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Robs7
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360r idle problem

No trouble with starting 1st thing or idling right up to full temperature. If I say stop to refuel it starts ok and idles, but drive off the forecourt and stop and engine will not idle. I hold foot steady on throttle and engine hunts between 1.5k and 2.5 but not steady, take foot off throttle and engine stalls. Drive for a further .5 mile and all is ok. It appears this happens when the temp guage is between 40 and 80 once past 80 all seems ok. The last service I had no fault was found and suggested that he needs to get the necessary software to get a diognostic check. The only thing I can think is happening when temp guage reaching 80 is the thermostat probably opens but this should not cause the problem that I'm experiencing. Any help out there would be greatly appreciated.

ChrisC
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Depending on age of your 360R, your running temperature should be higher that 80C.  The standard stat is 102C, however very early version may have had the 82C stat (Late 2015).   

As for the idle problem it's difficult to say.  There is no diagnostic software, only live information from the sensors.  So to diagnose the problem a live data capture would be needed. 

That said after a restart there is a delay before the engine idles using the lambda sensor readings.  I think it's 30 seconds and the coolant has to be above 60C before the lambda compensation kicks in.  I wonder if that's what your feeling.  

Robs7
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Thanks Chris for your comments, my 7 is 2015 and the fan kicks in roughly after 80C. I do run the car with de cat and put the cat on for MOT. I now wonder if the lambda sensor has been damaged due to cat change a few times. 

If the lambda does kick in after 30 secs perhaps that is why I can drive off the forecourt when 1st starting and then plays up when I stop after a short period. Do you think it's worth changing the lambda or get live info test?

SM25T
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Unplug lambda sensor cable. If it runs fine without, replace the sensor.
ChrisC
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Is your fan kicking in at 80, sounds like a early spec.  My 360R was early spec, but it was supplied with a 102c stat, which meant the fan always ran.  
Disconnecting the lambda sensor will tell you if it's working or not (ie no change when disconnected means it's dead), but without the sensor they normally idle poorly.  But you didn't say it was idling poorly, hence why I suspected it's post start warm up phase.  
I wonder if you also have a 102 stat and a 80 fan setting, meaning your fan runs constantly? Can you take a photo of the stat and post it?  The length of the plastic hoses on the stat housing are the give-away.

When you have the fan running and the stat closed and stop, I wonder if the stat opens (without the pump running) when you switch back on you have a shock of cold coolant, causing the ECU to go back to warm up.

ChrisC
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82 vs 102 stat

Robs7
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Thanks  guys I will try tomorrow

Robs7
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Bingo I unplugged the lambda and no change to the running or idle. Temperature got to normal and still ok. I connected the lambda back gave it a few revs and engine started to hunt. So disconnected again and all seems fine. Went for a run including stopping and starting and to be honest it's the best it's been.

Thanks for all your advise Chris  but after giving some thought I've had the car for 3 yrs but only started to have this problem since last yr and nothing has changed to the car other than the de cat which I installed in the 1st year. If the lambda  is the problem why did it pass the MOT last month? Also I can say that the fan kicks in at around 90C and normal running temp is just over 80C. The fan always seems to switch on when sitting in traffic on a hot day but not normal running temp.

The question is now  1. should I replace the lambda and ditch the de cat and put cat back on.2. Is it ok to drive with the lambda disconnected. 3. What does the lambda do apart from control emissions.

Thanks also to SM25T and can say this is a great club to be part of with all this knowledge at the touch of a button.

ChrisC
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Rob, without question replace the lambda sensor, regardless of cat or not.   Without it your going to run rich (which I suppose is better than running lean).  Given you are seeing a difference when connected it sounds like the sensor isn't dead, but contaminated.  Either way it needs replacement.  It effects part throttle drivability.   The lambda sensor is ignored at higher RPM.

As for the cooling, if your fan comes on only when stuck in traffic all is good with your setup.  This wasn't the case for my car, it came on when the car was still heating up and ran constantly, at no stage did the fan switch off (until the engine was switched off).  The fan switch on temperature was below the engine thermostat temperature.  I wasn't alone in having this crazy configuration, but I have not read about it on any car since 2015. 

ChrisC
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PS Mine was a Rover Part MHK10006,  but it carried a Bosch Part Number 0 258 003 229  

Robs7
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Thanks for the info Chris