6 speed box - Not able to engage reverse whilst engine running

[Midas]

As it says in the title. I have a cable operated clutch (yr 2000 K series) and a six speed box. I can select all forward gears with ease, however when the engine is running I cannot get reverse cleanly without graunching the gear - even though the clutch pedal is to the floor. It has got worse. over the past few months.

The gearlever spring action is quite stiff, so I will look at that, but even with the spring fully compressed I cannot get reverse cleanly.

I have read that the clutch is not adjustable so I am fearing it is clutch drag and time for a new clutch.

However thought I would get other opinions before I go to the effort of pulling out the engine and box.

The car has covered 38 000 miles and I assume the clutch is original.

 

 

 

 

[ScottR400D]

All I would suggest is to put it into a forward gear, keep the clutch depressed and then move from that gear into reverse. 

If it still ‘graunches’ then it does look like clutch drag. 

If I go from neutral, clutch released, to depress clutch and go into reverse quickly I would expect a graunch. Everything in the box is moving, no synchro in reverse. 

Going into a forward gear first stops the box internals rotating so reverse should engage cleanly. If it doesn’t it indicates that clutch drag is keeping the internals spinning. 

IMO. 

[ECR]

Sounds like clutch drag to me ... I'd try adjusting the cable before pulling the engine out.

[John Vine]

It might also be a failing cable.  If adjustment doesn't help, take out the cable and test the inner for smooth operation and examine for broken strands.

How old is the cable?

JV

[Midas]

The cable is still the original - so i will have a look at that - all things to do before the dreaded engine out job!

[sean b]

I just had the exact same problem as you described, hopefully the remedy is the same as mine ?

Remove passengers seat,

Remove tunnel cover,

you now have access to the gear leaver,unscew the 3 retaining bolts and lift out the gear-lever assembly.

You can now strip down the assembly,clean all parts paying particular attention to the shaft (polish dia with wet n dry paper) and lubricate spherical bearing.

Rebuild , hopefully the unit will now be freed up.

Now look down into the gear selector assembly and you will see a black plastic saddle, remove the saddle and check for wear ,if you need to replace item (available from road and race)

Rebuild and hopefully all will now be smooth and easy to operate 

Good luck Sean b

[Jonathan Kay]

That's a relief, I couldn't understand why selector problems weren't in the suggestions.

Jonathan

[ECR]

But check the cable first..

[ScottR400D]

Why would a selector issue make it graunch, only in reverse?

[revilla]

I can't see how it could be selector either? Happy to be educated though.

[Midas]

Thanks for the advice - back from a windy and wet Silverstone so will look at this today!

[Midas]

Update and further request for advice - I've replaced the clutch cable - the old one seemed OK, and moved freely but the wire had worn a groove in the brass threaded area in the pedal box so the new one is now on. No difference in feel.

I have taken out the gear lever assembly, but a question for Sean B - I cannot see any way it strips down. Mine looks like a sealed unit.

Everything at the gear lever end of the gearbox is 'dry'. There is no sign anything like grease has been near to any of the parts at any time.

The black plastic bridge is also in good condition.

Anything I might have missed before I contemplate the clutch being taken out*banghead*

 

[sean b]

 The unit is held together using circlips .remove top and bottom clips to expose shaft ,all will become apparent on strip down.Lubricate unit and selector fork with grease prior to rebuild.

sean b

[Midas]

I seem to have a gear lever which is different to those mentioned above and in the Caterham website. I have posted two images below. There are no visible circlips and everything is tightly sealed. Anyone know how you dismantle one of these levers?

 

 

[Midas]

For future reference, I spoke to Caterham this morning. The gear lever assembly shown above is a standard Ford component which was used before Caterham moved to using a quaife-sourced item. The Ford item cannot be disassembled.

 

[DJ.]

The Ford unit is nicely sealed unlike the new one. When I greased my new version, I added a rubber gaiter to stop grit and water falling into top.

[sean b]

As your unit has a gaiter fitted we could assume that although the unit is dry that there is no ingress of dirt etc.

So is it possible to peel back the gaiter and submerge the unit in a bath of Wd40 or similar to penetrate into the bearing and hopefully free up the shaft and spring?

[Midas]

Final update - the problem turned out to be the cable. Although the original cable looked good closer inspection showed some advanced signs of wear. new cable fitted and probelm fixed.

[John Vine]

Good news, and thanks for the update.

JV

[Geoff Brown]

Would prefer a worn clutch cable than having to out the engine & gearbox for a U/S clutch slave cylinder which is the case on later Duratec cars.

[ECR]

Good news 

[grumpy the 7th]

Midas, hi.

You say you channged the clutch cable on the 29th July and the problem was still the same, you say you've changed it again today and its working ok now. Was the new cable faulty somehow or have you simply re-adjusted it?

[John Alston]

I had a similar problem some years ago with intermittent gear selection difficulties.  It turned out to be the needle roller bearing in the crankshaft nose breaking up and grabbing hold of the first motion shaft of the gearbox.  So even with the clutch depressed the gearbox internals were still turning.

[ScottR400D]

Good question Grumpy, though I read it that he’d changed the cable and it still felt the same but he hadn’t then actually run the car. In the event the cable change did solve things.