blueyedbiker Posted October 18, 2017 Share Posted October 18, 2017 Evening all, any suggestions for a suitable point on the loom to take an electrical supply for a rear mounted Facet fuel pump?Ta. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blueyedbiker Posted October 18, 2017 Author Share Posted October 18, 2017 Should have said, it's a X Flow, bog standard de Dion, 2000 chassis. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Jonathan Kay Posted October 18, 2017 Member Share Posted October 18, 2017 What's the current fuel pump? And what's the specified current for the new one?Jonathan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blueyedbiker Posted October 19, 2017 Author Share Posted October 19, 2017 Morning Jonathan, the current fuel pump is a hole in the side of the block - the engine is fresh from Vulcan so it'll be a Facet 40105 solid state pump as supplied by Mick at Redline. No information about current draw on the box or instructions but I wouldn't imagine it'd be that big. They talk about it being wired through an oil pressure switch but I thought I'd put in a toggle switch. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Jonathan Kay Posted October 19, 2017 Member Share Posted October 19, 2017 Looks as if that's 1A maximum current. Do you want an inertia switch?(I can't see or think of an especially suitable existing point... but I don't yet understand their drawing of the reversing light circuit.)Jonathan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Deslandes Posted October 19, 2017 Share Posted October 19, 2017 Assuming they didn't leave the wire out of the loom you might find a white/purple wire sticking out of the loom somewhere around the rear bulkhead where the pump is normally mounted, to the nearside. If it's there it should be fed from a fuse in the main fuse block. It all depends on whether they used a universal loom. You can find the wiring diagram for '95 chassis cars, what may not be the same as yours but should give you a clue here. The Ford engined cars had a mechanical pump like yours so the wire isn't shown on the wiring diagram but if you look in the Vauxhall cars you'll find the fuel pump (item 54) with its white/purple wire.If you mount the Facet on bobbins to keep the noise down don't forget to bridge a wire across to chassis for the 0v.If the wp wire isn't there, take a fused supply from the ignition wiring. Use a 15A fuse as the original 10A would blow at very inconvenient moments. Do consider a cutout switch wired in series with the pump supply and mounted on the engine bulkhead to stop the pump in the event of a crash.Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Jonathan Kay Posted October 19, 2017 Member Share Posted October 19, 2017 If it's there it should be fed from a fuse in the main fuse block. It all depends on whether they used a universal loom. You can find the wiring diagram for '95 chassis cars, what may not be the same as yours but should give you a clue here.That's clever. If the fuse layouts are accurate they'd changed by 1998 and were the same for Ford, Vauxhall and Rover.If the wp wire isn't there, take a fused supply from the ignition wiring. If there isn't anything more convenient you could use a piggyback fuseholder.Use a 15A fuse as the original 10A would blow at very inconvenient moments. Why is the only specified maximum current I could find for that Facet pump so much lower than for whatever Caterham fitted?ThanksJonathan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Deslandes Posted October 19, 2017 Share Posted October 19, 2017 Well, hopefully they all have the same pump wire and, maybe, the fuse holder.The 95 manual specifies a 15A pump fuse but I seem to recall that a 10A was fitted for some reason. There have been various discussion on BC over the years about the need to uprate to 15A which solves the problem of it blowing. It may be that the average current is low but the peak is much higher and the fuse gets 'tired' after a while.I run both my swirl pot injection low pressure Facet red top and high pressure pumps off the same 15A fuse and have never had one go in 18 years Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blueyedbiker Posted October 19, 2017 Author Share Posted October 19, 2017 Thanks for the info. No obvious wp wire down there, just the feeds for lights and fuel tank sender. I like the idea of the piggy back fuse tap, I guess that having replaced the fuse with the 'tap the original fuse goes into one socket on the back and a suitable one for the pump in the other socket? Very neat. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Deslandes Posted October 19, 2017 Share Posted October 19, 2017 Pity. I've not used them so not sure how they fit. JK should be able to help if needs be. Just don't use a Scotchlock as they damage the host cable.Good luck with itPaul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blueyedbiker Posted October 19, 2017 Author Share Posted October 19, 2017 Horrid things, scotchlocks. Just been scratching around for an inertia switch without any instant success, nothing on Merlin or 'Tweeks sites. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Jonathan Kay Posted October 19, 2017 Member Share Posted October 19, 2017 That's what I assume!Agree about Scotchloks and I choose not to solder on cars, which should leave these fitting in nicely when you don't want a whole new fusebox and there isn't anything more convenient.Jonathan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Deslandes Posted October 19, 2017 Share Posted October 19, 2017 Google fuel pump inertia switch and you'll be spoilt for choice Either that or go to a scrappy and get the minitimer connector as well. A local motor factor will probably have one but you may need to give them a car make and model, so make one up. Old Rover 200 and 400 models, and lots more besides, had/have them.Caterham have them but they come with a mounting plate and are at least 50% more expensive than on ebay.Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Jonathan Kay Posted October 19, 2017 Member Share Posted October 19, 2017 -----Original Message----- From: Jonathan Kay [mailto:jonathankay@mac.com] Sent: Thursday, October 19, 2017 7:20 AM To: p.puleo@facet-purolator.com Cc: Jonathan Kay <jonathankay@mac.com> Subject: Cube Fuel-Pumps | Motor Components, LLC | Facet Purolator http://www.facet-purolator.com/cube-fuel-pumps.php Please could you tell me the recommended fuse rating for a 40105 in a road car? Thank you Dr Jonathan Kay...Hi Jonathan Thank you for your email. A 3 to 5 amp fuse is what we recommend. Paul Puleo Motor Components, LLC National Sales Manager www.facet-purolator.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Deslandes Posted October 19, 2017 Share Posted October 19, 2017 Interesting. Remember though that the fuse is there to protect the wiring rather than the pump. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Jonathan Kay Posted October 19, 2017 Member Share Posted October 19, 2017 Is this something to do with the shift to solid state pumps?Jonathan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Deslandes Posted October 19, 2017 Share Posted October 19, 2017 Not sure what you mean JK. It was a solid state pump that blew the fuse on my car when I was still on carbs (cue weight loss pun).I tried searching the archives for early stuff on this topic but I lost the will to live.Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Jonathan Kay Posted October 19, 2017 Member Share Posted October 19, 2017 Thanks. Yes, I was wondering if the 15A(20A) fuse ratings were for traditional pump technology and 1.6A draw/ 3 to 5A fuse ratings were for solid state.Jonathan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elie boone Posted October 19, 2017 Share Posted October 19, 2017 A Facet fuel pump would need a fuel pressure regulator as the pressure from the fuel pump is to high for Webers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now