Jump to content
Click here if you are having website access problems ×

CSR Diff Removal


Shortshift

Recommended Posts

You may want to consider removing the hub, brakes and drive shafts as one complete unit. Make sure the speed sensor wire is not still attached!!!!! It is a heavy lump so easier if two of you can man handle it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

As MadMalc says, easiest way is is to remove the hubs and driveshaft as complete units. Remove the calipers and tie wrap them out of the way.  Take care when you pull the driveshafts out of the diff, don't simply pull on the discs because if the diff end of the shaft doesn't immediately come out, you can inadvertently extend the outer CV to past it's limit and you could displace the internal spring, so pull both ends of the shaft together.

On a de dion, if you disconnect the radius arms, and rear shocker bottom mounts, you can push the de dion back to give you more room.  Maybe you haven't  those restrictions on the CSR

Take loads of pics of the mounts, to ensure you have a record of the number of spacer washers used.

Dropping it out and putting it in s easier with two people, more hands to keep the diff level on the jack. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

no reason why the shaft hub and disc cant come out as one, disconnect lower coilover and remove wishbones to upright mounts.

looks like theres more access to the prop bolts than on an S3 !

Are you getting Steve to pop a Tracsport in the new final drive before it goes in..?

Tazio - on a Dedion theres no need to touch the radius arms or lower coilover mounts, drop the A frame and zip tie the tube back to the chassis thro the centre mount - final drive drops straight out then.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Neil, for the sake of undoing 4 bolts to get the de dion out of the way,it's a no brainer, it gave us so much more room, and remember I've got 20 more odd years on the clock, than you, so I'll take that advantage.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Leadership Team

So it seems the consensus is:

1.  Find a strong, fit, handsome assistant (luckily, Simon M has been voluntold for this, and he meets most - though perhaps not all - of the criteria)

2.  Disconnect the wishbones (both upper and lower, or only one of them?), disconnect the tie/toe-control bar and withdraw the hub/hub-carrier/rear calipers/driveshaft from engagement with the diff as one unit (the calipers on on flexible lines so give a fair bit of free play)

3.  Disconnect the propshaft flange joint and, with the help of the glamorous assistant, unbolt the diff from the chassis (very different from a S3 car) and lower either to the ground or onto the soft, squidgy, flesh-coloured thing underneath.

I think that makes sense.  It does look a bit tight, though, to drop the diff between the various chassis tubes - but I guess it must go through somehow.

Neil - I managed to speak to Steve (after not getting any response to emails) and, to be frank, I got the impression he wasn't interested.  Not what I expected, given reputation and so on, and disappointing as he's only eight miles up the road from me.  On the other hand, R&R have been very responsive.  Guess where my business is likely going...

James

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Leadership Team

Neil - I don't want an LSD on the CSR.  Happy to leave it open for cruising and fast-road use.

Igor - yes, the Stack on my R500 uses a front wheel speed sensor but the CSR (and many others, including your 620, I suspect?) pick-up off a toothed wheel at the rear.

James

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...