1.jpg.202a881ef72ee9a20bb89df0b11c45b6.jpg
    One complete K-Series monster!

    2015-06-2619_29.16-3.jpg.3c6167d29a5997b545be04716ec6c59c.jpg

    I think Jason has done a fab job. I picked the engine up, which included a 5 page build sheet plus all my receipts etc to go in my folder. The engine had the timing marks setup for me, plus the clutch cover marked up, all ready for install.

    So, two weeks later I managed to con Andy, John (Bio) and our friend Steve to come over and help me put the new lump in. And when I say help, I mean do all the work, whilst I point a lot, criticise and make tea. Now I did make a bit of a mistake. I went to a drinks thing at some friends the night before and not satisfied with drinking at least a bottle of wine, we thought it would be a good idea to do Crystal Skull vodka shots in the kitchen before we left. Knowing that I'd be fitting the engine the next day, this was definitely not a good idea. I felt pretty rough in the moring and didn't expect things to go well.

    To be honest I was expecting to be typing about all the dramas we'd had, parts not fitting, things breaking, bits and pieces I had forgotten to order etc, but somewhat surprisingly the engine went in ever so smoothly which left us all scrathing our heads! This can't be normal? By the time we had got everyting back on, exhaust, fuel rail, plumbing etc it was 7pm. Since we'd all been at it from about 10am, we decided to leave firing it up until the morning.

    2015-07-1115_00_05.jpg.9f424c7be1cb5f46ec8081ac033b2b07.jpg

    The following morning Andy converted my loom to accept the JP Mini Timer plugs needed for the Mk1 VVC coil. (It had coil on plug previously) Again, I was expecting this to be a nightmare but actually only took about 30 minutes. We put the ECU in test fire mode to confirm it was firing correctly. My car has an EU3 loom, but I wanted to use the old style cam cover, but have it distributorless with wasted spark. This was the best solution I could come up with. And I must say I am rather pleased with the result.

    We filled it with Millers Classic running-in oil, filled the cooling system, took the plugs out and then turned it over. Jason had already primed the oil pump and said that the engine would change note just before we got pressure. After about 30 seconds of cranking it went high pitched, and sure enough the pressure came up. Now, I had the bright idea of downloading the Emerald ECU software, and an SLR500 map from their website and using the numbers as a basis for the new map for my car. After all, they are quite similarly specced. Turned out to be a completely naff idea! The SLR500 map was miles away. Had a huge fuel spike (probably compensating for some issue) and barely got the engine started. Whilst holding it at 2000 revs to ensure the cams bed in, Andy got to work. We only let it run for a minute or two as we wanted to get it under load straight away. A quick check for leaks, and we were off.

    With my left foot on the brake, and a decent amount of load we set off for the A41 again. (Sorry to all those who encountered me and thought I was driving like a nob. I wasn't actually racing you up the inside lane as you went passed, but doing some controlled runs to get the map right, and also bed the rings in!) Honest!

    First impressions? Well, the first thing I noticed was the lightweight flywheel. The engine spins up (and down) so fast, its ridiculous. Next thing was the noise. It sounds totally different. Much more throaty and definitely more "racey" for want of a better word? (eager, revvy, rortier, you get the picture)

    The new Titan RB's worked a treat, and it now ticks over at 1100 rpm smoothly. Hurrah. Jason pointed out to me that when you fit the RB's you need a special dowled stud for the head. Titan sell these but didn't tell me or supply them in the kit. Why not just charge the extra £16 and include them? Duh!

    John was following behind whilst we were mapping in case we had any dramas, and reported after our first run that there were no signs of oil burning or anything untoward. Result. After a few more miles I'll be doing a leak down test to see where we are. (As recommended by Millers). We only mapped it up to 6500 revs, as I am not sure the oil can tolerate 8000. I'll put in some semi synthetic at about 750 miles, and complete the mapping, and then put in the highly rated Fuchs Titan Pro R 15/50.

    I've now covered about 320 miles, and I have to say its getting better each time I go out in it. You can really feel the cam start to pull at about 5,000. It's got loads more torque than it had before. To sum it up in just one word, I'd have to say "Mental". Even limiting the revs to 6500 it trounces the XPower 140 unit. You barely have to make any effort at all to be going quick. I can't wait to get it run in fully and mapped.

    I'll be R500 baiting on a country road neart you soon. Watch this space

    So what have I learned on this Odyssey?

    1. Tuning is really REALLY expensive. Much more than I planned. (It helps if you don't ignore what you're spending because you know its too much. This just makes it worse)
    2. Max Speeding rods are great. (I hope I don't need to update this point in the future)
    3. Titan Roller Barrels don't have any drivability issues if they don't leak. They're awesome.
    4. Piper 1444 cams are perfectly drivable on the road if you're not planning on towing caravans
    5. Don't buy anything from Caterham. They're criminally overpriced!
    6. Listen to your engine builder implicitly
    7. Don't skimp on anything if possible. It will cost you later.
    8. Use proper running in oil or risk glazing your bores.

    Thanks for reading :)

    Massive thanks to:

    Roger Fabry at Sabre heads (I'll miss our long chats)
    Jason Langan at Hellier Performance (Fantastic work, and top bloke)
    Brian at Titan Motorsport
    Andy Hammond, John Salmon and Steve Littler whose help and patience were extraordinary.

    Piers

     

     

     

     

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    After musing over the idea for a few months outside forces gave a helping hand in making my mind up.

    The last time I drove the car I had a bit of an oil leak. Initially I thought this was related to a weak hose connection in the dry sumo system but on closer examination it proved to be a failed crank shaft oil seal.  Bugger!

    So if the engine had to come out anyway my thought was why not use this as the kick-start for the re-build.

    Anyway, yesterday (3rd July 2015) I did a 250mile round trip to drop the car off at The 7 Workshop. Chris is going to strip the car and then it goes off to Bruce for some sprucing up, before re building it.

    i have a plan for the colour scheme which is quite exciting.  I also have some engine mods planned too and possibly some other stuff

    It'll be like having a new car, I just have to wait 3 months. Shame it'll be the end of the summer when it's done, but it'll be ready for the start of 2016.

    large_image_3.jpg.277aaecab1dcc11fde99331a2891ef91.jpg

    The last few days of being a black and orange 'tigger'!

  7. Running Standard Billies all round and what looks like "Delphi pads", I have decided to upgrade to "NItrons" Via Simon Rogers, and "Ferodo pads" both front and rear of my R500k (2000).

    Booked in at PGM end of next month (July 2015) to get Nitrons fitted, camber, rake, tow adjusted properly and finally flat floored to suit little ole me  *whistle* .

    The reason for upgrades.

    Well to be brutal, the brakes are rubbish, you can stamp on them and just hope for the best, Simon has suggested we go Ferodo all round.

    The ride is suprisingly smooth but it tends to want to throw itself into the hedge, when faced with adverse cambers in the road, and i feel it wallows a bit too, So Nitrons are on order.

    I recently went out on a rather eye opening Blat down twisty roads and found i was battling with the car, to keep it from comitting suicide at each bumpy bend, (not how it should be im sure), and far far from its limits.

    Preping car for some sprinting, I feel it would benifit emmensly and make my driving alot more enjoyable too.

    Will update..

      

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    Can't access the old 7 site to send members emails. Hope it can soon be fixed

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    Thanks to everyone who came to the Palace this year to support this great event, it was good to see the club stand well attended and for my part I hope I entertained them all at the hairpin trying to beat my fastest time which I managed on the final run on Monday! Hope to see you all again next year or at various events during the summer, happy blatting *driving*

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    Just like to say,what a great runnout on saturday,and a big thanks to all who made it happen. *thumbup* 

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    Please feel free to take a look at my Build Blog, it may help some of you out during the build.

    http://caterham-capers.blogspot.co.uk/

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    Hi everyone,

    i have  recently purchased my first Caterham. It was factory built in 1998 and has the upgraded Vauxhall engine, (1.6 to 1.8). A friend of mine has given me a few details about the upgrade but I am trying to get some presise details as to exactly what Caterham changed on the engine, can anyone help out??

     

    Nimrod70

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    More to follow shortly.....

     

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    Anybody free for coming to the Board on Monday 06/04/2014? We would be ok. First time since the new year!
     

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