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K series Auto to manual tensioner West Yorkshire


Fridybrydy

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Later cylinder heads (with an auto tensioner) require a hole drilling and tapping to accept a manual tensioner. The cylinder head casting has the appropriate internal boss, just not drilled and tapped.

This was done for me by a L7C member and was straight forward, with the cylinder head on the bench. I guess it could be done in situ with precautions against swarf. 

 

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IIRC when we did yours Malcolm the biggest task was keeping the drill square to the front of the head because we didn't have a bench drill handy. I think if I was doing it in situ it would definitely need a helper to watch that it remains aligned.

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You need two holes, one M10 x 1.5 28mm deep, one M6 x 1.25 x 16mm deep , I have a template that I use to allow correct placement. If you don't get the holes perfectly perpendicular to the surface (particularly the M10 hole) then you risk the bolt/setscrew coming undone. Drilling and tapping isn't easy given the constraints of the installation and the positions of the holes and of course the possible damage caused by any dropped swarf.

If you have stock cams or supersport cams then the autot tensioner is adequate and you can now buy metal roller versions that do not suffer the roller distortions prevalent on the stock plastic ones.

Oily

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Daz - 'parish' was a euphemism for BC member. Oily has done lots of these conversions so best placed to advise 'what' to do, so OP could be armed with the best advice before approaching someone local.

I passed my geography CSE (just) so am aware Milton Keynes is not in Yorkshire :-)

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