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CSR road differential mounting


Hanns Per

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Balance it on a trolley jack, sitting at 45 deg with the propshaft flange raised. Gradually lift the trolley jack while feeding the flange over the chassis crossmember (appropriately protected). As you raise it you can level it off. I think I loosely fitted the two lower bolts and then the long top bolt with a long screwdriver inserted and wiggled to get the bolt in. Probably a lot easier if you didn't have to do it on your own on your back in about 2 ft space. You'll get it eventually, just before you lose the power of your arms. What bit are you struggling with?

I found getting it off far harder, getting the suspension bolts off, the drive shafts out and, especially, the long top bolt out.  

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I know this will make some `cringe` but I put the front bolts in first and then lined up the top bolt hole ( it is about 3mm out of line) on a jack and drilled it through with a 1/2" drill and then slotted the bolt through. Previously the top bolt had to be bashed through with a hammer which preloaded the bushes and made it noisy *smash*

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Thank you gentlemen, the bolts is the least problem for me. it is just bringing it in so that I can start with the bolts. bought a cheap used 3.6 Diff will take the internals out to make it lighter and and try to find out how to put it in with this light empty diff. let You know

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I got this diff and took the internals out to make it lighter and tried with my "muscles" only. 45 degree front of the diff up and into the tunnel but there is no way I can lift the rear end up. The rear end gets stuck between the chassis tubes. I tried it with tilting the diff to the left and to the right no success. I am desperate.

The only possibility I see in cutting off 5mm from the front of the drive pinion which would make it possible to lift the rear end of the diff into the chassis cage and then the front end into the tunnel (passing by the lower rectangle chassis tube. But this is not what I want.
 

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