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420R Boot rattle / knocking


22daz

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2018 420R with 1000 miles

I get a knocking noise coming from the boot over bumps which my previous 7 never did. It seems marginally better with a passenger (as in not doing it as frequently) but I can't seem to find it. It sounds like the boot floor is loose but it isn't..

I have looked for anything like the fuel pipe tapping on the underside of the boot floor and secured the handbrake cables.

Greased the ball joints in the drop links

Everything obvious seems tight, it isn't the hood sticks or washer bottle.

I have put neoprene all around the boot floor and secured it. Neoprene underneath where it is close to the diff.

Any ideas of what else I can try?

 

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I chased a rattle/knock from the rear end of my car for a while, tried all the things you mentioned. Turned out to be the rear brake pads rattling in the calipers. I could move the pads up and down in calipers by just moving them with my fingers poked through the spokes of the wheel.

They bounce up and down going over a bump giving a clanking noise.

Still haven't got round to fixing it because I want to switch out my copper brake lines to be flexible hoses and that project hasn't got to the top of my list yet. I'm expecting to find the spring clips are not installed correctly but others may have better suggestion.

Most passengers didn't notice it until I told them about it, and then they would hear it too. So not particularly obvious.

Just a thought.

John

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To test this problem, you don't event need to remove anything, just park without the handbrake, and through the wheel check to see if the pads are loose, if you can move the pad with you finger then it might be the source of your rattle.   Only do this when the pads are cold *wink*

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That's sounds similar as I can't pin it down to a particular side. The fronts make a noise as the pins rattle going over bumps so it could something similar on the back whilst they are still bedding in. 

I swapped the rear copper pipe for braided braided hose a couple of weeks before I sold my old car but that's a fairly easy job for you. Although I'm not sure if you can get longer ones for an SV from CC as my S3 were already a tight fit for length.

 

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I had a buzz/vibration/resonance in what I thought was the boot area of my R400. Same, it reduced marginally with a pax in.

Turned out to be the pax seat allen key mush head bolts attaching the seat assembly to the sliders were not tight enough!

From experience just check tightening/nipping up the rear wing attachments & the rear exhaust bracket to body bolt can relieve the symptoms of vibrations from the boot area.

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Rocking the car backwards and forwards by a few inches I could hear a click coming from the inner rear pad.  These are the ones that are least bedded in so warrants further investigation when I get a mo.. I will have a look to see if I can do anything with the tension.

 

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"Been there done that" with this one.   My problems started when my original kit supplied reconditioned ford calipers where replaced under warranty with Caterham branded new items after a leak.   I tried everything, new pads (replacing 100 mile old pads), new anti rattle shims, and even hand brake cable adjustment (which I know is a bad idea), but it didn't stop the Delphi pad rattling in the Caterham branded rear calipers.    The solution was to bend the anti rattle spring on the pad so it actually made contact with the caliper anti rattle shim.    If you compare the Delphi pads and the AP pads on the Caterham parts website you will see the AP pads have a different profile to the anti rattle sping, so the problem is limited to Delphi pads in Caterham branded rear calipers.   

AP 

https://caterhamparts.co.uk/calipers-pads-discs/593-rear-brake-pads-set-of-4.html?search_query=rear+pad&results=175

Delphi 

https://caterhamparts.co.uk/calipers-pads-discs/668-brake-pads-rear-use-with-4-pot-front-brakes.html?search_query=rear+pad&results=175

You don't need to create the same shape, just make them less quarter to three and more ten to two for the rattle to go.  

Obviously if your car was built by caterham get them to do it under warranty, or if you built it yourself then its a simple job but you will need a caliper wind back tool.  

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That's probably it Chris, not much of a job to put a bit of pre-load into those.

I intend to put some braided hoses on the calipers as I did on my last car, but that will keep me happy for the moment especially if it stops the knocking.

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In case anyone's interested, I've uploaded a video of my rear pad slapping in the caliper here:

(Note: this is an unlisted video, so you won't be able to search for it on YouTube, you'll need to use the link above)

John

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I'm not sure mine is quite that bad but it's the same noise I got by rocking the car forward and back an inch. I think mine are the inside pads which are now the last ones to bed in as I still have 50% honing on the inner face of the rear discs. Thanks for sharing the vid!

 

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