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Few niggles, advice appreciated


Saltyhair81

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Evening guys,

Couple of questions regarding a few minor issues on the car.  Probably been covered a few times but just in case...

1. Reverse light - When you put the car into gear, the light comes on but then goes out again. It seems sporadic into how long it stays on for. Any ideas?

2. Condensation badly in the speedo and a bit in the Rev counter - I have Caterham warranty as I only bought the car a week ago, would we all agree these are items that need to be changed under warranty? The speedo is getting to the point its covered 80% by condensation and causing a hazard.

3. Occasional clunk - I'm hoping this is just the LSD and I am sure it is, but would this again make a random noise.  Tends to be after I have changed gear and throttled up, but I have also heard it at other points.  Reason I ask, the prop bushes in my transit are shagged and worryingly it makes a similar noise.  My transit has 130k and this has 11k though!

I believe that is it so far, I may add to this thread in time - but I hope I don't! 

Thanks in advance. 

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Edited: Crossed with #3 above.

Reverse light - When you put the car into gear, the light comes on but then goes out again. It seems sporadic into how long it stays on for. Any ideas?

Hmmm... lots of possible faults.

Have you got a multimeter and the appropriate wiring diagram?

All other circuits OK? And it does it predictably?

Start with the easy bits:

  • Have a look at the lamp unit because it's accessible: open it up, look at the connections, wiggle, take the bulb in and out. Try a temporary good earth. 
  • Then the reverse light switch and connections at the gearbox. IIRC there are two different types of connectors used.

Jonathan

PS: Do any Sevens have a relay for the reversing light?

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Thank you for the details, good advice.  I'm just not sure how much I should do myself under warranty.  Another thing I have remembered, the left side of the switches (brake fluid, hazards etc) have no lights when the lights go on. Again, is this normal or maybe a fuse/ internal lights have failed?

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What year and model is your car?

...the left side of the switches (brake fluid, hazards etc) have no lights when the lights go on. Again, is this normal...

Yes.  Brake fluid and hazard switches light up only when you operate them.

I'm just not sure how much I should do myself under warranty.

Assuming you're fairly close to CC,  it would be a good idea to get them to check out your problems (especially the clunking noise), just so there's a record for the future should things get worse.  

But it's worth doing a couple of simple checks of the reversing light yourself anyway.  As JK says, have a look at the lamp unit and the switch connectors.  For the latter, remove the large rubber grommet on the driver's side of the transmission tunnel.  This will reveal the switch, and you should be able to check that the connectors are clean and secure.

Agree about the misting instruments.

JV

 

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Turn the reverse light switch in by a fraction at a time till the light stays on. It was the other way around with mine - a quarter turn out stopped the reverse light illuminating every gear change.

A clunking LSD seems pretty standard but make sure that the LSD has oil with good anti knock qualities. Preferably a 70W 140  (Castrol Syntrax LSD 70w 140) or any other good oil around that index level.

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Clunking Final drive or LSD should not be standard....

You need to identify the source...... if the later it's a sign of failure of the unit, plates or belleville springs, known problem due to poor design, if your runnig wuth the heavy BMW final drive then there are few if any other options, however if your running the Sierra final drive you can swop the Titan for a better designed plate LSD thats proven and silent - Tracsport 

Are you still under any warranty with CC ?

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The car is only 2 weeks old in my ownership so has 11 and a bit months of CC warranty left.

I have only driven the car 5 times, albeit each for around an hour.

I will try and get to a meet ASAP so I can get some advice off other owners unless there are any experts not too far from Redhill/ Reigate? *thumbup*

I don't want to take anything back that's normal and waste anyone's time. 

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3. Occasional Clunk

Have you checked the anti roll bar droplinks for tightness or play?  Removing them and greasing the ball joints keeps them quiet and they last a lot longer too. It only takes 1/4 of a turn to allow them to move and knock. It could be when the car squats under acceleration. 

I have an occasional clunk on my 420R as an inner rear brake pad sometimes rattles over bumps. They have yet to bed in properly though. Also check that the boot floor is secure.  

 

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Don't forget that the diff is fairly solidly mounted only a few inches behind your left elbow the other side of a thin bit of carpet and aluminium- so perfectly normal backlash in the gear mesh, driveshaft splines etc could be heard as a "clunk"  - such a clonk from a softly mounted diff in an isolated sub-frame several feet away under the carpet, sound deadening and floor of a BMW or Sierra would be inaudible.

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I'm such an idiot, completely forgot, I know Andy's son Tim through my local pub although haven't seen him for a while. He works for DPR motorsport. Maybe I will take him out and he can let me know. I believe Andy might be moving from Redhill as I think their house sale has gone through for info. 
 

Thanks for all the replies 

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