Jump to content
Click here if you are having website access problems ×

Lifting out a K-Series


Nick Lawrie

Recommended Posts

Hi!  I have a 1.6 K Supersport and am about to embark on a CRB replacement (13-ish K miles, so about standard, I believe). As I bought the car ready-built, I have no experience of hoisting the engine in/out. I can't see any obvious lifting points/brackets on the engine and am mindful of the plastic intake plumbing and the thermostat housing that could be damaged by a sling(s), I plan to leave the gearbox in place and will support it. Any advice?

Also. is it necessary to remove the exhaust manifold or just the exhaust (the basic 4 into 1 type)?

Many thanks!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hello,

 

You will have to globally disconnect everything from the engine:

Inlet manifold

Exhaust

Starter motor

Alternator

...

Disconnect the cooling plumbing but thermostat can stay at its place.

There isn't any lifting point onto this engine and using the inlet/exhaust manifolds studs isn't a good idea.

Photos below may help you in finding a solution:

DSC06069.thumb.JPG.2507c9b72f517c2c5582cb7248162439.JPG

DSC06078.thumb.JPG.450f88b143b3d5b3e097237ad13a7ee1.JPG

Additional home--made locking points can be set from an ali plate:

DSC06335.thumb.JPG.3d95c24cf1590cc628861d82c4257d98.JPG

DSC06342.thumb.JPG.72b4a69022050eccafdfa3da32e8fb5a.JPG

DSC06368.thumb.JPG.3abbfa56252c6e556ef6a2b275301f4f.JPG

 

I did remove the entire set: engine + gearbox as I had to refit the gearbox.

Removing only the engine will be easier.

Fred.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you search eBay for 1374179 that's the part number for a Ford lifting bracket. They're only £4 each and a good shape for attaching to most engines. If you buy a couple of those you'll have no trouble with lifting points. I'd loan you a couple but by the time we'd mailed them back and forth it'd be more expensive than just buying them.

I'd suggest removing the exhaust manifold to give yourself more room and reduce the chance of damaging the side skin.

Edit: I don't remove anything like as much as the fella' above. That's a very safe way of doing it though.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I use a machine mart load leveller, big bit of chain slung under geabox/bellhousing joint and two bits of short chain bolted tight with big washers against the forward threaded M8 holes in the cylinder head.

Exhaust off and both engine mounts once the weight on the hoist. Much easier if you have removeable chassis diagonals in the engine bay! I usually leave the plenum on and alternator. Starter is removed.
 

Ian

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hoicked it in and out a few times with bolts into the manifold mounting holes - they are more than capable of taking the weight.  Large dia washers through the chain links.  

There might actually be enough room to drag the engine all the way forward to reach in to change the CRB without removing it?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Fantastic replies all!  Many thanks.  I think that having the engine out will be a good chance to give it a thorough once-over and possibly fit a lightweight fly wheel...

Good points about removing all of the in and out plumbing and all ancillaries. As I'm planning to leave the 'box in place I hope for a reasonably straightforward job.  I must say that the quotes that I got for replacing what is a sub-thirty quid part seems a bit rich - as much as £1,250! That should more than cover the cost of the new flywheel...

Again, thanks.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Area Representative

Remove starter motor and exhaust manifold and drain coolant. No need to remove inlet or alternator. Remove engine mounts once engine is lifted a couple of inches. If you have an Apollo tank I'd recommend removing it and this means draining the oil. You can lift it out Apollo with engine but you risk putting strain on things and can result in cracking the very thin tank. 
I use old seat belts to form slings around the engine, threading though inlet and routing so as not to put stress on anything important/fragile. 
As it's the first time you've done this consider labeling the electrical connections as you remove them. It will make reassembly easier for you. Worth downloading assembly guide if you haven't already done so. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Plenty of good advice above.

...about to embark on a CRB replacement (13-ish K miles, so about standard, I believe)...

Has the old CRB failed in some way (squealing noise, graunching etc) or is this a preventive move?

If set up properly, a CRB should easily last 50K+ miles.  Unfortunately, the way it's set up in cable-clutch 7s generally leads to premature failure due to inadequate pre-load.  Have you read this guide?

JV

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Re #10:

Must type faster!!!

Yes, CC no longer stock CQ13 as their supplier went out of business (I believe).  AFAIK, Redline don't have it either.

I searched for an alternative recently but couldn't find an exact match, although I did find these:

 
 
 
 
The hooks are shorter than CQ13, but the number of coils is about the same.  Depending on the spring rate, it might do the job.
 

JV

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi John!

The CRB failed in a spectacular manner - much noise, vibration and no clutch disengagement. Got home by starting on the starter motor in second and crash changing the rest of the way.

I have read the guide (v.good) on pre-loading the CRB and will do so once I've located suitable springs as Caterham no longer stock the recommended ones.

As the SKF bearing seems to be in short supply, I've sourced two from separate people, one being Caterham's last one for the moment. Two CRBs, two clutch cables, two throttle cables - maybe a spare "K" in the boot?

Nick

Link to comment
Share on other sites

As the SKF bearing seems to be in short supply...

Personally, I'd opt for the INA bearing as that is designed to fit the clutch fork, and is Ford OE.  If you can't find one, try searching for an OE-compatible part.  (It looks as though you've done this already.)

INA F202994
Ford FINIS 6124270  (p/n 83BB 7548 AA)

The SKF CRB will work ok, but it's a poor fit in the clutch fork.  IMO, CC changed to this CRB rather than fix the basic engineering shortcoming, possibly because it required a lower pre-load.

ETA:  This LUK one would do the job.

JV

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 6 months later...

I'm currently helping a friend do a clutch & CRB change on his K Series, and while we're in there, change the actuation from hydraulic to cable.  Question is, is there any update on the "two springs" issue, i.e. a recommendation for alternatives to the CQ13s?

Thanks in advance
 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

...alternatives to the CQ13s?

I don't know of any that match exactly.  CC's supplier (I'm told) went out of business, and I imagine CC haven't needed to find alternatives.  Chris at Redline also doesn't have stock (I believe), although you might want to call him to see if he's unearthed an alternative.

Of the ones I listed in #11, I think the second is probably the closest.  But I don't know the spring rate.  Maybe Moss could advise?  If it's very different to CQ13, you'll need to play about with lengths to arrive at a total pull of 40N (20N per spring).

If you do find a suitable alternative, let me know and I'll update my Guide.

JV

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...