Brian James Minno trailer owners heads up: worn Knott hitch coupling (these are old trailers) Knott-Avonride, Type 2, 2700Kg

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anthonym
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Brian James Minno trailer owners heads up: worn Knott hitch coupling (these are old trailers) Knott-Avonride, Type 2, 2700Kg

My BJ Trailers Minno Shuttle is nigh on 20 years old, unused for at least five years so in preparation for use an mot (called an Expertise here) is required. In fact rather glad it is because:

the hook/coupling rattled a bit as usual, since I have two of these so can compare, a bit of rattle seemed perfectly normal. 

Turns out in this case it is not.

I will add a video link shortly to show how you can test it with one hand, but suffice to say the coupling itself is apparently worn.

Must say I have begun to wonder about the life of this one before I bought it, totally hammered springs to mind. That said given it's age I was expecting to renew ALL moving parts, just that the coupling I never thought of, the lock yes, but the head itself no.

Anyone else had this? Suggest you check first...

It's a Knott.

Testing a good coupling

https://www.dropbox.com/s/nwllq1e9u7jugxb/IMG_2377.MOV?dl=0

and the bad:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/tjnoz7rle081sb0/IMG_2375.MOV?dl=0

there is no movement possible pushing with one's hand, with the bad one there is a lot. 

Having something to compare makes a big difference in determining if there is a problem.

Anthony

 

for younger viewers these now obsolete trailers were designed specifically around the 7 and to fit in a single domestic garage.

and

 

these two trailers are the same vintage, the "bad" I bought used quite some years ago now. The good I have had from new.

edit to add:

The first one, with snow in the background, is the "good" hitch and when you press the back of the inside of the coupling, with the mechanism closed as if for towing, so the default position, there is no movement whatever when you push backwards

The second one is the "bad" coupling where doing the same thing you will feel and even hear if you do it fast enough much movement in the back of the inside of the coupling, also the handle goes up and down, but that's just a bonus because it always does that if you pull it anyway.

When you put your hand in you will feel the correct bit to push.. (i.e. you need to be there ;-)    )

 

 

SOLUTION:

The BrianJames Trailers item code is S-COHD-5104-P-N and commodity code is 87169090 £83.74+vat and carriage will be expensive because it is heavy.

For Coupling-Head, Knott-Avonride, Type 2, 2700Kg, 12mm bolts. It includes the integral lock and key.

SM25T
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Do you have to grease the towball regularly, to reduce wear when cup fitted. Just remembering the days of getting trousers dirty if the cover or half tennis ball wasn't fitted.
anthonym
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I never have. 

SM25T
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Maybe that's the answer for the future ?
anthonym
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I don't think so. My other trailer has no such problem and I have had it since new, and covered tens of thousands of miles with it. This one has done about 3,000 with me only. Anyway, the question is about the rattle experience. I haven't yet considered whether it is avoidable or what caused it. 
 

When you see the video it's not just a bit of wear. It's like a bit is missing. Maybe it is. When we fit the new one I will disassemble the faulty one and see... I might need some help ;-)

In any case this is a heads up to other owners where in the UK you have no periodic tests and owners will be blisssfully unaware, like I was. 

anthonym
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It's a Knott.

Testing a good coupling

https://www.dropbox.com/s/nwllq1e9u7jugxb/IMG_2377.MOV?dl=0

and the bad:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/tjnoz7rle081sb0/IMG_2375.MOV?dl=0

these two trailers are the same vintage, the "bad" I bought used quite some years ago now. The good I have had from new.

edit to add:

The first one, with snow in the background, is the "good" hitch and when you press the back of the inside of the coupling, with the mechanism closed as if for towing, so the default position, there is no movement whatever when you push backwards

The second one is the "bad" coupling where doing the same thing you will feel and even hear if you do it fast enough much movement in the back of the inside of the coupling, also the handle goes up and down, but that's just a bonus because it always does that if you pull it anyway.

When you put your hand in you will feel the correct bit to push.. (i.e. you need to be there ;-)    )

nutty7
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Tow balls should not be greased, better with more friction especially if using a stabilizer.

SM25T
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Not sure the differerence between the videos ?
anthonym
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ok I'll edit just a sec, in fact text in here first:

 

The first one, with snow in the background, is the "good" hitch and when you press the back of the inside of the coupling, with the mechanism closed as if for towing, so the default position, there is no movement whatever when you push backwards

The second one is the "bad" coupling where doing the same thing you will feel and even hear if you do it fast enough much movement in the back of the inside of the coupling, also the handle goes up and down, but that's just a bonus because it always does that if you pull it anyway.

 

anthonym
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The BrianJames Trailers item code is S-COHD-5104-P-N and commodity code is 87169090 £83.74+vat and carriage will be expensive because it is heavy.

For Coupling-Head, Knott-Avonride, Type 2, 2700Kg, 12mm bolts. It includes the integral lock and key.

7 wonders of th...
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