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fitting a spare wheel carrier


patibbitts

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Pat,

Typically, these fit on a chassis where the lower rear panel tube has some bosses brazed into it and you have to drill through the rear ally panel so the bolts will pass through (need to lift up fuel tank).

 

This was a later modification by Arch in early 2000’s IIRC - my ‘98 chassis had the wheel hoop permanently brazed on which I have cut down to two 1” stubs so I can re-attach if needed. Some people cut the tubes off completely and some cars didnt have the hoop nor brazed in bosses. If yours has the threaded fixing in the centre of the back panel then it would have had some sort of wheel hoop.

You should be able to check the rear lower tube for bosses without removing anything!

 

Ian

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Gents thanks for the replies.

 

You are both correct, having removed the full width rear numberplate the lower frame tube is visible.

 

There are 2no. remnants of the original sawn-off tube wheel holder that appeared to be brazed into the rear rail.

 

I'll drill and bolt it on methinks?

 

Weird thing is one has a hole through and the other dosn't.

 

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If you don't have facilities for welding in the stub (if you don't already have them) then a roll pin/tension pin will do the job. I used "R"  clips rather than bolts to hold it to the car (it just made it faster to remove/re-fit)


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Great replies Gents, thanks. (Especially the pictures Aeroscreens)!

Yes, I purchased the new bolt on carrier from Redline Chris.

The packet said 'removable Caterham racing carrier' - or something similar.

The ends of the carrier have a 3/8 UNF -24 captive nut brazed in so I drilled holes through the existing stubs that were sawn off, and bolted the carrier in place.

Allbeit that it's not that quick to remove (tank shift jobby)

Seems fixed thanks Gents

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