Team LEOS Motorsport provided the pair of new Damper Clevis (Material is HE30 - which probably needs Aerobod to clarify what that means). They need a different spacer, instead of the standard top-hat - you can see the damper mounting hole on (top left of picture) is much deeper than standard part, so Luke turned me up a couple of those too.
This is the original damper bolt with the standard top hat spacer:
and this with the new LEOS spacer:
I also sent Luke my old clevis to have the wishbone pins removed - he ended up using the "flame-thrower & scaffolding bar approach" - you can see that the anodising has gone from the old part it got so hot:
Advanced Surface Engineeing in Coventry then anodised the two parts for me (took 3 days, but they did it free of charge - thank you!). It's a gunmetal hard anodised finished (looks great - photos don't really do it justice), so this part should now last longer than the rest of the car! I've reassembled them with the spacers and glued in the wishbone pin (Loctite 270 - so not coming out again in a hurry)
The plan is to put them back on the CSR this afternoon ... at long last
Mark, Orange CSR 200, Stack dash
This is an excellent result, well done!!
Looks like a great result, Mark!
The HE30 is most likely a T6 tempered 6082 alloy (HE30 is a common name for 6082 aluminium when in an extruded form, but doesn't indicate it's temper).
In this type of machined application the typical choice would be 6061-T6 or 6082-T6, they are both very close in properties, with both having the same yield strength (270MPa), 6082-T6 having the edge in ultimate strength (330 vs 310MPa) and 6061-T6 having the edge in fatigue strength (96 vs 95MPa).
So good to see this coming back together, Mark.
So, it's all back together and has been for a shakedown blat (3 times!). I jacked it up after the first and made sure that everything that I'd undone was still tight (slightly paranoid).
I sort of feel guilty now for not having a photo of the new bits back on the car (maybe tomorrow), but gosh it's nice to have it working again - although I could have used aircon today in the Midlands - we reached 35C.
Have fun enjoying your car, you deserve it!
Remove the doors and put the half hood on.
It puzzles me that after all the trouble you had undoing parts you still used Loctite.
Elite - assume that was banter, rather than a serious question?
1. There's hopefully no need for the wishbone pin to ever come out of the clevis again - unless I crash it, in which case it will probably be somebody else's problem ...
2. Luke at Leos Motosport said that for his race CSRs he had tried just doing the wishbone pin up very tight, without Loctite and then the same with the nut on the top of the wishbone, but no matter how tight he did them, the pins always worked loose in the clevis
I am only an amateur mechanic, but I believe a medium strength locktite can make it easier to separate parts in the future by sealing the threads and preventing salt water causing corrosion. For something so safety critical which doesn't have nyloc or anti-vibration washers,I would definitely want the peace of mind that thread lock gives