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indicator repeaters


blueyedbiker

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Top tip, don't.

 

Fit them in the headlamp bowls, much neater.  Just take a feed up into the bowl from the indicator pod to a small LED repeater, mine are clear but flash amber, and earth to main earth at base of bowl.

 

I can email a pic from my phone.  BM your email address.  *thumbs_up_thumb*

 

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I placed self adhesive foam strip (the stuff that the bonnet sits on around the nose cone) with the sticky side fixed to the mating surface of the repeaters.  You can then trim the foam around the repeater.  This fills the gaps quite nicely. Be careful not to over tighten the repeater fixings, as you can craze the fibre glass where the repeater makes contact with the wings.

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Excellent suggestions, many thanks.  I already have the standard Lucas ones so fitting them on the side skin seems to be the obvious way forward especially as it's SVA compliant and saves having all the wiring clamped to the wing stay and wishbones. It might mean the bulbs would last a while longer too.

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If your car has still to go through the IVA Test, and you go for side skin fixings, perhaps check the Test Manual.  There is something in there about angles of visibility.  Which might be affected by obscuration from the front wheels in some positions.

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Thanks Jim, I've had a trawl through and you may be correct and even if I were to get lucky on the IVA there's always the subsequent MOT's so it's back to wing mounted.  I'm currently experimenting with moulding a spacer out of black silicon sealer, trouble is the garage is so cold that it's taking an age to go off.

Ian, re the connectors thanks for the offer, it's just 2 pins that I need, is that something you can assist with?

Regards,

John.

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John,

yes happy to assist - send me a private message with your address and i’ll stick them in the post. I also have the silicone plugs that go onto the wire and crimp on with the connector - I include some of those too.

If you look at an existing connector you will see how they crimp on.

 

Ian

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Good result from the moulded spacers, nice neat fit with no gaps or edges.  Squidged a load of black silicone into a couple of sheets of cling film (previously wiped with WD40 as a release agent) and having marked up the position on the side of the mudguard pressed it in place with a flat piece of plastic and held it there with a clamp 'til it went off.  With the rubber backplate as a template, used a scalpel to cut it to shape and cut the holes out and job done.  Only needed to remove one of the studs in the light assembly as there was enough thread inside the mudguard to take the washer and nut and replaced the other stud with a 4BA screw with shakeproof washers to pick up the tag on the black wire.

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