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7 wonders of th...
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Mark,

Since I run a NA Duratec thats a tricky one, however with the photos Mark (IOM) took there is room to creatively engineer a solution, yes it's tight - but possible

Wether you believe that or not is irrelevant.

 

Mark w
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Neil

Ive just measured the gap and its about 25mm, ideally the pipe would point backwards but if it did that it would prevent the top bolt of the thermostat housing being put in place .The gap gets smaller as you move towards the back of the car as the intercooler pipework runs at an oblique angle .Its all very tight .

 

Ive just come across this which adds a vent to the rad top but otherwise appears to follow my thinking , the header tank is plumbed into the radiator bottom hose .  

 

 

7 wonders of th...
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Interesting.....

Could just be poorly drawn but the orange bypass hose does not go into the bypass pipe by the pump (the block mounted pipe) this would appear to be the pipe adjacent to the 'P' in the word pump....

instead it seems to indicate that this orange hose goes to the 16mm inlet on the plastic OE stat housing.... 

Also assuming this is using the OE plastic stat housing, plumbing the expansion bottle return (green) into the 32mm rad return hose with a T is also wrong as this circuit is a dead end untill the stat start to open...... the bottle return should be plumbed into the 16mm plastic as this is a open circuit irrespective of stat position therefore the bottle and or heater always have a flow circuit.

 

Mark w
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I think the bypass is just badly drawn as the text covers the principle correctly . 
 

I know what you mean about the expansion bottle connection but provided the system is filled methodically , maybe with a temporary air bleed on the bypass circuit it should be ok given the alum housing seems to bleed a bit on its own . In any event it is a solution to returning more hot water to the block when the thermostat is partly open which may keep temperature up a bit .

 

if anyone manages to successfully modify the thermostat housing please post .

 

 

Titanium7
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Just back from Oakmere following the first 1000m service. I asked to investigate two things.

1. The 'Rev Hanging' when changing gear. Response was it was the Supercharger air induction still under pressure as there is no dump valve. (Not sure about this, I have a theory it might be in the mapping to burn up unused fuel)

2. The Over cooling. It was sitting at an indicated 50C at 3000rpm all the way there and only rising when at traffic lights. Response was the thermostat was constantly open or, there was no thermostat! They are contacting CC for permission to investigate further under warranty. 

Driving 'The Fat One' Driving

Mark w
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Re item 1 i found that this went away when i had carefully set the throttle body to bleed the correct amount of air at idle. The throttle bodies come to CC pre set but in my case it was too far open causing the ECU to hunt around as it was trying to maintain the set idle speed .

For anyone thats got Easymap the factory proceedure was:- Remove the throttle cable ( or slacken it right off ) , fully close the throttle by easing off the stop , set the TPS voltage to  0.40V ,open the throttle  to 0.54V .This is supposed to give the correct flow of air at idle with your foot off the pedal , you might find you need a tad less air to avoid an idle speed thats high .

When i looked at the map, load site 0 was 0.57V so having set the correct air flow i tweeked the TPS position to accord with the first load site so that the initial throttle pedal movement engaged the correct portion of the map. 

 

Keep us updated on point 2 

Mark w
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Having found a manufacturer who can resolve the rear water outlet design requirements i  am still hunting for a solution  for the expansion bottle connection into the thermostat housing .Given the space constraints and the position of the existing welding 

what do the engineers amongst us think about drilling and tapping the aluminium thermostat housing to take a Banjo connection for the expansion bottle connection ?

Space constraints mean that a 16mm ID pipe connector  is out of the question but this might fit . 3/8 NPT into the housing with an AN8 connector that would take a barbed hose connector .

7 wonders of th...
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As previous stated 1/2" hose will be fine even for a heater arrangement,though banjos do reduce flow a little,

plenty of reduced hoes in straight and elbow format to form all the usual source to take the size down from the bottle too.

You can still buy Ford 90 degree water elbows on ebay, just drill and tapped the rear housing and your away, 

you could get a -8 male welded onto the ally stat housing and get the little area inside welded up at the same time them use a compat 90 degree fitting which can be removed to access the housing fixing this is preferable as will be marginal on material for tapping as some has been machined away on the inside for the extra bleed (the part you need to blank off)

Easily available form the people who make radaitors and coolers etc - Ralloy, AH Fabrication, Brise etc they will certainly be one near you. 

 

 

aerobod
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That should do the job. Will probably need to spot-face the surface to remove a bit of the weld next to the main radiator hose outlet on the housing so that the banjo attachment bolt can seat with a copper washer. As it is for the expansion bottle, the flow restriction using the 3/8" NPT shouldn't be a problem, as it only really needs to be bigger than the 5/16" bleed hose to prevent any flow constriction.

James

Mark w
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you could get a -8 male welded onto the ally stat housing and get the little area inside welded up at the same time them use a compat 90 degree fitting which can be removed to access the housing fixing this is preferable as will be marginal on material for tapping as some has been machined away on the inside for the extra bleed (the part you need to blank off)

 

ive sent the dimension restraint info to a number of suppliers and as you cannot use a screwed elbow fitting you need to fit an adaptor into the housing and then fit an elbow to it , even the compact elbows are too big to fit in the space . That's why I started looking at banjo fittings ( on the suggestion of one of the suppliers )