well done mark, good progress.
Thanks for clarification - I didn't do the maths! At £150 for the pair, I'm buying - I sort of expect twice that, once the 'Caterham CSR' markup has been applied! At the moment, I've only spoken to Chris at Redline and he's confirmed that there are none and is now checking leadtime & cost. Depending on what he says, I'll probably follow up Igor's suggestion to go and ask Titan as they originated it ...
The bush (they call it a 'top hat spacer' in the build supplement) came out of the broken one easily - tapped out with an 8mm socket as a drift. There's only one spacer on each side of the car, just where the threaded part of the bolt goes through the alloy.
Mark, Orange CSR 200, Stack dash
I wonder why the tophat isnt the full depth of the aluminium - wouldnt the short tophat concentrate the loading?
The tophat only seems to be there to give a firmer surface for the damper bushing to be pressed against, as opposed to indenting into the aluminium due to the small surface area. The nut and bolt faces have a larger surface area (especially if backed by a washer), so don't have the same indentation issue. One thing I would be sure of is that the damper bushing is a tight sliding fit between the two tophats, any play here will cause an over-stressing of the aluminium bosses when the bolt is tightened.
From the picture would it be possible to use decent mole grips to perform removal.
One thing I would be sure of is that the damper bushing is a tight sliding fit between the two tophats, any play here will cause an over-stressing of the aluminium bosses when the bolt is tightened.
That would be a horrible design. However, the diagram shows a split bush (15) at the bolt head boss rather than a top hat, which I would guess is free to slide in the boss to take up any minor variations in the damper bushing length ?
this is the bolt, on the RHS side of the car the bolt head is showing to rear end and on the LHS the head facing to the front end, if I am correct the split brass is the sliding side so it important to have it well lubricated that is does not get tight.
I wouldn't hold your breath waiting for Titan to help you out, their relationship with CC is watertight. I discovered this trying to get the K series dry sump pan re-manufactured about 6 years ago (when it was unavailable).
I had an issue with the CSR oil swirl tower. Spoken to both parties, get it obvious to the level of embarasing and then CC made the order and Titan did the work.
Some new lessons learnt this morning. I decided to dismantle the good (right hand side) clevis as I'm increasingly thinking that I'm going to need it as the pattern for having a new part made. However, annoyingly, the final allen bolt didn't come out (everything else was a breeze) and instead, the impact driver just spun inside the bolt head. I did then try the great big mole grip, but the bolt is not for turning. You can see in the picture, that I was able to move the clevis with a spanner between it and the upright, so I suspect that the problem with the allen bolt is all about the thread being stuck in the upright. Not sure what to do next, I'm swaying between putting it all back together and leaving it alone (& working) or grinding the top off the allen bolt and then hoping I can get the remaining 'stud' out of the upright. Problem here is the upright is softer than the bolt and I'm really concerned about damaging it and having another larger more expensive part that's not available to buy!
This other picture shows the two bolts that go through the clevis & damper (not as shiny as yours Hanns Per!). Because my eyesight is poor, I hadn't actually realised that the first bolt I took out had two spacers stuck on it - I thought it was just a long head! As for your comments Hanns about keeping it lubricated, those spacers are properly corroded to the bolt.
The small bolt is the one that I did get out of the upright on the good/right side and shows clear signs of loctite