Re visit all the earthing points and give them a clean and tighten include under the scuttle
If Derek from CC hasn't yet come up with a puff of smoke, here are a few stupid thoughts from me............ probably of no help whatsoever.
On my Sigma kit, when you switch the ignition on, the oil pressure gauge needle comes to life and positions off the needle stop. The temp gauge remains on the stop. Your car seems to be doing the opposite. Are the factory installed gauges in their correct holes and not cross wired behind the dash? Unlikely but if nobody asks etc. etc.
What happens at your gauges if you disconnect the Temp Sender at the submarine? Ditto the Oil Pressure Sender at the push pull that connects the sender lead to the engine loom?
Thanks for the tips - will check them out.
Latest update .. I think the current seems consistent and strong. I've hooked up the rear lights and they work as expected. The dash lights work fine as well. So overall, I think the electrics on the whole are ok, but is something a bit dodgy on these guages. The heater works as expected.
So tomorrow, will go through all the fuses to makes sure they are ok, tighten and check earthing points, look at submarine, and the oil pressure sender.
I suspect the temperature maybe related to an air bubble. When I filled up the coolant and it took much less than expected and then this morning the coolant tank was the same. However when I Came back in the afternoon, it had dropped drmatically - so I suspect a large air pocked may have come out.
Thanks as always for the help!
Did you find anything interesting on the electrical leads?
Earth for the instruments is at the left hand end of the dashboard, bolted to the windscreen wiper motor bracket.
Suggest you check all the earths though, ensure that there is connection with metal. In some cases that means filing off the powder coat.
Remember if the gauges sweep is 3/4’s of the gauge it’s a CAN bus gauge (unlike the conventional 1/4 sweep gauges). The 1/4 sweep gauges are more effected by poor earthing. I don’t have a wiring diagram for the 3/4 sweep gauges, so not sure if the signal is coming from the Taco or ECU, either way your going to need more than a multimeter to diagnose the CAN gauges.
As it’s a new build I would let CC look at them during PBC. It won’t be the first kit supplied with wiring faults, mine had wiring problems with the ignition switch and no wiring at all to the start switch.
I went through and checked all earths and all look fine. It's only the petrol guage which isn't moving at all, so thats the only one I think may potentially have these issues. I fired her up again and took her for a quick blast around the private road I live on -which is fair to say was interesting!
The guages didn't change at all, so I'm at a loss now, and think it's probably best for the PBC to look at these. The car blew white smoke for a while which I think was just steam as it didn't hang around, and had a really strong hydrocarbon odour too. I noticed this morning though when I dropped the kids off to school, my 1 series BMW had the same odour (it's pretty new) so I'm unduly botheredabout that. Worst thing was though, the bloody cycle wing fell off! I attached using Sikaflex, and gave it 72 hours to dry, but for some reason it just hasn't bonded. So I'm thinking aout going down the bighead fastener route - currently messaging them about buying some in low volume.
Fantastic to get it out on the road though - the speedo / rev guages worked fine and all the other electrics are working as expected. Although I never went over about 15 mph and 2k RPM, could already feel the rawness of the car and the connection between driver and road which I experienced on the test. Can't wait to get it through PBC / IVA / DVLA and take it for the first proper blat.
Worst thing was though, the bloody cycle wing fell off! I attached using Sikaflex, and gave it 72 hours to dry, but for some reason it just hasn't bonded.
I used Sikaflex 521. It was only the left one which came off, the right one still feels stuck fast.
Both surfaces were sanded to make a roughish surface. I intitally put on a long length on top of the stays then once I had them in position I filled up the sides to make a more thorough job of it.
It's been around 3-8 degrees where I live. As the right one still feels stuck fast, I may just try and reglue it, but obviously the worst thing that could happen is that one or both fail during IVA.
I'd recommend the full sausage roll.
Both surfaces were sanded to make a roughish surface.
Did you remove the paint or powdercoat from the metal stay?
And can you tell at which layer it failed?