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Interchangeable aeroscreen fitting


CtrMint

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Hey Guys,

Having seen a good number of members running aeroscreens on the Taffia last weekend I'm now inclined to get mine fitted.  

I am slightly apprehensive about it since the wife doesn't like the idea, so I need to ensure it is 'interchangable' as per CCs description, she'll want the full screen back on before she goes in the 7 again.  Given I'm having a lot of fun with the car I also don't want to screw the install up and potentially take the car off the road during the summer pending a fix.

As far as I can see there is no installation instructions in 2015 manual and nothing in the Ikea manual.  Does this mean it's so simple it doesn't need documenting ??

I've also had a look on CCs parts site at the potential parts needed, which I suspect is this;

https://caterhamparts.co.uk/windscreens-aeroscreens/3006-composite-windscreen-deflector-kit-s3.html

I have the screen and mirrors, plus a mounting kit, however, I can't seem to find the retaining channels. 

https://caterhamparts.co.uk/scuttle-panels/302-retaining-channel-lhs.html

Are these likely to be pre-installed in the car? 

Thanks for the support

 

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Mr Mint

It is unlikely that you will have the captive nut retaining channels fitted, you can easily check by putting your hand up behind the knee trim panel and the dashboard and feel if they are there.  

If they are not there then you will need to purchase them along with the aeroscreen and mirrors.   First time fit will be fairly time consuming as to fit the new channels is a bit fiddly but once bolted in place the change over is relatively quick.  The heated screen connectors normally come with spades on and I changed mine to bullets to make it easier to pull the wires out through the holes in the scuttle.  

I normally lay a blanket on the scuttle/ bonnet, remove the wipers, undo the four bolts holding the windscreen and lay it forward onto the blanket.  If you have a cut out switch you have to lift the stanchion over the key outlet.  Then remove the heated screen wires and then lift the screen off.  Then just fit the aero onto the poppers which I assume will be there if not you may need to fit them to. Then bolt down the ends of the aero.  Job done.  Going the other way takes slightly longer as it can be fiddly to line up the stanchion holes with the retaining channel captive nuts but after several goes it becomes easier.

Think that is it.

Nick

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Forgot to say if your knee trim panels are pop riveted in place it is easier to change the rivets for self tappers so you can remove the panels to get to the retaining channels and wires.

N

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Thanks I do have the screen and the mirrors already as I purchased the new kit/car with the aeroscreen plus a full screen.

I wonder if CC fit the captive nut retaining channels at the factory.   I guess I need to check, I might go and stick my iphone or gopro behind and see what it can record.

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Slight mod to Nick’s instructions above, I slacken the 6 small screws holding the stanchions to the windscreen frame to avoid and scrapes to the scuttle and then undo the main 4 bolts and lift the lot off 

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... I purchased the new kit/car with the aeroscreen plus a full screen.

In that case, you're very likely to have the channels and captive nuts already fitted.  If so, swapping screen for aeroscreen (and vv) is straightforward.  I fitted narrow spade connectors on my heated screen wires to facilitate removal.

JV

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To avoid paint scratching when swapping the screens over without resorting to blankets or other paint protection methods, I just have a dual line of black electrical tape that fit under the front edge of the aeroscreen and is also covered by the windscreen seal. The tape line also aids in lining up the screens when fitting them. What I did is initially get the aeroscreen lined up, tape to the edge of it with painters' tape, then remove the aeroscreen and run the electrical tape up against the painters tape.

To further avoid paint chaffing and avoid rain running under the aeroscreen if caught out without a roof, I also added a line of closed cell foam behind the edge protection strip on my carbon aeroscreen, to seal it well against the scuttle.

 

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Undo one of the stanchion bolts. If it slackens then rotates you haven’t got the captive nut component. If it comes out and goes back you have.

If you got the whole package ex works you really should have the captive nuts and the wiring should be sorted too.  

The knee protectors have to come out if you don’t have the captive nuts, so nothing lost in just trying the above.  

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CC has confirmed I should have the captive nuts.  

However, I think I've had a change of heart.  It's been pointed out to me that driving in the dark or dusk with the aero can be a problem as you can't wear sunglasses.  I don't have a full face helmet at the moment and since I like using the car in the evening and sometimes when it gets dark I think I'll leave it put, until I either source a helmet or eyewear suitable for dark conditions.

 

 

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You wont go far wrong with these goggles/sunglasses. I have used these and/or similar goggles with Brooklands aeroscreens for some 18 years/70k miles, night and day, rain and sun etc. with SWMBO as passenger too. Do get some decent earplugs as well as wind noise alone will do a lot of damage to your hearing.

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I keep 2 pairs of Bolle safety impact glasses in the car with sunglass, yellow and clear interchangeable lenses. Brilliant at night with the clear lenses on the safety glasses. Only use helmets on long fast trips or at the track. I would certainly recommend trying the aeroscreen, I haven't done any significant distance with the windscreen fitted since first fitting the aeroscreen in 2016:

IMG_0773.thumb.jpg.96f4dc75fd85d5f01087475b376ab0b4.jpg

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I had some made for me after having an impression taken at Autosport.  They are good but was talking to a guy who is in the industry at Le Mans last year who said the disposable foam ones are just as good. 

Nick

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Screwfix have a range of very well priced safety glasses with clear or smoked lenses. Otherwise buy a decent set from the internet with interchangeable lenses. Aero’ing is the way to go *cool*

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I drive aero 95%+ of the time and have three pairs of Bolle Silium+ safety specs from Screwfix - clear, part-tinted and fully-tinted...  £40 all in, ballistic protection and covers the different light situations I come up against.

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Screen/aero on road is an old argument. Get some safety specs, try it and make up you own mind. 

I much prefer a full screen and doors on road but aero is essential on track. 

I use foam earplugs. They’re fine as long as changed regularly. Bought in bulk they’re cheap enough. 

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