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Brake bleeder kit


glasgow

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Never changed the brake fluid myself but heard it is an "easy" DIY job. Had a look on line for the bleeder kit and the price varies from £5-200. Some comes with pump and some with gauge.  I wonder if someone could please recommend a good brake bleeder kit (one man)  for use on the Seven and may be also the tintop. 

 

Regards

 

Ahmed

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I'm very happy with the Gunson Eezibleed. NB Club discount.

I also use a valved tube on the nipples, see Alcester Racing 7s.

And, as I learned on BlatChat, it's a good idea not to let the topping up fluid get into the air reservoir.

Previous discussions with other recommendations and most of the problems that you might just encounter.

Jonathan

PS: Some experts advocate negative pressure systems, but I'm not sure why.

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Another vote for an Eezibleed as a good value for money tool for a fluid change. As others have said, never let the reservoir level drop to the point of drawing air into the system as it may get trapped in the rear calipers, probably in the hand brake self adjuster. If you need to bleed a system from dry then having a vacuum system to suck rather than a pressure system to blow makes all the difference, but they aren't as readily available.

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Thank you all.

Have been reading about it and viewing some videos. I am actually now more inclined to do the 2 men pedal pumping method. It appears more straight forward, more effective and less likely to fail. I will get help from SWMBO or one of my boys.

 

Jonathan and Pikeyboy suggested the valved tube. Halfords sells these:

http://www.halfords.com/workshop-tools/tools/hand-tools/europat-vizibleed-brake-and-clutch-bleeding-kit

http://www.halfords.com/motoring/engine-oils-fluids/brake-clutch-fluid/europat-vizibleed-bleed-aid

 

I understand I can use the valved tube with the pedal pump method. But not really sure how the valve work. Does the valve prevent air from being sucked in? Did some Google and Youtube and seen Alcester racing but it was not clear how does it work. I only found one video in French which I didn't understand a single word *smile*

Can someone please describe how to use the valved tube.

I also read the pedal method is not good for old cars as the master seal is old and fragile therefore when fully depressing the brake pedal the master seal may be damaged during this extended movement. Is this true? my car is 15 years old.

 

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Can someone please describe how to use the valved tube.

When the positive pressure comes off and the pistons return home it's undesirable to get air coming back into the system at the nipple. As elie says in #7 above you can stop that happening by keeping the free end of the bleeding tube below the surface of the liquid in the receiving container.

The valved tube has the same effect. The dispute is over whether it makes it easier.

Jonathan

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Jonathan: is there a real valve in it? it looks to me it is just a soft black tube attached to a hard clear tube.

 

Or is it you just kink the black tube manually to stop the fluid/air going in the back in the reverse direction? ie instead of tightening the nipple bleeder you kink the tube?

 

David: that would be good to have your expertise. 

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I have used the Visibleed tube that attaches to the nipple, there is a valve in it and it does prevent fluid returning into the system when you raise the pedal. But I didn't like it for two reasons: 1 air can get back into the system by passing around the nipple threads when it is unscrewed, and 2. There is pressure left in the Visibleed tube so fluid come out when you take the tube off the nipple.

I now use a Visbleed tube on the nipple end, but with the valve removed and the end under some fluid in an old milk bottle.

I always used to use the old two man system of open nipple, pump pedal and hold, close nipple, release pedal and repeat. Now my daughters have grown up and don't want to help, I use the Esibleed with the bottle empty and the spare tyre pressurised to about 18psi. It is definitely the easiest method, I only have to top up the reservior regularly and occasionally pump up the spare *smile*

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I've used a simple piece of rubber tube that fits over the bleed nipple with a couple of slits in the wall of the tube at one end (and a small rivet to plug the end of it).  You might call it crude but it works well, and I've never had a problem with it using the two handed method (one person pumping the brake pedal, the other opening and shutting the bleed nipple at the appropriate time). 

Think I bought it from Halfords or somewhere similar years ago.  It does the job but does need two people.

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... is there a real valve in it? it looks to me it is just a soft black tube attached to a hard clear tube.

I don't know that model. The Q and As on the website say that there is a ball valve in the tube, but that it doesn't work very well.

The receiver in the Alcester Racing 7's picture has a magnet on the side. I think that there's a Sealey product like that. I've only just realised how helpful that would be if you were bleeding a car that was high above the floor.

Jonathan

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Glasgow, without checking I couldn't say but I will check this evening (if I remember - off out almost as soon as I get home).  I'll try and post a photo but honestly, it's a very simple/crude device that works.  As stated previously, I bought it from a car accessories shop and didn't make it myself.  The 'rivet' in the end stays put whereas a homemade version might not work so well (I could well imagine that the rivet might pop out of a homemade one).  The hose is a snug fit but not excessively tight fit on a bleed nipple.

Ezzer

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Better very late than never, (but I doubt you'll think it was worth the wait) here is the image of the brake bleeding hose I promised.  Like I said it's very simple, the bore is about 3mm, and the hose is about 275mm long (c11" in old speak).  You can see the rivet and one of the slits in the hose is just visible. Hope that helps!Brakebleedinghose.JPG.8165f4ea0a852638d5bedf1b8e20f75c.JPG

Ezzer

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If you have a glamorous assistant with you there is no need to buy any 'gadgets'. A length of clear tube and a jamjar is all you need. It is as easy as keeping the hose submersed in fluid in the jar, open the bleed nipple, press the brake pedal fully, lock the bleed nipple, release the pedal and repeat until clean, bubble free fluid flows through. Do all corners. Now go to the pub and have two 'free' pints.

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  • 2 weeks later...
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I've always done my brakes the old way with an assistant, usually one of the kids doing the pedal pushing and me playing with the nipples. Currently due to my off-springs now being otherwise occupied (or the other side of the planet) I decided to buy a Gunson's Eezibleed, cheap enough and seem to be recommended .... but it just goes to prove there's still plenty of crap imported from China. No issues with the bottle or sealing the cap to the master cylinder, but the tyre valve attachment is no better than something out of a Christmas cracker, at best. Not a chance of getting it to seal on the tyre, the result being no pressure, so no easy bleed. Why is it that most mountain bike hand and track pumps are very good quality yet vehicle foot pumps and certainly the Eezibleed are 2p pressed steal crap. Looks like I'll need to cut a better quality one off something else. Or are there any other suggestions?

Rant over.

Stu.

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