Gibbbo Posted September 19, 2017 Share Posted September 19, 2017 My brake lights have stopped working on my sigma engined academy 7 can anyone advise me what to check for.thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Jonathan Kay Posted September 19, 2017 Member Share Posted September 19, 2017 Everything else working?It's most likely to be the switch: lots of failures have been reported. But it's easy to replace, and a better version is available from Car Builder Solutions.Have you got a wiring diagram (let me know if not) and multimeter? Check the fuse is OK. Remove the pedal box cover and see if the switch being actuated correctly. Then put your multimeter across the switch and test the conduction when it's pressed and not pressed.If the problem is inside the switch and you need to use the 7 before you get a replacement it may be possible to mend it temporarily. But when you take it apart beware of the little spring which has a habit of making a bid for freedom.Jonathan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blue C7 Posted September 19, 2017 Share Posted September 19, 2017 Take off the pedal box cover and check if switch is live one side with ign switch on,press pedal see if other side is live and lights on. Switch is known to give trouble as not very good quality. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blue C7 Posted September 19, 2017 Share Posted September 19, 2017 To slow Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Area Representative paul richards Posted September 19, 2017 Area Representative Share Posted September 19, 2017 Easier than that. To check switch (and I'll bet that's the problem) simply remove the two wires from the switch and with the ignition on touch the two wires together. If brake lights come on switch is broken. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SM25T Posted September 19, 2017 Share Posted September 19, 2017 It is an easy fix ... remove end cap from switch ... catching the little spring. ... pull out copper bit and squeeze the legs together a little ... remove any grease from contacts and reassemble. Note spring only goes in one way round. If the fuse has blown ... check the legs of the split pin on the top of the clutch pedal aren't touching the contacts of the brake light switch. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Area Representative paul richards Posted September 19, 2017 Area Representative Share Posted September 19, 2017 LADS top tip. If you dismantle the switch do so in a plastic bag. Saves the spring flying all over the place. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChrisC Posted September 19, 2017 Share Posted September 19, 2017 Yes a repair is possible, but I question the thinking behind repairing such a poor quality part. My switch failed with less than 1500 miles on the clock, thankfully I had fellow club members following me when it went, even thought we had a day of driving still to go to get home. Failure with normal traffic would have left me very exposed. The original switch is £5 from Caterham, I think this says it all.I would replace at minimum, and recommend an upgrade. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SM25T Posted September 19, 2017 Share Posted September 19, 2017 The Car Builder Solutions brake light switch is a good replacement. PS ... The spring in the cheap CC switch isn't that violent ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gibbbo Posted September 19, 2017 Author Share Posted September 19, 2017 Thanks guys I'll check it out now at 21-30 checked fuse by putting car into reverse, reversing lights on the same circuit according to googlereversing light works so now taken pedal box cover off and shorted out the switch turned on ignition brake lights are now on,just to be on the safe side and making sure the switch is adjusted correctly I placed a spacer in between the switch and the actuator arm turned ignition back on ,no light now I need a new one ASAP where from caterham again,don't seem there very reliable by your accounts.will let you know the outcome thanks guys so far so goodordered new switch on line Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Jonathan Kay Posted September 19, 2017 Member Share Posted September 19, 2017 No, bonnet of and it's in front off the driver with good access. Would you like an Assembly Guide?Jonathan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gibbbo Posted September 19, 2017 Author Share Posted September 19, 2017 Thanks for the offer but read my latest note cheers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Jonathan Kay Posted September 19, 2017 Member Share Posted September 19, 2017 I need a new one ASAP where from caterham again,don't seem there very reliable by your accounts.See the second link in post #2.Jonathan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SM25T Posted September 19, 2017 Share Posted September 19, 2017 See post #6 to resurrect existing switch for now. 5 minute fix ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gibbbo Posted September 20, 2017 Author Share Posted September 20, 2017 No Jonathan Ive no wiring diagram one would be good in case I have further trouble. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Jonathan Kay Posted September 20, 2017 Member Share Posted September 20, 2017 Please send me a Private Mail with the model, engine, year and type of dash and your email address.Jonathan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BenF Posted September 20, 2017 Share Posted September 20, 2017 If you fit a new switch, then clean the contacts of the old one as per SM25T's instructions and keep as a spare, you are covered for the future. Over 5 years of ownership, I had the switch 'fail' 3 or 4 times and it was a quick and easy roadside fix with the spare in my toolkit, usually pointed out by other blatters.I stretched the spring a little when I reassembled mine, so that the contacts inside the switch opened more cleanly. I thought that this might reduce the arcing across the switch which seems to cause the build of of residue. However, difficult to judge based on a sample size of 1 and my subjective judgement... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gibbbo Posted September 22, 2017 Author Share Posted September 22, 2017 Thanks for advice that was exactly what I had in mind.great minds think alike lol. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gibbbo Posted September 23, 2017 Author Share Posted September 23, 2017 Thanks guys new switch fitted and brake lights are back in working order. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bricol Posted September 24, 2017 Share Posted September 24, 2017 Check the position of the switch.My original one failed not long into ownership in the manner explained above. It had been set a little too close to the pedal, so the plunger was forced through the contacts rather than onto them.Adjusting it so the pedal when returned just operated it, rather than attempted to push it off the bracket sorted it.16 yrs later, same switch does the same job - it's of comparable quality to the switch bought for pence by the manufactuer of the tin-top you drive everyday without thinking about - just might not be positioned quite so well on every car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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