Coolant and Engine DeCarbonising

8 posts / 0 new
Last post
abbot
abbot's picture
Offline
Last seen: 15 hours 21 min ago
Joined: 17/04/2014
Coolant and Engine DeCarbonising

Lockdown has lead to me catching some daytime TV and I have been watching the occasinal Wheeler Dealer programmes.  There were a couple of things I had not seen before:

1, There was a Jag where he did a chemical De Coke of the engine.  Involved plugging in a unit that burnt some chemicals in the engine and burn out all of the carbon build up.  Before and after tailpipe emmisions were seriously improved.

2, Today on a TR6.  Replacing the normal water based coolant with some special coolant that did not presurise the system.

 

Anyone got any experience of either of those?

Jonathan Kay
Jonathan Kay's picture
Online
Last seen: 2 min 3 sec ago
Joined: 17/04/2014

Private Message sent.

Wrightpayne
Wrightpayne's picture
Online
Last seen: 2 min 3 sec ago
Joined: 17/04/2014

Evans waterless coolant has been discussed at length. It is flammable (according to an ex-fireman) which is enough to put me off. There are enough flammable things knocking about already!

abbot
abbot's picture
Offline
Last seen: 15 hours 21 min ago
Joined: 17/04/2014

Thanks guys, I now see it is weeeeelllllll discussed

admaraujo
admaraujo's picture
Online
Last seen: 1 min 40 sec ago
Joined: 04/05/2017

I am using Evans on my K-series. My experience is that it is more stable than normal coolant.

Welcoming Seveners since 2006

The Douro Valley is waiting for you

simon_h
simon_h's picture
Offline
Last seen: 31 min 31 sec ago
Joined: 17/04/2014

Snake oil and snake oil 

David_Long
David_Long's picture
Offline
Last seen: 23 min 4 sec ago
Joined: 17/04/2014

I am a fan of the waterless coolants as they give you plenty of temperature headroom when you are working near the limits - but, as said, it's been well covered.

Removing carbon deposits from an engine with an additive is more improbable. Carbon is a basic and very stable compound. Removing it requires significant heat energy. Adding a chemical to increase combustion temperature enough to clear any buildup is risky, and probably only partially effective.

 

aerobod
aerobod's picture
Offline
Last seen: 5 hours 41 min ago
Joined: 17/04/2014

One chemical method that does work fairly well and is easy to do is the General Motors sanctioned method of soaking the whole piston top, cylinder head and valves for between 2 and 3 hours. This is especially aimed at freeing stuck piston rings due to carbon accumulation.

Basically remove the spark plugs and rotate the engine until all cylinders are at 90 degrees from TDC in a 4-cylinder, then add 100 ml to each bore and slowly rotate the engine 2 revolutions so that all the valves have opened and closed and the cylinder head has been coated (fluid should emerge above the top of the spark plug holes during engine rotation), then let the engines sit for over 2 hours but under 3 hours. Put lots of rags loosely in the spark plug wells and above the engine and crank over to expel all the black soup. Replace plugs, run engine until up to temp and no more smoke is expelled, then immediately change the oil.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Genuine-88861803-Engine-Injector-Cleaner/dp/B00BK7LR36

James