Adjusting Tillets & Swapping Cage for Bar

16 posts / 0 new
Last post
robsandbach
Offline
Last seen: 1 week 3 days ago
Joined: 22/08/2019
Adjusting Tillets & Swapping Cage for Bar

Hello everyone,

After my first track day in the 7 I've decided to give the Tillets a second chance as a) they didn't seem to bother me driving to and from the track (1 hour each way) and b) I like being able to use the 6 point harness my academy car has fitted to it and hadn't considered that wouldn't be possible with the leather seats.

One problem I did have, which I've read is common, is my head being pushed forward slightly with my helmet on. I wanted to check that inserting these spacers under the front mounting bolts is a good first step to resolving that one and ask if anyone has any advice on how many might be required to angle the seat sufficiently? I wouldn't know whether to start with 2 or 10! I am assuming I would fit these spacers between the  "rail" and the floor on the furthest forward bolt on each side. Given I always have my seat all the way back, might this be a good time to just bolt the seat to the floor  for a bit of extra head clearance. 

Particularly pertinent because I am also strongly considering swapping the roll cage I have for an FIA rollbar. Given I am primarily using the car for non competitive track days and the odd trip through Wales I think I am comfortable with the increased risk as a tradeoff for ease of ingress/egress. I understand that I will need to "remove the rear suspension" to access a bolt for this - does anyone have a few tips as to what exactly that involves so I am not going in blind on Monday?

Thank you all as usual for any help :)

 

Aeroscreens
Aeroscreens's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 hours 22 min ago
Joined: 17/04/2014

I removed the runners and my Tillett is bolted to the floor, without taking the seat out I can't confirm how many spacers I used but it would be much nearer to 10 than 2. My spacers are between the Tillett and the aluminium box section.

As my car is a 1992 version I'll leave it someone else to explain about removing dampers as I'm pretty sure its a different set-up on a newer car.

www.C7CAT.com

Member since March 1998

Jonathan Kay
Jonathan Kay's picture
Online
Last seen: 22 sec ago
Joined: 17/04/2014

Lots in the archives on all of those.

I'd search for:

  1. The risks of helmets near bars. Don't compromise on this. 
  2. Adjusting Tilletts, there are some numbers but I couldn't find a factor. And the problem of the bolt angle if you remove the mount.
  3. The right type of socket for the bolt with the thin head. You may need to buy or grind something suitable before you start.

Jonathan

Graham Howard
Graham Howard's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 week 4 days ago
Joined: 17/04/2014

To access the bolts holding the cage you will need to remove the dampers. The top damper  bolt is accessed at the corner of the bulkhead behind the seats.

This will allow access the the bolts going up into the cage.  On an imperial car these will have thin heads and you need to be careful to use a socket which fully engages. On a metric chassis there is more space and the bolt head is not thinned down.

Make sure you get the right FIA bar for your chassis. A metric bar will fit an imperial chassis but not the other way round.

StevehS3
StevehS3's picture
Offline
Last seen: 20 min 55 sec ago
Joined: 17/04/2014

 Be careful refitting the lower damper bolts. They are easy to cross thread.

robsandbach
Offline
Last seen: 1 week 3 days ago
Joined: 22/08/2019

Some great advice, thank you. I've read about grinding down socket to remove the chamfered edge - I'll work on that.

Johnathan - could you elaborate on the helmet near bars comment as it sounds relevant. At present my helmet rests against the "padding" (it seems as hard as the steel)  in the roll bar. Without that padding it would rest free! That was another reason to get rid of the roll cage to be honest.

At 5' 10" I had assumed the FIA roll cage would provide sufficient clearance?

Jonathan Kay
Jonathan Kay's picture
Online
Last seen: 22 sec ago
Joined: 17/04/2014

As discussed here.

Jonathan

robsandbach
Offline
Last seen: 1 week 3 days ago
Joined: 22/08/2019

Thank you, sounds like another good reason to get rid of the roll cage as I won't be wearing a helmet on the road. 

Thank you for the advice, no doubt I will report back. I'll try 6 or so washers initially I think and bolt directly to the floor!

Jonathan Kay
Jonathan Kay's picture
Online
Last seen: 22 sec ago
Joined: 17/04/2014

...and bolt directly to the floor!

Previous discussions including that warning about the bolt angle and stress.

Jonathan

7 wonders of th...
Offline
Last seen: 3 hours 2 min ago
Joined: 17/04/2014

Why not keep the cage and run lowered floors, this seats you in a better position, and allows more adjustment of the seats and allows the benefits of a cage.

Having seen one members off where the cage enabled his passenger to retain his head and another's near miss where they were lucky not to loose there heads via a barbed wire fence I would not run without a cage now.

There are many many cars out there where the drivers head when running with a conventional roll bar is too high, this is checked for competition yet people seem happy to run like this on the road.....

Put this into perspective anything solid is going to damage your head, and were driving open topped cars so what ever set up you run you need to take precautions.

For my money lowered floors, correctly fitted 6 point harness and an SLR cage offer the best protection.

 

7 wonders of th...
Offline
Last seen: 3 hours 2 min ago
Joined: 17/04/2014

Where abouts are you located ?

- welcome to try mine for reference