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Fitting dome filter and backplate


Paul Mason

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I've removed my airbox and going to replace with a Pipercross dome filter and ali backplate (onto Jenvey DTH throttle bodies, K series). Should I put some RTV sealant on the ends of the throttle bodies to seal with the rear of the backplate and similar on the ends of the trumpets to seal on the front of the backplate or should they fit "dry"? In dismantling, the rear of the airbox backplate had no sealant but there was some between the front of the backplate and trumpets. Hope that all makes sense.

 

Thanks in advance

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Thanks Stu. My car has had previous (prior to my ownership) of ingesting a trumpet bolt and becoming "gravely poorly" as a result. So I have taken the precaution of new cap bolts, washers additional ribbed gripper washers (if that's the right description) and some loctite too. I may also put some nuts on the back (if I can access) where the trumpet bolts go through and out of the back of the throttle bodies bolt holes just as a triple check.
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Problem is, the Pipercross back plate is taller and both the plate itself and the tangs to hold the filter on foul the fuel rail and the regulator (??) At the front of the fuel rail. If I try to move it down to clear the top, the filter won't go as hits the brace that goes from the bulkhead to the driver side suspension and the coolant hose that goes to the thermostat housing? Have I just utterly bought the wrong thing or is there any way to salvage the 110quid I've spent??
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Actually, you can scratch that, as nope, this is not salvageable as the trumpets don't even fit into the filter (they are shorter than the filter is deep but the flare at the ends hits the inner curve of the dome so won't even fit inside *curse*. I'm going to find a corner and sob for a little while now.......

IMG_20180618_183249_0.thumb.jpg.794b23d7a8031f005be2a92efeb2e93d.jpg

 

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I was going to buy one from Jenvey Jason, but it was quite a lot more expensive, hence doing the above, so I've only got myself to blame really (though I had said to the chap from Pipercross that it was for a K series Caterham with Jenveys). I'll put the above onto "for sale" and perhaps get some money back as it's all still new and unused and I haven't cut the backplate, so maybe all not lost, I'll hopefully get some of the money back
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I was going to buy one from Jenvey Jason, but it was quite a lot more expensive, hence doing the above, so I've only got myself to blame really (though I had said to the chap from Pipercross that it was for a K series Caterham with Jenveys). I'll put the above onto "for sale" and perhaps get some money back as it's all still new and unused and I haven't cut the backplate, so maybe all not lost, I'll hopefully get some of the money back
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  • Leadership Team

I'm pretty sure there's a carbon fibre back box available that fits the filter you have, it adds around 50mm of depth and will clear the fuel rail.

When my car had Jenveys fitted it also had some custom made 40mm spacers between the TB's and the backplate, this not only gives the clearance you need but also increases the induction length which is a positive.

Stu.

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Thanks Stu, thanks ECR. Problem now solved and backplate being delivered hopefully on Friday meaning I can use the Pipercross filter I have bought so only loss is the blank ali backplate and holesaw/arbor i bought. Went to Jenvey and bought what I was originally going to buy (before I decided to try and save myself a few bob)

abb2-50c-m.jpg.9c2f758db71393c45de83dee9b8fd9c8.jpg

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This may be the dimmest question I have ever asked, however now having bought the Jenvey dished back plate to clear the fuel rail, it is hitting the chassis leg (the holes the tabs on the bottom of the filter goes into) which runs from the pedal box to behind the front drivers side wheel (below photo running parallel to the blue coolant hose and with various wiring tie wrapped to it). Is it possible to run a 7 with this chassis brace removed? Or is that just dim? (it's bolted both ends so eminently removable and would still have one on passenger side anyways)

IMG_20180621_182250.thumb.jpg.a054155d03323fc9c3285b700d2f2d64.jpg

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It's fouling toward the rest (mainly ports 3 and 4) where the slots sit for the tabs at the bottom of the filter. For the sake of my sanity I did remove (then refit) the chassis rail and it went on (though the bottom of the filter still fouled against the clutch cable where it comes out of the pedal box so even then it was a pig to get it on). Car started out in life as a 1.6 supersport but has had the engine replaced with a 1.8 with a VHPD. When I bought it, it was as it is now with the airbox
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  • Leadership Team

With the bonnet fitted how much clearance is there to the top of the engine and filter? Easiest way to check is to remove the nosecone then refit the bonnet without it. It might be possible to add some packing beneath the RH engine mount to raise the air filter away from the chassis rail .... this isn't a bodge it's a mod that's been done before ... it aids sump/road clearance as well! I asked regarding the VVC because it has different engine mounts, can't recall if only one or both.

Stu.

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Not sure but I can measure later (as I'm in the process of refitting the airbox as I'm out this weekend with some of the local group for a play). Top of air filter runs pretty parallel to fuel rail so probably a couple of inches clearance so potentially enough as the fuel rail lower than tip of cam cover and breather filter that's fitted? Would this not effect gearbox position though if I canted the engine over more?
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