Arch gritblast and powder coat my BDR - any advice please? Strip Pics here

21 posts / 0 new
Last post
anthonym
anthonym's picture
Online
Last seen: 1 min 24 sec ago
Joined: 17/04/2014
Arch gritblast and powder coat my BDR - any advice please? Strip Pics here

They seem great :-)

pics here, stripped BDR:

https://www.lotus7.club/blogs/bdr-strippinged-go-arch-tomorrow

 

She is 32 years old.

In prospect of having

internal skins also powder coated, I gather this is now standard procedure

plus

honeycombs to be added, a safety thing

MAYBE modify the wishbones so they do not need the bolt-on mod, BUT does that affect her originality?

Going to upgrade from rear drums to disks, using the Caterham Cars upgrade for that purpose, which I have had "in stock" since about 2004.

anthony

Dr. Evil
Dr. Evil's picture
Online
Last seen: 42 sec ago
Joined: 06/09/2019

32 years!  nice project!

Personally, if I was doing a no-expense-spared resto and had the time, I wouldn't powdercoat the chassis.  It looks great, but it tends to brittle, chip and flake and creating hidden water traps between the powdercoat and the bare metal; leading to hidden corrosion.  My 10 year old car which has mostly dry miles on it has powdercoat flaking here and there  which I have to stay on top of.

I'd go with a professional 2K spray, or use a brush with epoxy mastic, POR15 or even hammerite.  I think that would last pretty much forever and patch easier even if a little less cosmetically pretty.

Haven't heard of powdercoating the aluminium skins.  Is that new?

 

anthonym
anthonym's picture
Online
Last seen: 1 min 24 sec ago
Joined: 17/04/2014

Yes I think so, Phil (Arch) says it stops the ally corrosion progress. Rob ((Ratrace) mentioned it is now standard procedure (I didn't ask if he meant for his projects or generally). 
 

My only real question at present is whether updating the wishbones so that the bolt-on upgrade is not required is stepping away from original too much, or is an acceptable chassis manufacturer correction of what they should have done in the first place. I fear this is personal preference in the end. 

anthony

TomB
Offline
Last seen: 1 hour 30 min ago
Joined: 17/04/2014

I had the inside of my side skins powder coated black when Arch reskinned mine earlier this year.  Aside from making the engine bay look very smart, it should largely prevent the steel-ali bi-metallic corrosion that occurs on the side panels. Arch charged something like £100 for the additional powder coating.  I looked at having the rear panel done, but that would have added the same again due to the rear panels being more fiddly to do.  

anthonym
anthonym's picture
Online
Last seen: 1 min 24 sec ago
Joined: 17/04/2014

That sounds good also for the grot trap?

TomB
Offline
Last seen: 1 hour 30 min ago
Joined: 17/04/2014

Indeed, it should.  But on its own it wont stop wet and grot, which is why I've just ordered some black ali from eBay to make some grot trap covers to attach to the footboxes.   

anthonym
anthonym's picture
Online
Last seen: 1 min 24 sec ago
Joined: 17/04/2014

that sounds like a very good idea, having just seen the pictures of the contents of my grot traps - in my car that has not been used since 2004.

anthonym
anthonym's picture
Online
Last seen: 1 min 24 sec ago
Joined: 17/04/2014

I have been wondering if a long nose snout on a (Aldi's best) compressed air gun might clean out grot traps, any idea?

Molecular--Bob
Offline
Last seen: 10 hours 27 min ago
Joined: 17/04/2014

I think it would dry them, but not remove any solids that have built up there, and its those that hold the water. Shields sound like a good idea if you can design them to stop chunks but still have a bit of air circulation to allow the area to dry out.

anthonym
anthonym's picture
Online
Last seen: 1 min 24 sec ago
Joined: 17/04/2014

How about suction?

Tazio
Tazio's picture
Offline
Last seen: 31 min 57 sec ago
Joined: 17/04/2014
  • Anthony, re front suspension, when I rebuilt my BDR, earlier this year, I built it as per original, all new wishbones, cast top links, trunnions, new spax shocks and springs etc.  When I had the car set up, the offside camber was 27 minutes +ve which couldn't be adjusted out ( chatted with Bruce at Arch, as he'd fully rebuilt chassis and provided the wishbones, his belief was the machining on the replacement cast top links was known to be poor).  I ended up putting the later full top wishbone on, including later arb set up too. It's lost a bit of originality, but the car drives better, and I have all the original bits for when it will be sold.