Fog, reversing and number plate lights.... how to retro fit.

[jonathantennantbtinternet]

As per subject. 

Currently have a rain light on the roll cage and thats about it. So I wondered how easy is it to fit a fog light, reverse light and number plate light ?

Does the fuel tank need to come out ?

Thanks in advance 

Jon

[Jonathan Kay]

I'd start by exploring underneath the rear of the car: what connectors can you find and what colour are the wires connected to them?

Jonathan

PS: This is the 1998 Superlight K? What's its history?

[jonathantennantbtinternet]

Hi Jonathan

The Superlight has the lights but fog and reverse hang down. 

I;ve also just got a Sigma engine 7, ex acadamy. managed to fit the front lights , the connectors were taped up, so I presume the rear lights will also be taped up. 

 

[Jonathan Kay]

Sorry, I don't understand.

 

Which one are you trying to fix?

 

I suspect that the wiring for everything that you need is already there up to the connectors... 

 

Jonathan

[TomB]

Do you have an ali honeycomb panel underneath the fuel tank?  I do and I can't get access to the wiring for these lights without removing it. A task that requires the fuel tank to be lifted so it can slide out. But this task mean the boot floor has to be lifted so the tank can be maneuvered.  In short its a pain in the backside to access these wires on mine. 

But if you don have the ali honeycomb panel fitted, its not so bad.  You could loosen the fuel tank retained strip and filler connection and slide the tank forward to gain access.  On my rear re-wire project, Ive made sure the terminals and connections are in the gap between the end of the tank and the side skin, meaning I can hopefully gain access if needed without taking it all out.

 

[jonathantennantbtinternet]

Thanks Tom. Looks like I'm in same position as you. 

 

Jonathan, it's fit not fix. Car currently hasn't any ( Sigma race car )

[anthonym]

I refitted mine recently, had to shift the tank about, but not remove it. To access the holes for the wires. Used rivnuts after removing nuts and bolts. 5mm rivnuts.

[7 wonders of the world]

.....or mount a small central rear fog on the number plate light bracket along with small led number plate light, ditch the reversing lights and leavea nice  clean rar end without the OE bricks spoiling the looks.

[anthonym]

or some LED fogs: 

I added a second reversing light to stop my OCD complaining.

and what the rivnuts and wiring looks like on the inside of the reversing lights - one could of course / would normally be a fog. Ignore the yellow where I have taken the feed for reversing light two. Seems odd to me if your car does not have the loom presence unless it has a customised one where lightness has been added. 

all that said 7 wonders idea looks interesting. 

and the trick to getting the econoseal plug through the metal: 

Rivnuts, having drilled out those 5mm holes to fit "5mm" rivnuts (6mm  I think)

[TomB]

You've discovered the annoying molding in the plastic light housing for a hex headed bolt I see! Exactly what I've done and I don't understand why it isn't standard.  I've got insulated bullet connectors on mine which will be wrapped under loom tape, not the Econoseal plugs though.  

[anthonym]

Yes and getting the nuts off the bolts inside the tank space, despite shifting it a bit, was a real pain. 
in fact think I have a pic.

found this pic showing an idea of how the number plate light is fixed to a piece of ally which itself is VERY firmly fixed to the chassis. I hazard that bit of ally is the secret ingredient for the op.

and here the restricted working space, problem is even if using rivnuts, the wires still demand access, I guess MAYBE if not using econoseals it may be possible to push them through without shifting the tank. This pic shows me struggling to remove the original nut(s) off the original bolt(s), using a 1/4 ratchet socket handle. Come to think of it I have no access from below because of my rear exit exhaust, so there may be access from below, anyone? Though  I think the chassisrail is too close to the tank for that.

[TomB]

Exactly why rivnuts should be standard! Bloody stupid design that you've got to remove at least the boot floor, which on mine means the roll bar as well, to replace a relatively fragile external light fitting! I first fell foul of this soon after I first got the car 15 years ago. I dropped a socket which hit the light fitting under the fuel filler which promptly disintegrated after being embrittled though weathering and spilt fuel.  Have you got the honeycomb panel under the tank?

[Brightonuk]

I went with these 

 

[anthonym]

No honeycomb under my tank.

[Drumster]

When I rebuilt my 7 I asked Bruce at Arch if he could fit (what I believe were) the old style 'brackets' for theses lights. These comprise a simple metal tube welded to the bottom of the chassis where the tank sits and the reverse and fog lights simply hang down for these mounts. no need to drill holes in rear panel or rear wings. Note these are not the Caterham lights but small square ones from SVC

[Ian B]

Brightonuk, you'll find that the black plastic of those LED lights is VERY susceptible to disintegration after coming into contact with petrol.