Apollo tank installation

[rich71]

I am about to fit my apollo tank, so far i have riveted the lower bracket and a top bracket to the chassis, the assembly guide indicates some self adhesive foam strip needs to be put on these but it wasn't supplied with the kit, can i use the same foam strip as would be used for the nosecone/bonnet as i have some of this?

Also when i say i have used a top bracket, i actually have 2 in the kit but can't find any reference to a second one or where it would go...any ideas?

I have a fair amount of clearance between the block and alternator (EU2) and have run the pipes through without problems, do i need to dremel/file the web on the block anyway?

I'm going to use threadlock on all the threads and put as much together as i can off the car to tighten things up properly, any advice on the order of doing this? ie assemble the sandwich plate with pipes on the attach to tank or assemble tank with pipes and then attach to sandwich plate?

Any help appreciated

Richard 

[The_ASH]

There is/was a guide written many years ago on how to... it was published in Low Flying and is also here on this site somewhere, however after much searching I can't find it, I'm sure someone will point it out soon.

edit: located it elsewhere:- http://sevener.fr/images_articles/moteur/apollo.pdf

[rich71]

yes i have seen that one, unfortunately it doesn't mention the areas of concern

[Bricol]

I fitted a second hand one some years ago and got no brackets ;-)  I believe the top used to be secured via tie-wrap.  I made my own from two rubber lined pipe supports - rather large around the tank, and somewhat smaller around the chassis tube, welded together.

Foam sounds okay - I used a Renault 5 (original shape) gear change rubber bush to support my tank - which doesn't help you ;-)

Don't use thread lock!   The hoses seal on the male/female cones.  I actually use an anti-seize on my pipe nuts to allow me to get them undone in the future!  And even then, some years later, I needed the filter housing in the vice and 4ft lengths of pipe on my wrenches to get them undone!

I would certainly assemble the hoses to the adaptor plate off the car once you know where they are going - not much room to tighten them in-situ.

When doing the hoses up on the tank, grip the steel adaptor fitting with one wrench and do the hose up with another -don't rely on the tank resisting the tightening torque - it won't end happily!

I used pipe sealant in addition to the rubber o-rings on the fittings into the adaptor plate that goes on the filter housing when I refitted it this week, as they always leaked a touch.  The adaptor (or mine is) designed to use o-rings rather than dowty seals.

I used dowty washers under the fittings into the tank - and they have never leaked.

I relieved the block, rounding all edges, just to avoid any chance of the hoses being rubbed through in use.  Don't forget that you will need to move the alternator in to get the old belt off (unless it breaks) and to get a new belt on.  In fact, if you are being clever, you would feed a spare belt down the hoses before you fit them to the tank, just in-case.  I've not had one fail in 16yrs use though - changed it once just in-case.

[rich71]

Thanks for all the info, ws going to use the threadlock only to make sure threads dont come lose but sounds lke they should be prety tight and unlikely to do so anyway

Will round off edges also

 

Thanks

[Silver Machine]

Central heating pipe/hot water pipe insulation works well.

[John Vine]

There is/was a guide written many years ago on how to...

Yes, that was my LF article from 2001 (that long ago?  Good grief!).  It now resides in our wonderful new archive.

Follow Bricol's advice and you'll be fine. Definitely attach the sandwich plate hoses prior to fitting.  The sleeved adaptor makes a very good support when held firmly in a vice. 

You might want to think about fitting a one-way valve in the hose between Apollo and cam cover.  This stops the oil draining back to the sump when you switch off (with oil-pressure benefits on starting).

JV

[rich71]

Thankds for all the advice, didnt get far as went windsurfing instead

 

[rich71]

Forgot to add an update for my installation, i went through the advice given/previous articles etc and the installation was completed with no oil leaks...and yes i have driven it since (around 1000 miles including one track day)

I took pictures of each stage if anyone is interested and is wanting further clarification of the tasks involved and what to expect the outcome to look like.

[John Vine]

Well done!

Would you be willing to combine your photos and tasks involved into a Technical Guide to be published on the club website?  I'm sure other members would value that.

JV

[rich71]

yes i certainly could do that John

[John Vine]

Excellent!  I'm sure the result will be much better than my witterings of long ago.

JV

[CharlesElliott]

You only need one bracket, I don't know why they include 2 (I think I had two in 2004 as well). Yes, the intent is just to use a short piece of the foam that comes for the bonnet. I would also put foam in a circle around the lower mounting place to avoid direct contact between the aluminium of the tank and the bracket.

I wouldn't use threadlock, they are hydrualic compression fittings and don't need it.