Getting Started (A Complete Mechanical Novice!)

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Jonathan Kay
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Yes. Sevens have a lot of electrical niggles and IMHO more time is wasted on not diagnosing them efficiently than in any other area.

Jonathan

SM25T
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Welcome to Blatchat. Any spare holes in the floor can be useful drain holes if you tour in biblical European rainstorms ... or Sussex last Saturday. I drilled a 10mm hole each side under the seats, and fitted a blind rubber grommet in each. Can be removed to drain water.
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If you using adjustable runners its worth spot welding plain M8 nuts inside the runners, this will enable you to secure with button head M8's from below - massively easier than trying to access the cap screw form the top that CC persist in using.

Wrightpayne
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Read up about thin headed bolts for the cage / bar (different size used between cage and FIA bar). They fit immediately above the rear shocker, which needs to come out to access the bolt each side. The best advice is get an individual (cheap) socket and grind the chamfer off the face to get a better purchase on the bolt.

Ian

 

 

robsandbach
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Some great tips and help from everyone, thank you so much. I ordered a jack and pair of axle stands today in anticipation, so ready on that front.

I have a track day booked for late November so I may hold off the seat and cage/bar swap incase I end up with an inoperable car due to some unforeseen circumstance! In the meantime I can read up on how to remove the rear damper which seems the most difficult/technical part for a novice.

I'm also going to attempt to move the pedals further back as, the throttle pedal in particular, has my knee bent up nearly against the wheel at the moment. I noticed the pedal itself has a large circular element I could do with losing to gain another couple of centimeters. Now to find some time to start!

Thank you all again.

Jonathan Kay
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Have you found the factory notes and BlatChat hints for adjusting the pedals and cables?

Jonathan

Wrightpayne
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A lowered floor can help with space for feet around the pedals and knee’s by the steering wheel.

robsandbach
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@Jonathan I have seen the various threads yes so have a few ideas but they're a little hard to follow without having the car to peer into. A lot reference bending the throttle pedal for a better position relative to the brake but I am more interested in just moving them all back which I believe is a reasonably simple adjustment. I am sure it will make sense when I open the pedal box.

@Wrightpayne I believe the academy cars all have lowered floors so I am probably already benefiting I suspect. I am 5'10" - the pedals in a showroom Caterham seemed much more comfortable so I am hoping it's an easy adjustment :)

Golf Juliet Tango
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my knee bent up nearly against the wheel at the moment.

This should not be the case but swopping from Tillet seats to S type seats will make this worse. The S types have a substantial anti-submarining lift at the front of the squab, lifting your knees very noticeably.

Of my cars, one has a Tillet for the driver, the other an S type, so I experience the difference regularly.

Also, I find the hips shift laterally far more in a leather seat. Cloth may wear out but holds the backside far more securely.

Stephen Hubbard

Democratic dissent is not disloyalty, it is a positive civic duty

Wrightpayne
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I’m 6’1”, 15st and lowered floor, S type and 290mm momo is the best fit for me in an S3 seven. I also have lots of room in the pedal box to lay my clutch foot at rest.

I’ve tried tillets but find them uncomfortable on long trips and a bit snug!

Ian