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Jacking Advice - Seven with rear silencer


CtrMint

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I suppose that might work, although I never like doing that sort of thing.  The plastic tiles I have on my garage floor aren't slippy but you certainly can't use ramps on the fronts, the ramps are expelled with some force if you back down off them.  Wood planks at the rear will probably be more of an immediate drop-off, so not likely to be as much of an issue.  Driving on though, I suspect they'll be pushed forward as there is no resistance on the floor.  Even with rubber underneath I suggest they'd move.

I guess I could also take wooden planks on track days, I want to take spare wheels and tyres for wet weather running,   Being able to jack the car at track day is therefore important.

 

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Or jack up on the outer A frame mount, put the plank under tyre. Repeat other side then jack on dedion / diff.

On my 911 the point to jack and place for axle stand are too close together bringing the jack in from the side. I jack up each side, put 4" of blocks under each front tyre then I can get the jack in from the front of the car so it doesnt clash with axle stand placement.  Its a phaff but the safest way to do it.

another idea for driving onto planks is to nail some 2" webbing (old seat belt ??) on the under side of the wood so it leaves a tail you drive onto first which should stop the wood sliding IYSWIM

Ian

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I think most alloy "racing" jacks will fit under the silencer, the one I have has a saddle height of 90mm in the lowest position, with a height of about 100mm where the lowest point of the silencer would be. I use a rubber hockey puck in the saddle "cup" and lift under the deDion centre boss. It may require a second hockey puck for the jack to clear the silencer while the hockey pucks are in contact with the deDion:

IMG_2305.thumb.jpg.f58d67ea4a5edea80e1dc2333aafd159.jpg

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I don't know if this is practical, but would it be possible to remove some plastic tiles under the centre rear of the car. It might just give you the space to slide the jack under the silencer and jack as usual.

Duncan

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Before I got a low Jack I visited by local timber yard. 

A 3m piece of something like 250 x 75 timber was a few £. 

They cut it in half, 2 x 1.5m. Then ran each half through the bandsaw on its edge, cutting through at a shallow angle to give me 4 pieces with a nice run up on each end. 

Place them all up to each wheel and just roll the car up on to them. 

Better if you can get jack to work without but an option if necessary. 

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Thanks everyone, seems there are a couple of ways to approach it, I hope you don't mind me saying all are a bit of hack.  I might see how the hockey puck idea goes, as I've got loads of them from my Exige days.  If not wood for the garage at least.

I do also have a small bottle jack I bought for the build but actually never used it.  I'm not a fan of them but it might be enough to jack the car up for a rear tyre swap on a trackday.  I'm not sure it will have the height to get the car on stands though.

@gulf, Sounds interesting, how large is it?  Is the sort that uses a compressor?

Thanks

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my 'low-entry' jack doesnt fit under the exhaust, but the 1.5 ton factory scissor jack does slip on its side under the rear exhaust.  I lift the rear of the car by the A-frame mount.  a couple of turns is enough to raise it to change wheels, brake work, suspension settings.  anything requireing me under the car, I jack it high enough to put jackstands under the chassis.

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Hi Mark

See the post above#15 that's the type I have works perfectly ,have got a carpeted block on the lifting plate so it clears my front numberplate and also gives a couple of extra inches lift,for trackdays it's so quick to lift the car for wheel changes.

Dave

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Hi Mark

See the post above#15 that's the type I have works perfectly ,have got a carpeted block on the lifting plate so it clears my front numberplate and also gives a couple of extra inches lift,for trackdays it's so quick to lift the car for wheel changes.

Dave

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