K Series Starting Issue

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Orange
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Is it just that the battery has degraded very slightly (almost new - possibly started the car 20 times and been on a conditioner over winter) and with a bit of wear on the starter motor this it enough to upset the balance i.e. pull slightly too much power.

A new battery is obviously cheaper than a new starter but not if I have to buy one every six months.

Does the new starter use less power than the original Brise?

SM25T
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Do you have a battery isolater switch to protect the battery from any drain between drives ? Have you checked the liquid levels in every cell ?
Orange
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Yes checked the level in every cell and ok, I do not have an isolator but when not driving it is on a battery conditioner.

I am fairly convinced that the battery is good, I have started/ turned it over multiple times today and it did not show any signs of struggling.

 

revilla
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You can see this with any starter motor if the battery is failing, but I've seen issues with the Brise on perfectly good batteries. When we swapped my friends starter onto my engine test rig, that was freshly built with a new battery and a new, short wiring loom. As soon as we fitted the Brise, it inherited the problem.

SV VVC 170 - 170.4 bhp @ 7100 rpm - 142.4 ft.lb. @ 4900 rpm

Wrightpayne
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Have Brise received any 'feedback' from disgruntled owners? You would think (hope) they would want to remedy the problem with their design!

Ian

revilla
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@Wrightpayne - Yes they have. With the original car I investigated I sent all the details, oscilloscope traces etc. to them and exchanged some emails. It was a long time ago now so I can't remember exactly what was said but I think they acknowledged the issue and were going to investigate. With another more recent case I helped with, they sent out a transient suppressor component to try to see if it helped. I didn't think it would, and it didn't.

@Orange - If you really want to convince yourself that this is the issue before spending money on a nice new starter, I'm sure I could lay my hands on a spare Magneton starter (the original factor supplied model) that you could borrow to try out? I'd want it back though.

 

 

SV VVC 170 - 170.4 bhp @ 7100 rpm - 142.4 ft.lb. @ 4900 rpm

Dixa1225
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I had the exact same fault with my new Brise. Andrew (Revilla) very kindly helped diagnose this issue. I returned the Brise & had the old one refurbished.     

Orange
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Many thanks for the offer, I am convinced by the advice and will just buy a new WOSP starter I think. Last night I was starting to consider that the battery could be defective. Just want it fixed!

I am guessing that my old Brise starter may be of use to somebody without an AICV to contend with.

Thanks again.

Mechanical Moz
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I had these same problems with a Brise starter.  It was quite old and I didn't get any response to an email to Brise (the starter was old and on the car when I bought it to be fair) so I bought a WOSP.  It's exactly the same motor with exactly the same problem.  I've replaced the cables to the starter with new 25mm2 cable with professionally crimped lugs, no FIA switch either.  Same problem on both the original EU2 engine and replacement EU3 with a different ECU and MRFU and I've been through the 12V supply to the ECU cleaning and replacing connectors.

Replacing the original Banner with one of the Ultramax 20Ah units fixed it for a summer but then it started happening the following spring.  Battery on a CTEK conditioner during the summer and disconnected during the winter.  Stored in a warm dry garage.

Replaced the Ultramax with a new Banner, fixed it for a couple of summers then it started again.

I have a LiFePo4 unit to try in a couple of weeks when I put the car back on the road.  

Orange
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I have just bought a new WOSP starter from Redline so hoping this fixes it! You seem to have not found a solution.

We will see......