naddy Posted April 13, 2009 Share Posted April 13, 2009 I'm fed up with battling to remove & refit the boot floor without damaging anything, spending loads of time doing it & removing skin from knuckles. I think some people cut it in half to make the task easy? is that correct and are there any good reasons not too? If not then any other less drastic mods that you'd recommend... Cut 1/4 inch off one side maybe? The floor is the ali honeycomb type and I'm assuming thet the cut would be in a fore/aft direction so you're left with a left and right hand peice. I have already cut out the small segment that went around the filler pipe. Ta Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
k80rum Posted April 13, 2009 Share Posted April 13, 2009 I've also cut away the material behind the filler so that it's a C shaped cutout rather than a hole - makes taking the floor out easier and gives me the option to take it out without removing the filler/plumbing I've not cut the floor in half but don't really see any good reason why you couldn't do so. Perhaps a diagonal cut might work well, then just use a few more screws to keep the area of the cut firmly attached. I have cut the section in front of the boot floor just behind the rear bulkhead though, to make removing it easier (i've got the Caterham diff braces which come up through this area) Darren E K80 RUM Website and Emerald maps library Home of the long-term, supercharged Duratec project Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
naddy Posted April 13, 2009 Author Share Posted April 13, 2009 grrr, i post this thread, return to the garage and have another go... floor goes straight in without scratching anything. I refuse to believe my own eyes & luck so i promptly removed it and put it back again in about 30 seconds. I should be pleased!!! it seems i have the nack now though.... It's still not off the hook though - i feel a bisection coming on.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dannylt Posted April 13, 2009 Share Posted April 13, 2009 My first effort took absolutely ages too, but like you, second time it took 30s. Of course, the next time I have to do it I might have forgotten the knack :-) I wish I'd videoed myself now! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alan7 Posted April 13, 2009 Share Posted April 13, 2009 It's either a 30s or 30m job here How do you get the dead flies off your teeth....... 😬 R5AAH Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rj Posted April 13, 2009 Share Posted April 13, 2009 It is a real pain. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ECR Posted April 13, 2009 Share Posted April 13, 2009 I've cut mine in half, no problem. I've also cut a cee round the filler neck so removing the boot floo is a LOT easier. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
6speedmanual Posted April 13, 2009 Share Posted April 13, 2009 When it is known that the floor can be removed and refitted in one piece, I can't personally see the point in cutting it in half. The opening of the hole for the filler neck of course is very practical as the boot floor can then be popped out quickly without disturbibg pipes etc. It's like a Christmas cracker puzzle - once you know how to move the pieces it comes apart easily. Peter BRAWNGP green SUPERLIGHT *tongue*There's no such thing as too much IQ per Pound 😬 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ECR Posted April 13, 2009 Share Posted April 13, 2009 I have diff braces in the boot so adjustment to the floor is necessary ... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leadership Team SLR No.77 Posted April 13, 2009 Leadership Team Share Posted April 13, 2009 Nick, my old car I cut the boot floor around 12" from the RHS, allowing the fuel filler area to be refitted permanently. The other section (2/3rds ish) could be easily removed/refitted as needed - removing more than half allows easy access to the diff. Current car, I've just made a small access panel for the diff - take a look when we're down at Curborough Stu. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stationary M25 Traveller Posted April 14, 2009 Share Posted April 14, 2009 Mine came with the floor in 2 parts - rear is aluminium honeycomb, front is plywood. The join is located over a lightweight aluminium support. The original plywood was very thin and soft (and mouldy). Replaced it with a much more suitable thicker piece of ply. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leadership Team SLR No.77 Posted April 14, 2009 Leadership Team Share Posted April 14, 2009 Ian, I think we're all refering to the rearward honeycomb section only - the bit that doesn't want to go through the boot opening without scraping rollbar/bodywork/fingers. Unless that is, you're not really concentrating at which point it miraculously finds a way through Stu. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JACK FLASH Posted May 14, 2009 Share Posted May 14, 2009 Guys, My Twin Cam came with a wooden floor in 2 pieces. I always assumed that this was the standard solution. Even with a floor in 2 pieces I still have to remove the rollover bar to get it out. Am I missing something or am I just clumsy ? Jack Flash Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leadership Team SLR No.77 Posted May 14, 2009 Leadership Team Share Posted May 14, 2009 JF, the floor is normally 2 sections, a forward section made from plywood sometimes with an aluminium skin, and a rearward section over the fuel tank now made from honeycomb aluminium, but maybe previously made from ply. Nick is referring to cutting the rear section into 2 pieces to make fitting/removal easier, and also to remove the problem of messing with the fuel filler arrangement when needing access to the diff. Stu. Joint Area Representative MAD Sevens (Merseyside And District) www.superse7ens.co.uk..........the rebuild 😬 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
millsn Posted May 15, 2009 Share Posted May 15, 2009 I dont have one at all Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Normans_Ghost Posted May 15, 2009 Share Posted May 15, 2009 My carbon floor is secured with velcro and is easy to remove and refit. Mind you, my rear wings are secured with velcro at the front section wirh a small roof screw holding to bottom edge to the chassis. Norman Verona, 1989 BDR 220bhp, Reg: B16BDR, Mem No 2166, the full story here You and your seven toThe French Blatting Company Limited Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JACK FLASH Posted May 17, 2009 Share Posted May 17, 2009 Stu, If you count like that, my floor exists of 3 pieces. A front piece that sits over the dif, but this is not a flat piece but a box with a depth of approximately 50 mm. The second flat piece that is located above the tank is cut in half. All pieces are in plywood. Perhaps the whole thing has been home made by the first owner of my Twin Cam. Can anyone give advice ? Jack Flash Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leadership Team SLR No.77 Posted May 17, 2009 Leadership Team Share Posted May 17, 2009 Not sure what happened in the past, but ..... Both my '95 and my '99 cars have been the same. The front section you mention is plywood underneath, ally on top, the rear section is honeycomb ally (to protect the fuel tank if rear-ended). It's the honeycomb bit that is often cut down to help with fitting, and also to allow access to the diff without messing with the fuel filler. Stu. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobt Posted May 17, 2009 Share Posted May 17, 2009 I really can't see how this piece of honeycomb can provide any meaningfull protection for the tank in the event of a shunt I recon its primary function is nothing more than a lightweight rigid floor for the boot for when stuff is placed in it. Rob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonboylaw Posted May 31, 2010 Share Posted May 31, 2010 Does anyone have dimensions of the boot floor? specifically the width and the length from the rear panel to the rear suspension turrets (not from the bulkhead). This is for an S3, non lardy. I want to buy some checker plate, but can't measure until tonight. Jonathan My Flickr ----------------------------------- 95% there :) 92 Supersprint, Ford LSD LA, RK AX Crossflow. Edited by - jonboylaw on 31 May 2010 13:29:22 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Windy Corner Posted May 31, 2010 Share Posted May 31, 2010 Bobt, Having recently been rear shunted, I am glad it was there. The ali honeycomb helped resist the movement of the rear chassis ladder into the fuel tank, which probably meant the difference between carrying on with Wightblat or retiring home on a low loader. If you cut it so you get a LH & RH half I wouldn't have though you would have reduced the structure as long as it was still self tapped in like mine was. My 2007 already came with the filler neck cut out, so perhaps all the newer ones now are. I do like the idea of leaving a smaller end around the filler permanently though. Rik Roadsport SV 1.6 Sigma 150 in Viper Blue here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Angus Posted May 31, 2010 Share Posted May 31, 2010 A less drastic solution is to trim or file a couple of mm or so off the edge of the panel at the sides and rear. Before removal mark the areas to be trimmed, and remove as little material as possible. A couple of trial fits might be neccessary to check all neccessary material remived. Assuming you have a boot carpet (recommended) then the edge will tuck down and fill nicely the now slightly larger gap between the floor and side skin. Angus Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigel Riches Posted February 17, 2014 Share Posted February 17, 2014 Good old fashioned bit of 10mm plyboard, as supplied by Caterham back in 1982, but I have reinforced the front support Ali sheet with some square section tube, as it was getting a bit saggy and sad. Not a terrible job to remove, refit, it's a knack, once learned, etc. Nigel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomB Posted January 8, 2020 Share Posted January 8, 2020 Holy thread resurrection Batman! Im ready to fit the honeycomb section of the floor, but it’s a bugger to fit at the best of times. I’ve got a lovely painted car, with black powder coated suspension turrets and I don’t want to carve chunks out of either fitting the awful rough edged honeycomb boot floor. It always seems about 5mm to big. So I either file it or cut a strip off either or one side to make it a touch narrower, or cut it in half. Or I cover the boot opening and anything else that can be scratched in making tape and top it will be ok. Any other suggestions? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Jonathan Kay Posted January 8, 2020 Member Share Posted January 8, 2020 Tape the edge of the floor as well?Jonathan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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