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K Series engine removal and replacement


Golf Juliet Tango

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Looking through the Guides section of the site there is this guide: https://www.lotus7.club/guides/how-guides/removing-k-series-engine

For me, who will be doing this for the first time, a really straight forward step by step guide is needed, there seems to be a bit of prior knowledge in that account.  Of course the notes are most important when putting the thing back.  I could probably get it out but getting it wrong as you put it back will hurt more.

Surely we need a comprehensive guide?

 

BTW: I will be taking it out leaving the gearbox in place (by preference and in respect of the height of the garage).  My engine, in the 21 (which should make no difference) has an Apollo tank, so specific side notes on that will be needed.  I can add: "remove the bonnet and store carefully" as the first and "replace the bonnet" as the last move of the sequence.

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Unfortunately I can’t help Stephen but I completely agree with the step by step guide idea. It would make a good read for LF magazine too to have some technical content in each issue such as how fit SS cams, how to change the cam belt etc...

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Ian (SM25T) and Regin (rj)
Thank you for your comments which are meant kindly and as encouragement, I appreciate that.  I admire your relaxed attitude, perhaps you have more aptitude for this than I.  But, you haven't answered the question.

Ian (Wrightpayne)
If I had an Assembly Manual (for either the Crossflow Seven or for the 21) I would be content but the 21 was factory built and the manual for the Seven was not passed on by the vendor, so I assume they did not receive it from the first owner.

Steve (StevehS3)
I'm not even that ambitious.  Have you trawled through both the https://www.lotus7.club/guides and had a look at the archive http://lowflying.lotus7.club/lowflying/search.jsp  There is plenty of technical content in Low Flying.  Having indexed it, I know a lot of articles are technical.

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If I had an Assembly Manual (for either the Crossflow Seven or for the 21) I would be content but the 21 was factory built and the manual for the Seven was not passed on by the vendor, so I assume they did not receive it from the first owner.

What's the date of the Crossflow Seven? I've now got some early Assembly Guides.

Jonathan

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And I've got a mix of both old and newer.

There's one for the X-flow here:

http://www.regins.dk/Caterham/Assembly_guide_1992.pdf

And the 2001 version for K-cars here:

http://www.regins.dk/Caterham/Assembly_Guide_2001.pdf

Edited to add the following:

http://www.regins.dk/Caterham/Assembly_Guide_2007.pdf

http://www.regins.dk/Caterham/Assembly_Guide_2008.pdf

http://www.regins.dk/Caterham/Assembly_Guide_2014.pdf

http://www.regins.dk/Caterham/Assembly_Guide_Sigma_150.pdf

 

 

And yes, the comment was ment to be encouraging because it is kind of straight forward with a little (not so) common sense added.

I am sure you can do it!

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I've now got some early Assembly Guides.

Earliest I have is 1988.

And I've got a mix of both old and newer.

And I suspect that I now have all that are available. :-)

But if anyone has one that's older than 1988 or otherwise unusual please can I have a copy.

Thanks

Jonathan

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I expect an S3 K series build manual of the same era will be invaluable as the 21 is effectively the same chassis with some appendages.

I’m sure Jonathan will have a link to one. If not I’m happy to photocopy the section from mine and post it.

If its your first time I’d suggest seeing if there is someone local who can help - Tazio and I have done a few engines in and out recently between us and extra hands and eyes are invaluable when you’re operating the winch!

Regards

Ian

 

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I'm just looking through Regin's 1992 one, which appears to be "universal" as it mentions the spec of the Crossflow and the VX.  If it was superseded before 1996, then the later date is more likely to be relevant.

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If I remember correctly the 1992 version was what came with a 1995 X-flow car Stephen.

The one thing to be carefull with is not to damage the spigot bearing when you re-install the engine and what may be a little fiddly is to make the input shaft match with the clutch. Pay attention when you line the clutch up during the installation of the pressure plate. I have an old input shaft that I use, but before I got this from Phil at Road & Race (thanks Phil) I simply used my finger. Hard to explain but easy to feel when it's lined up. There are may ways to do this.

Apart from that, the first thing I do is to drain water and oil. Disconnect fuel hoses and wires (if you are not confident with the installation mark them up as mentioned) then I'd remove the exhaust completely and radiator / water hoses so that they are not in the way. I also remove the water rail not to damage it. I loosen the bolts on the rubber engine mounts without removing them. Remove the upper bolts from the bellhousing that goes to the top of the block. I remove the starter motor. Depening on which alternator you have it may be a good idea to remove this too. Then I lift the car to enable me to work from underneath. Remove the two M10 that are in the bellhousing and goes to the sump. Fit a sling that coes between, in my case, throttle body one and under the sump going up approximately between exhaust port 3 and 4. This has to go in an engine hoist (or in my case on my forklift, which I use as engine hoist). Make sure the lengths are right so that the engine does not tilt when you undo the engine mounts. Tighten it up! Remove the last two M12 bolts between engine and bellhousing (At the lower edge of the engine block, but above the sump - both sides) Remove the four bolst (two on each) that holds the engine mounts to the engine and simply turn away the iron mounts (This assuming the car is wet sumped - if not you need to remove the RHS engine mount completely).

Now you should be able to pull the engine forwards by a couple of inches and with the hoist lift it out.

Installation is just reverse if removal. And I may have forgotten something. I am in the living room as I type this.

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Personally I would remove the alternator as well, as it gives more clearance.

 

Don't forget to protect the bodywork.

I have done an engine change several times on my own on a 7, and you need to be careful when moving or lowering the hoist. I use a tool that fits to the hoist that allows you adjust the CofG of whatever is hanging off it.

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Hmm

 I find it easier just to use the sling under the engine. When I lifted it out from my estate, and down from the workbench, it was under the alternator bracket like this

IMG_20190426_173252.thumb.jpg.94e1feb919fd334445745b0cca467b4c.jpg

(Now is the time where it's be nice to be able to rotate images :-p )

and when I re-installed in the car it was like this - I want it at an angle just because it makes it easier to leaver it down when you're doing it alone and the gearbox is attached. Please note that I removed the engine mount to get it in. If it's the engine alone it has to be almost horisontal.

IMG_20190427_141040.thumb.jpg.ce6bf3aa8a7f930eeb70e76a9b9e70a4.jpg

 

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Kev

Yes, I know a load balancer is useful.  I plan/hope to borrow a hoist from either of two neighbours so will have to use whatever they have.

Regin mentions the alternator; on my 21 it is the standard unit, so big and prominent, so I will remove it.

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Stephen,

You could leave the bracket on the block. Once the primaries have been removed it should be fairly OK to do.

As you can gather from the picture mine isn't the bigges unit in the world.

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  • 3 weeks later...
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Stage 1 achieved this afternoon.

Bonnet off and stored safely.
Coolant drained, most hoses removed.

Careful examination of the electrics, with several pictures taken to see where the engine loom needs to be separated.

Lots of Plus-Gas (actually I have exhausted my stock of real Plus-Gas, I'm using the yellow capped WD40 penetrating oil https://www.wd40specialist.com/products/penetrating-oil/ which appears effective and as an aerosol is easier to get into those difficult to reach places) over the nuts and bolts I hope to remove tomorrow afternoon.

 

I know many of you could have had the engine out and put back in a few hours, so I apologise, I'm going more slowly, much more slowly.

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