Elegant solution needed...

[cobaltcodd]

I've finally got around to swap out the manually adjustable seatbelts on my '88 Supersprint for some nice harnesses.  However, it means that my boot cover doesn't fit anymore onto the studs on the chassis as the bolts for the inner shoulder harness straps are in the way.  It was a nice and quick way into the boot - as getting it from the back has a tyre in the way.  Anybody got any elegant solutions for solving this?  There is a flat metal bar inside the front edge of the boot cover.

 

[SM25T]

My harnesses are bolted through the boot cover. Never had access to boot from this edge !

[elie boone]

The bolt from the harness should go trough the boot cover, be care full as the alloy inside the boot cover isn't much wider than the hole required for the harness bolt.

[John Vine]

Yes, the harness bolts should go through the cover.  The Assembly Guide has this diagram:

I'm puzzled that only your inboard mounts are obstructing the cover.  Did you use the inertia-belt mounts (ref 6 above) for the outboard straps?  If so, you should use mounts 3 and 4 above instead.

If it's any help, I also have a zip file of the 1986/88 Assembly Guide.  If you'd like it, just send me a message with your email address.

JV

[cobaltcodd]

Hi JV, 

Yes, I've used number 6 in the above diagram.  My car never had inertia reels, just ancient manually adjusted belts.  However, number 6 is also the bolt that holds my rollover bar in place (2 being the socket), whereas in the above diagram it's number 1.  Thanks for the manual offer - I'll message you

[John Vine]

Interesting.  How specs change over time!  Do you have the outboard 3 and 4 mounting points?

I think JK has sent you all you need re guides, but if there's anything extra you want, just say.

JV

[Wrightpayne]

In my build it said to remove the aluminum bar. A bit challenging now the poppers are fitted!

[DJ.]

It's not very elegant, but the best solution I can come up with is to buy some rectangular aluminium tube. The tube width would be the width of the chassis tube plus enough space to reach a little behind the seatbelt mounts, and high enough to just cover the seatbelt bolts. It would be fiddly, but you could cut out the front and lower portion of the tube so it can fit onto the chassis tube and cover the four seatbelt mounts. Then you could attach the press stud bases to the top of the tube with longer screws into the chassis tube.

The front of the boot cover would have to higher than normal, but you would still be able to unfasten the front edge. The alloy tube should prevent water getting under the cover and into the boot, and painting it black would make it less obvious. It shouldn't involve cutting the boot cover or damaging the chassis further, so if you don't like it, you could remove it and just bolt the belts through the cover as most Sevens have.

Duncan

[AdamQ]

I'd use cap-head bolts for the seatbelt/harness mounting bolts and Araldite some popper bases into the tops of those and use those to secure the boot cover at the front.  Or you could just drill into the standard normal harness bolts and rivet a popper onto the top of those.  Or just Araldite without drilling if you have concerns about potentially weakening the harness bolts.

FWIW ...

Adam

[Drumster]

It strikes me that if you are using the Point 6 for the outside harness mounting point then the driver's right/passenger's left shoulder could easily slip out of the harness as the harness isn't coming over your shoulder? At least when using Point 6 with an inertia reel the seat belt travels diagonally across your chest.

I'd also be concerned about the apparent lack of head restraints.

[cobaltcodd]

I'll move both the outboard belts to the bushes in the frame - yes, it does feel a bit "loose" across my right soldier.  Maybe I'll just have to live with peeling back a corner of the boot cover for access.

The seats never had headrests - there doesn't appear to be any way of fixing them either - I can't feel anything inside that could be interpreted as a flange / frame / fixing etc

 

 

[SM25T]

Echo the points raised in #10. Using point 6 for a harness is too far from the centreline of the seat.

[garybee]

Maybe a good solution would be to add a zipped or velcroed opening to the boot cover.  That way everything could be secured down properly at the front and your harnesses could go wherever you liked.  If you get an opening added that is roughly 'L' shaped then access would be better than current too.

In fact I think I'll get this done to mine, a zip would be better than faffing with poppers.

Edit: can't see this costing more than £20 or £30.

[Drumster]

Out of interest, what is the problem accessing the boot with a spare wheel in situ. It's not been a problem with my '93 car.

I understand older 7s didn't have headrests, having suffered a rear end collision (with a headrest)  I wouldn't drive or passenger in a 7 without them. Maybe someone with an older 7 could offer advice on retro fitting.

Likewise having been involved in a head on collision (with a 6-point harness) I wouldn't be happy without one.

[Ivaan]

My old K series car had an extra black aluminum channel on the front of the boot edge, with cut outs for the belts. The boot cover was then fixed to the top of the channel. I'll see if I can find any photos.

Clive

[cobaltcodd]

The spare wheel is clamped to the car, and so traps the folded edge of the boot cover between it and the bodywork.  I have prisoner alloys, so I have to undo the centre plate that hides the studs, slacken off the T piece so I can pull the tyre away a cm or two and then undo the cover.  Then reverse the process.  It was a lot easier just un-popping the front edge and dropping the shopping / clutter in.  I've been looking for some original leather seats with headrests for quite some time now, but they just don't seem to come up.

[cobaltcodd]

Also - I like the idea of a zip being sewn into the cover.  I shall investigate that further, many thanks

[Ian Macquarie]

I'm surprised no one else has mentioned it but there is a Y shaped spacer available that means there is a slight space between the spare wheel and the back of the bodywork which enables the boot cover to be unclipped without having to adjust the spare wheel at all. https://caterhamparts.co.uk/other/6568-spare-wheel-spacer-bracket.html (there might be more than one so check it is suitable for your car.)

Ian

[7 wonders of the world]

This will help boot access and save weight too:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Puncturesafe-Tyre-Sealant-cars-motorcycles-Double-Kit/392379654343?_trkparms=ispr%3D1&hash=item5b5ba660c7:g:v4AAAOSwIYtdUWA7&enc=AQAEAAACcIQvEcHUrT7nmUC3yY5qbPyaBN1nJEDYW8MyypsJPgXKcMTUiP84T5kv%2FuCsjbxUmx4%2BlM8GggMQD%2BisUbJwm4VKh1Oa6trf7eOyJFcP2s%2BJu6IV84nd9%2FLy1heDElFdvZX1l%2FKcBAFR4snFO%2Bo9oQ8w%2BhNAx9wV9FoSjf3ENkSp%2Bms8S4LDWAoNyR1%2FePOypU4s6pSmsPYZsp2rzV19HBHuyBYwB28inUpxAzV357pFp4Fcz3b%2FkcIMApVxwwOJAnlmTyV405rOjy4BFvDxSWj2sZE1zuEwhrMWMoYzDzZfbIvyO4WJXqVhUpt0kPHY88zunZPTlKYkaBCqDTyLmznykyfrDsBrvTi%2FyAhTY14nd%2BaGvUkATLXFRFu5TMnaE4RzsDYvgG7c5Fito0gS6H9vop1%2Fkez5hAm%2BoO5GLatmjcCwWj%2BBt9W0cSZX%2B1miDf9ysvHRWf%2FwDyPBubSrHN9dh8A1LEgsFKe6NzU5K1gCqjDPvOSdPY4b4dQf4%2B%2BfszHOSNdirkkRkj%2FzWqgAxGGWEO3XweYfKIhJYenr%2BBUHoInVbf6vX0l5uwVB39KIJUaA2Ji5A3CzgTFAJtkdsIe9TtNn1Jsqp9GQYW9v%2BVmsxgBn21oGY5waFTwYKKGMH5%2FGcJkzX0jPeyEDaaKC9AvkDDRSawkeuRrcdOgUIkhsYZIWOb07lCmMLVcbRBocNGC0mS6j61DIzHyoGqJn2uOplzPDsfxYEK9JCTc9PhU1%2FwvSko5dDqTZctT1vSBPTYcyz%2FQytSrIe7Y0tonBO1proi16qZH2M%2FnQ3x3oli28NL7x6Ua0%2FS1qvel575Gdog%3D%3D&checksum=392379654343ec6963d1052645e287280cb0341ba451

[john g]

 

This is how it looks on my 95 xflow