To break the Loctite you could try to wack the head of the bolt with a hammer, wel with a chase inside the allen head of the bolt
Could you weld a nut on to the head and remove it that way? If the thread in the upright is damaged you could always put a Keensert or similar in.
I see that CC say they have full upright kits in stock, including the part you need. I wonder if they'd split, but feel it's unlikely. They're pretty poor at making individual parts available if they think they can sell you a full kit for silly £, IME.
The earlier post about Titan is right too, again, IME. I got a set of RBTBs from them a few years ago, at much less than CC charge. (Same thing, just branded Titan). I've recently been told that they won't now supply them if they believe they're going on a 7, they refer you to CC. It's not really a surprise, CC and Titan appear to have similar attitudes to customer service.
I dont think Titan have poor customer service per say, Caterham have them locked into a contract so they can control supply / price of their parts.
It was based on something I was told by one of the 'expert' transmission people. Apparently Titan were challenged as to why they continued to sell their LSD, with its family well known weaknesses, without properly addressing them. The answer was, supposedly, "so we can keep on selling you the rebuild kits!"
Hearsay, I know, but sort of fits in with my experience years ago with their oil pumps, which didn't seem to last long without a quite expensive rebuild.
Agreed. That killed any chance of a new pattern and remanufacture of the K dry sump pan without supply through CC. Interestingly, CC were not initially interested at all in this until they saw there was some demand and cashed in on the sale, significantly higher than the price I had achieved for similar numbers.
I see the K dry sump pan is now £775 incl tax !!!!!!!!
If it's loctite, heat is the answer - but concentrated. I have an induction heater specifically for such things - wrap the coil around the item in question and away it goes. The suggestion of welding a nut (ie through the centre of the nut) is a good idea though.
If its corrosion - you might be looking at a bigger bolt or an insert when the existing one comes out with some or all of the internal thread stuck to it..
The skill in this sort of situation is knowing when to give up with DIY solutions and pay for an expert to do something so you can save the expensive bit.
re the cap screw - clean it and pop a suitable nut over it and tack the nut the the cap screw with a MIG you can now get purchase, just be carefull not to shear it.
Vibration from a small hammer over a 10 min period with help as will a decent penetrant Plus Gas is my go to for seized items like this
OK, a small step forwards today - in that I have more information. CC have finally heard back from Titan, who are delighted to make me a Damper Clevis (the black anodised bit in the CSR Upright assembly - which is £1,300). That's the end of the good news...
The not so good news. They want £675 + VAT and it will take 2 months. If I want the other bits, like spacers and top-hats, these are all a crazy "one off" price too! To be fair, part of the reason that CC hadn't shared this was because even they were shocked at the price and the lead time.
I'm back onto project "remove the good damper clevis and see if I can find somebody locally to make me one" ... James B has suggested a company in Warwick for me to try first...
Mark, Orange CSR 200, Stack dash
And don't forget my other suggestion, Mark, which was to try Luke Stevens at Team Leos Motorsport.
Those prices are truly shocking!