7_Malc Posted July 11, 2020 Share Posted July 11, 2020 So after a fabulous day blatting round Wiltshire, Oxfordshire, Berkshire and lots in between, I have arrived home to find my Roadsport 140 (supersport upgrade) dropping whats left of its coolant on the garage floor. The expansion bottle is empty. It ran great all day, not getting over 80*c and the fan kicking in as needed… now small puddles on the floor :(I have had a look underneath with a torch and squeezed all the (still hot) hoses, but the big puzzle is everything looks dry and firmly attached. The only damp-looking areas are the down near the sump, above the oil pressure sender – the low 'v' shaped black line – and the distributor cap and HT Leads seem to have spray / condensation on them? No sign of any oil/water mix under the oil filler cap. All clean.The puddle locations suggested front of engine, and possibly radiator… I foolishly moved the car back to get a better look. Doh!Pics for reference. So, do I refill and test for leaks in the garage, or is this a more serious issue that needs professional help before I risk running the engine again? many thanks, Malc Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SM25T Posted July 11, 2020 Share Posted July 11, 2020 Something has been spraying healthily there ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garybee Posted July 11, 2020 Share Posted July 11, 2020 Could be the classic header tank cap. How long was there between stopping and noticing the leak. Was it long enough for the coolant on the block to have evaporated off?It's easy enough to make up a 'pressure test cap' from an old cap and a tyre valve. Probably the most effective test you're likely to be able to carry out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SM25T Posted July 12, 2020 Share Posted July 12, 2020 Caps do fail and release early. Cheap and easy to replace. Buy one locally from car spares shop. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wrightpayne Posted July 12, 2020 Share Posted July 12, 2020 Buy two and have a spare! Then you know it will never fail again! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SM25T Posted July 12, 2020 Share Posted July 12, 2020 Rover part number PCD100160. Fitted to Many Rover cars. Car shop will have list of alternative part numbers that replace it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garybee Posted July 12, 2020 Share Posted July 12, 2020 I'd suggest making the leak tester and testing the rest of the system first. If you slap a new pressure cap on it and it dumps its coolant without you noticing you could easily end up cooking the head. Also worth checking for combustion gasses in the coolant. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
7_Malc Posted July 12, 2020 Author Share Posted July 12, 2020 Thanks everyone, much appreciated. Condensation under to bonnet would account for the floor puddles 10mins after I parked up in the garage. I will attempt to construct a pressure test cap (I have an old cap) and hook up my foot pump (with gauge) to see if there are any leaks.I have found this guide to a DIY pressure cap tester… https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/home-made-cooling-system-pressure-tester-save-yourself-£70.111882/but if anyone knows of a better one, please share it here.Q: Should I test with the heater valve open or closed? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SM25T Posted July 12, 2020 Share Posted July 12, 2020 A: depends if you want to test that part of the circuit or not. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Silver Machine Posted July 12, 2020 Share Posted July 12, 2020 Water pump seal ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garybee Posted July 12, 2020 Share Posted July 12, 2020 #8 - It'll test the entire system regardless of heater valve position. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
7_Malc Posted July 13, 2020 Author Share Posted July 13, 2020 Update: So I was about to refill the system to pressure test, when I noticed the heater hose was wet… (see photo) this is possible the leak. Having removed the hose, its actually two short hoses joined together. Is this standard, or should a replacement be single piece of hose from the heather to the engine block? Should this be a single hose? … so I think this needs to be an upgrade to a Silicone Hose set… before I call Chris @Redline, are there any brands more suited to the stresses of K-series life, or is all silicone equal? Thanks for your continued assistance,Malc Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roadsport06 Posted July 13, 2020 Share Posted July 13, 2020 I started reading at the top and was going to suggest a check of the hoses. http://www.sfsperformance.co.uk/ will sell you a complete set, you need to tell them you have a heater too. I had a pin hole leak years ago. It was quite surprising how much it could spray out, a quick one to diagnose in the garage when the coolant was up to temperature. I replaced the set to silicone ones by sfs. I think it was from a bulk buy here. Mine is in two. I can't remember if that was just how I made up mine, but I'm near certain that all I did was a straight swap. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wrightpayne Posted July 13, 2020 Share Posted July 13, 2020 Yes normally two pieces. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Silver Machine Posted July 13, 2020 Share Posted July 13, 2020 Classic silicone hoses are worth looking at. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john milner Posted July 15, 2020 Share Posted July 15, 2020 I replaced a two piece hose that was leaking at the joint for one piece silicone using a very generous club discount with SFS Performance part number CHS120.5. The part wasn't listed online but an email conversation identified the correct part. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
7_Malc Posted July 15, 2020 Author Share Posted July 15, 2020 David from SFS has (personally) delivered my replacement hoses and clips on his way home this evening. Top bloke, and the shiny hoses look great. The fitting marathon starts on Friday, so any tips / advice for a complete novice would be welcome, thank you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wrightpayne Posted July 16, 2020 Share Posted July 16, 2020 Have you chosen the replacement coolant? There was a recent thread on the topic suggesting the pink OAT type was not suitable for brass components! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john milner Posted July 16, 2020 Share Posted July 16, 2020 I think there is a question mark over some coolants and some silicone. I changed most of my hoses for Caterham branded silicone a few years ago but not had any problems yet with using Comma G30. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Jonathan Kay Posted July 17, 2020 Member Share Posted July 17, 2020 7_Malc: Please check your mailbox. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nickh7 Posted July 17, 2020 Share Posted July 17, 2020 Glad you found it Dave Gemzoe does a set with a bleed valve built in to make filling easy . Gemzoe Motorsport on FB. When you go silicone make sure you rough up the radiator connections and metal heater connections. With some Emery cloth as they can leak Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
7_Malc Posted July 17, 2020 Author Share Posted July 17, 2020 Cheers for the tip Nick - will apply that tomorrow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
7_Malc Posted July 18, 2020 Author Share Posted July 18, 2020 So coolant has been replaced, and ready for warming / bleeding… can I get the rad screw/bolt undone. No. 1. Does it unscrew to the left (standard direction)?2. How much torque can I put on it? The rad seems to deform slightly under pressure from the ring spanner so I am loathe to bend it too much…I have filled from the heater end, but usually bleed from the rad nut / expansion bottle. Is there a bleed method using the heater hoses instead? might be safer than ruining the radiator… Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
7_Malc Posted July 18, 2020 Author Share Posted July 18, 2020 It's loose now. Bloody tight! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
7_Malc Posted July 18, 2020 Author Share Posted July 18, 2020 Hmmmm. This is not going to plan.The bleed screw / but on my radiator does not have any kind of washer. Now when I try and tighten it, the thread stops but the nut still rotates in the hole. I can wiggle it up and down. Not a good seal. Should there be a washer here? If so, what kind / material? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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