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Grasse, France - where to buy tools? Broken down, fuel pump ordered. SOLVED


anthonym

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Grasse, France - where to buy tools? Broken down, fuel pump ordered. SOLVED

 

Naturally immediately before the fuel pump failed (tests suggesting an internal short) I had filled to the brim. 

How best and what tools to extract aid fuel? Mouth to petrol suction considered, but not favoured! Maybe it has to be done, but what containers to catch it? 36 Litres max. I am on holiday so disposable or cheap. Maybe cheaper to ditch the fuel and replace.  I gather draining direct to drain is interdit (forbidden).

So far my guide is this thread: https://www.lotus7.club/forum/techtalk/changing-fuel-pump-1997-k-series-supersport

​Parts all ordered from Redline and on their way. Rivnut tool ordered from Amazon.fr just in case. 

HOPING that the process is to empty tank, release tank and pivot it upwards to gain access to the right side pump location without having to remove the roll bar. After leaving tank empty for a while (overnight probably) to clear highly flammable petrol fumes. 

Moral support and otherwise very welcome - stranded, though there are worse places than the cote d'Azure. 

Anthony

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Unfortunately I'm not in Saint-Raphaël to help!

I can only find one DIY store in Grasse: Les Briconautes with two branches. Now closed, open at 0730 tomorrow.

... but what containers to catch it?

Think camping, sailing, wine vrac container. (Scent bottles are too small!)

Donate it to another car?

Mouth to petrol suction considered, but not favoured!

If you have to do that make sure you've got something to wash your mouth with asap then something like mints. The awful taste doesn't last.

Remember to keep your 'phone charged.

Hope you're sorted soon.

Jonathan

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Anthony, which engine do you have? On my 1996 K I removed and refitted my fuel pump (to change the gasket) by doing:

  • remove boot floor, to get access to the long bolt-like things that fasten the top front edge of the tank to the chassis at the rear bottom
  • detach the fuel filler from the rear panel -- remove the fuel filler cap to reveal 2 (I think) screws. No need to mess with anything on the tank end
  • push the tank to the side

That gave just enough room to remove the pump. If you haven't ordered a new one, be careful not to damage the rubber gasket when you remove it.

Good luck!

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@strangely engine is year 2000 R500 - I've ordered two new gaskets, as I tend to be ham fisted.

@JK yes  Les Briconautes has been suggested, well spotted, though tomorrow is a France holiday from what I gather. 

Anyone any safety suggestions regarding the tank once empty, but still fume filled? I gather this is a potentially dangerous circumstance to be treated with great care as regards sparks such as working with tools too soon.

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Frustratingly I do have a new fuel pump, not an original, but it's at home and every which way I look at it, it's quicker and less costly to ship another from Redline.

I propose to have the failed pump rewound as the expected repair and if that is successful to re-install it. Which process will also prove whether the repair idea is workable, it's time frame and costs as regards the new replacements that don't quite fit but can be made to, as I am about to prove.

 

 

edit: notes:  battery charger, pretty long extension lead, jerry cans for 36 litres, extraction pump & hoses in/out.

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Anyone any safety suggestions regarding the tank once empty, but still fume filled? I gather this is a potentially dangerous circumstance to be treated with great care as regards sparks such as working with tools too soon.

Usual precautions:

  • Good ventilation... where is the car?
  • No smoking, including helpers and onlookers.
  • Exit routes decided and clear.
  • Appropriate fire extinguisher to hand.
  • Battery disconnected throughout.
  • No power tools.
  • No grinding or abrading... only place where that might look like a good idea is if you have any crud on the sealing surfaces.

Jonathan

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Hi rj, I have no idea. If this one completes my trip and gets me home I will be happy. I think the one I have at home is "uprated". 

@jk yes apparently it is I am told by passer by. 

We have great progress, jerry cans and tubes and spannering help from EEK, we have one last rivnut screw that is spinning in its "socket" so wanting to avoid drilling or hack sawing it I am applying dismantling fluid every couple of hours and will leave overnight because without the part arriving for at least two days there is nothing else to do. 

Battery Earth is disconnected as well as cut-out switch. Fuel tank is diagonally upended exposing pump location for easy access. Last reading said 9 litres of fuel remain. which is light enough to manhandle.  I could post a couple of pics if there is somewhere easy to put them. All openings are plugged.

Westermann Motorsport have told me the part is "NLA" (which is true) and there is an external pump solution though difficult to fit. I have asked for details to see if that's also an option. Edit: response is they have custom designed it and I should plese take the car to them for the work.

MFRU and this failed pump diagnostics question: https://www.lotus7.club/forum/techtalk/mfru-multi-function-relay-reverse-power-protection

Anthony

 

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This is the pump you need: https://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/p/fuel-pump-for-caterham-7-motorsport-upgrade-pump-itp144

The std pump cant maintain flow rate required at std pressure on the regulator. It tops out at around 205bhp @ 3.5Bar.

It *may* be ok on part light throttle, but it wont satisfy fuel rate required and the engine will ultimatley pink, detonate and go pop.....

 

 

 

 

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From Redline so I know it’s the right bit. Sorry, I should have said. Great price inc rapid shipping too (to France) plus extra bits (riv nuts etc) Thanks for checking :-)

 

edit: now then, what can you tell me about how to retrofit the new almost-fits pump to the original carrier? I gather jubilee clips are involved. 

I gave in and hacksawed off (slowly to allow heat disipation) the final screw from spinning rivnut. 

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If done porperly soldering the wires would not form a problem - rather the opposite.

You should only add a very small amount of tin, but this would then prohibit corrosion of the copper and ensure a steady connection. You must be careful not to add so much that it crawls under the insulation. You should also ensure that the cable has been properly secured so that it does not move near the plug entry.

Soldering wires is just like salt. You need it, but if you get too much it'll kill you.

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200A068A-8501-42D7-B5B2-6A1364D1D7CD.thumb.jpeg.6a08975c3d7ebe4b7b577c917b8a5ab8.jpeg Yeah. Broke down again after many hours en route, ten minutes from the trailer; fixed it. I didn’t intend to split this thread, but it continued here: https://www.lotus7.club/forum/techtalk/mfru-multi-function-relay-reverse-power-protection 

​thanks for checking on me :-)

now “home” at trailer : no more stress

 

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