Duratec R400: removing/repairing/replacing wet sump

[John Vine]

Well, after 16+ years playing with 7s, it had to happen.  Today I managed to hit a large rock in the middle of the road, resulting in a cracked sump.  

My plan is to remove the sump, assess the damage (just a hairline crack, I hope) and get it welded.  If the damage can't be repaired, a new sump pan beckons.

Is it possible to remove the sump with the engine in situ?  And if so, how difficult is it?  Tips and advice gratefully received!

JV

[John Vine]

Well, everyone I've spoken to says that the sump can be dropped with the engine in situ, so that's good news.

However, there seems to be some difference of opinion about whether or not to undo the bellhousing bolts:

• Raceline say to undo the bolts to allow the b/h and gearbox to be moved back about 2mm
• CC Crawley say that's not necessary, and that the sump can be detached with the b/h attached, with the aid of a lever bar or big screwdriver

As access to some of the b/h bolts is awkward to put it mildly (plus the need to remove #4 primary to get at the two rear-facing bolts), I'm going to try it the CC way.

Here's a photo of the damage:

JV

[Alan Reeves]

Ouch, shout if you need a spare pair of hands

 

[John Vine]

Thanks, Alan.  I'm about to drop the sump.  More news later.

JV

[SM25T]

Good luck John. Do you need to raise the ride height .... or was it an unusual rock ?

[John Vine]

Thanks Ian, and a good question.  It was certainly a BIG rock, at least the size of a half-brick -- fell off a lorry or tractor, I imagine.  There are some mighty flints around here.

I managed to drop the sump OK.  I'll post up some pics later on of the crack.  The question I have now is whether I can instal the new sump without first loosening off the bellhousing bolts to create a bit of room..  I fear I might have to do this as there's a vertical face at the front between sump and timing cover that requires sealant.  I think I'll call Raceline for advice.

JV

[John Vine]

Here's a pic of the crack.  It runs right through one of the bolt holes and down the front face:

I plan to replace the sump anyway, but is this crack weldable?  If so, I'd have a spare ready for the next rock.

Reading Raceline's installation instructions, it seems that I need to apply their special sealant on the top and front faces.  Unless I create some room by separating the bellhousing 2-3mm or so, I'll end up scraping the sealant from the front face as I lift the sump into position.

It seems I have three options:

1. Loosen off the b/h bolts so that I can move the b/h and gearbox back
2. As 1, but remove the engine mount bolts where they pass through the chassis rails so that I can move the engine forward
3. Lift out the engine and gearbox

I'd prefer #1 or #2, but will do #3 if I have to. 

Can someone who has done this before advise on the best course of action?

JV

[ECR]

Certainly looks weldable to me. I've had far worse repaired ......

[John Vine]

That's encouraging, Roger - thanks. 

Raceline have given me the name of a welder in Hampshire they use, so not far away.   Presumably the bolt hole would need to be re-drilled and tapped?

JV

 

[ECR]

Not sure about the bolt hole, you'd have to decide after welding. It may not be necessary .....

[7 wonders of the world]

John,

YHBM  or will have very shortly !

 

[John Vine]

Received with thanks -- very interesting.  YHBM too.

JV

[John Vine]

Hi Neil,

Thanks for your latest message.  I can't reply as apparently your mailbox is full!

JV

[7 wonders of the world]

Ooops housekeeping time !

[7 wonders of the world]

Thats better !

[John Vine]

Well, the new sump is in, and very smart it looks too:

 

I'd like to thank all those who offered advice and guidance (especially mic, who convinced me that these sumps can be replaced in situ without having to loosen bell-housing bolts or engine mounts -- thanks mic, that saved me a pile of effort!).  I've not yet refilled the oil so will have to wait a few days before I can assess oil-tightness.  Fingers crossed!

JV 

 

 

[SM25T]

That temp sender (?) connector and cable looks very vulnerable !

[John Vine]

You're right, Ian, it is!  (It's an oil temp sender.)

It's been like that for a few years, but it's time I did something better.  The lead and connector are covered with heat-shrink, but I was thinking of some sort of rubber sleeve to run from the blue plug up into the engine compartment.  I'd like to cover the sensor connection completely.   Any ideas?

JV

[John Vine]

Well, for the benefit of anyone who plans to instal an oil temp sensor on a Raceline wet sump, this is what I ended up doing:

I ran the sensor lead inside a length of polythene tubing, which was a push-fit over the central insulator of the sensor.  I taped over the join and secured the loose end of the tape with a couple of cable ties.

JV

 

[Jonathan Kay]

Neat.

Did you close the top end of the sleeve to prevent water entry?

Jonathan

[John Vine]

No, I didn't, so I'm about to fix that with a plug of silicone sealant.  Thanks for the suggestion.

JV

[Angus]

John - what was your solution to not having to loosen the bell-housing bolts ?  Could you post up instructions on how to do it ?  

(I have a slight weep of oil from the joint with the front timing cover that I really should do something about).

[John Vine]

Hi Angus,

Is it possible to remove just the timing cover to fix the leak?  If not, I guess you need to drop the sump instead.

(ETA:  My brain wasn't in gear last night.  To remove the cover, you'd need to remove the crank pulley - something best avoided unless there's no other option.)

These are the steps I followed (with excellent help from mic) -- successfully, I'm pleased to say:

1. Raise the front of the car as high as possible (I used ramps plus a thick wooden block on each) -- you need to get free access to the rear of the sump
2. Drain oil from sump plug (not the blue plug) -- about 5L
3. Detach dipstick tube (jubilee clip)
4. Loosen and remove all sump bolts (4 through timing cover, 4 through bell-housing, 13 through sump)
5. Use two pry bars to break the seal between the rear of the sump and the block (there are slots built into the sump edge where you can insert the bars)
6. Work around the sump flange with the pry bars, very gently, until the sump is free and can be lowered
7. Clean off all the old black sealant  from the mating surfaces of the block, using a scraper and then acetone (I was replacing the sump so didn't have to clean that, but I suggest you take a photo of the sealant trace; see below) -- note that the steel plate at the back of the block in front of the flywheel comes with a thicker sealant layer already applied, so get off as much as you can -- a smooth, lump-free surface for all mating surfaces is what's needed.
8. Clean off the old sealant from the timing cover surface in the same way, using a bradawl to get it all out of the groove

To reassemble:

1. Apply a thin bead of Ford sealant (black silicone, P/N 1217470) to the sump mating surfaces (I used the sealant trace on the old sump as a guide but you could use the photo), fill the timing cover groove, add a bead to the 90 deg corner where the cover meets the block, and a thicker bead along the rear edge of the sump where it meets the steel plate
2. Feed the rear of the sump in towards the bellhousing, then raise the front to engage with the timing cover -- it needs a firm tap to get it sliding in, and quite a bit of the sealant will be scraped off -- not a problem as only a very thin layer is required
3. Insert 4 sump bolts into the block to secure things, then insert the rest, tightening evenly to draw the sump up into place
4. Insert the 4 bellhousing bolts (I used new spring washers on all except the long M10x90), and then the 4 timing cover bolts
5. Torque the sump bolts evenly to 15lbft (20Nm), the bellhousing bolts to 15lbft, and the cover bolts to 8lbft
6. Check that a bead of sealant has extruded all round from between the mating surfaces.
7. Refill with oil, fire her up and look for leaks!

Raceline sent me a detailed set of instructions for assembling and fitting the sump kit.  If you'd like a copy, send me a message with your email address and I'll send it to you.

JV

 

[John Vine]

Hi Angus,

I haven't heard any more from you.  Did my notes help? Did you manage to fix the weep?

JV

[Angus]

Hi John

I've responded to your PM - apologies for the delay.

Excellent set of notes - thank you!

The part number for the sealant - is that a Ford part number (FINIS code, I believe they are called) ?

Angus