green george Posted February 22, 2015 Share Posted February 22, 2015 I am keen to fit the Think Auto supplied kit but a fitting guide with photos would be helpful. Does one exist? I am struggling to find one with hyper links that still work... Lots of posts but no guides.In general terms am I right in thinking:1) remove existing sender2) run aeroquip capillary tube through the grommet on top of the gear box3) fix to rear of new gauage- But, where is the T piece fixed?- The T piece allows for a low pressure light/led be utilised?Is there anyone near Bovingdon (HP3) who would be able to assist as I am not confident with wiring etc? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigel Riches Posted February 22, 2015 Share Posted February 22, 2015 Hi George. I think you may need to fit the "T" piece into the engine block, one little skinny union and pipe go to the gauge, the larger port accepts the low pressure switch, well, that's how it hangs on my zetec, and the same on the x flow previously. Hope this helps. Regards, Nigel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
F355GTS Posted February 22, 2015 Share Posted February 22, 2015 Yes, T piece into the engine block then pipe as you say to back of guage, then the light sender in the other port of the T.Normally the light sensor has two connections, one goes to any earth and the other to the warning light.As you already have a wire going from the old oil pressure sender to the old guage you can use this wire as your sender wire and use the live off the back of the oil pressure guage to go to the otherside of the bulb.Just for info when done mine reported no pressure on guage and light was on, I had to bleed the t piece to get it to work If you fancy a driveout to Newbury I'm more than happy to help/ guide Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Jonathan Kay Posted February 22, 2015 Member Share Posted February 22, 2015 Just for info when done mine reported no pressure on guage and light was on, I had to bleed the t piece to get it to work And see revilla's observations on bleeding.Jonathan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Vine Posted February 22, 2015 Share Posted February 22, 2015 Here's a very helpful guide.ETA: I also have a Word doc that describes how to fit a low-pressure switch and warning light (which is what the T-piece is for). Send me a message and I'll email it to you.JV Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Vine Posted February 22, 2015 Share Posted February 22, 2015 Hi George,Received your message, but I'll need your email address too.JV Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
green george Posted February 22, 2015 Author Share Posted February 22, 2015 F355GTS - Thank you for your offer to assist. I may well be in contact although I hope to find someone in the South Bucks / West Herts area. John - Thank for the guides. Tony C's guide shows the T piece but it appears that the T piece ends in the engine bay with the pressure sender and another set of electrical contacts presumably to an electric gauge; so this is a remote sender set up as opposed to a mechanical gauge (with a capillary tube plumbed into the back of it.Having had a quick look I cannot find any recent activity on Blatchat for Tony C leading me to conclude he is no longer active on this forum (although I have BM'd just in case).Can I ask the Lotus Seven Club management team consider writing a definitive how to guide for mechanical oil pressure senders and gauges with and without a low pressure warning light? (E-mail sent to "ask the team"). After all this is clearly a weak area on the K series engined 7's and there is not currently clear guidance on how to fit the parts as listed within Blatchat.Q: Would there be interest from other members for a definitive guide on the subject? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Vine Posted February 22, 2015 Share Posted February 22, 2015 The T-piece shown in Tony's write-up has two outlets: (1) the low-pressure switch (not connected) and (2) an adaptor to connect to the MOPG tube.I believe Think Auto may have changed the design of the T-piece recently. Does yours look different to Tony's?JV Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
green george Posted February 22, 2015 Author Share Posted February 22, 2015 Hi JVI haven't bought the kit yet I am waiting to work out how to do it first; although I will definitely want a low pressure light. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Vine Posted February 22, 2015 Share Posted February 22, 2015 Ah, I see. Well, have fun!JV Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bio Posted February 22, 2015 Share Posted February 22, 2015 HiI live in Kings Langley a short distance from you and have fitted a Think Auto gauge to my car and several others .Just shout if you need some help. John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
green george Posted February 22, 2015 Author Share Posted February 22, 2015 Hi JohnI would very much like to take your advice and perhaps have a look at your set up. Do you run a low oil pressure light?RegardsGeorge Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bio Posted February 22, 2015 Share Posted February 22, 2015 I don't run a warning light but that is not a big deal. What engine do you have?.....Think Auto to a complete kit for the K series. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
green george Posted February 22, 2015 Author Share Posted February 22, 2015 Hi I have a 1.6 EU2 K-Series engine. I will make contact with Think Auto.RegardsGeorge Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
green george Posted February 24, 2015 Author Share Posted February 24, 2015 Visited Think Auto yesterday and purchased the kit. Just need some warmer weather and I can test fit to see where it all goes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Area Representative paul richards Posted February 24, 2015 Area Representative Share Posted February 24, 2015 Now you've got the kit. Your chance to do a blog/guide showing how it's done. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
green george Posted February 25, 2015 Author Share Posted February 25, 2015 Thanks Paul! I can certainly take photos but will need someone help with the install of the lower pressure switch wiring and light. Just trying to figure out how to cut through my carbon fibre dash to fit the warning light.... I wonder if I can source a smaller but bright red LED? Anyway there is no rush and will probably wait for the brighter evenings Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dorset7 Posted February 26, 2015 Share Posted February 26, 2015 Having recently fitted a carbon dash and had to drill it I found a wood drill rather than a metal cutting drill easier to use (less grab) try a slower speed on the drill with tape applied to the surface to avoid scratching or the bit slipping. I drilled very slightly smaller than I needed and then opened the hole up with sandpaper wrapped around a small screwdriver shank, this method leaves a nice smooth edge and removes the risk of drilling too large a hole in the first place.Without doubt the best tip is - take your time, measure, measure, check, measure, check and drill. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
green george Posted February 26, 2015 Author Share Posted February 26, 2015 Hi Christian that sounds like advice well worth heeding. Thank you! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glasgow Posted February 28, 2015 Share Posted February 28, 2015 Hello,Does any one please have a drawing diagram for the circuit, thank you Ahmed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
green george Posted February 28, 2015 Author Share Posted February 28, 2015 Right, I have found 10mm 12v red LED lights on Ebay so have ordered a pack. I also saw the same spec but they flash twice a second which might be more noticeable... decisons decisons! Okay, how do I wire the low pressure switch and warning light up?The low pressure switch has two blade terminals and the low pressure warning light has two wires: I think the circuit should be as follows: 12v feed from an ignition live wire goes to one terminal on the oil pressure warning lamp. The other terminal, (the ground), then connects to the terminal on the Oil Pressure sender: when there's sufficient oil pressure the switch in the sender is open and there's no light lit. BUT, when the pressure drops below the senders trigger level, its internal switch closes and the current flows through the bulb, through the sender into the engine block and back via the blocks ground strap to the negative terminal on the battery. Does a ground wire normally have a specific colour? Lastly, what sort of electrical connector would you recommend for "tapping into an ignition live power source? I presume something like this would do: eBay item number: 180735526749 ? Described as Add A Circuit Fuse Tap Piggy-Back Standard Blade Fuse Holder ATO ATC 12v 24v . This replaces a fuse in the fuse box which allow two (2) fuses to piggy back the same socket. The 1st fuse of the original equipment the second provides a switched live. Looks quite good. Any view on its suitability? I presume the Caterham uses standard blade fuses? My car is not readily available at the moment for me to check.Many thanksGeorge Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
green george Posted March 1, 2015 Author Share Posted March 1, 2015 Okay, I think we are getting there. Thank you to those of you who have BM'd me.I will use an "Add a circuit" connector to tap into a switched live power source.That leaves just a couple of obvious questions unanswered;My low pressure switch has two (blade) terminals NOT one as many of you have referred to, SO: Does it matter which terminal that the (ground) wire attaches to? NO Do I need to run a wire from the second terminal to the engine block of similar? YES Will the fact that the (metal) low pressure switch is bolted to the chassis / engine mount automatically provide a suitable earth? NOThanks in advance Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
F355GTS Posted March 1, 2015 Share Posted March 1, 2015 1, No2. Yes3. NoSee my earleir post regarding using the existing sender wire, earth and live for the warning light Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
green george Posted March 1, 2015 Author Share Posted March 1, 2015 Dear F355GTS,Thank you for your reply. As suggested I reviewed your earlier post :"As you already have a wire going from the old oil pressure sender to the old guage you can use this wire as your sender wire and use the live off the back of the oil pressure guage to go to the otherside of the bulb".I also examined my car. What you suggest would work perfectly if I was leaving the low oil pressure sensor in the same vicinity. However, I remotely mounting it on the O/S/F engine mount arm in line with the dip stick(See photos below). The wire from the older sender will NOT reach the new location and I am not keen to start messing with the wiring loom to try to relocate the original wire to the new location. That is a good idea about using the live feed from the existing gauge; as that will be defunct with teh new mechanical gauge. Not sure what lurks behind the dashboard but will review this when I get there! Incidentally, I am led to believe the correct bolt size for mounting the remote sender here is M8x110Where should I run the ground wire from the second terminal to? e.g. can i use one of the white metal bolts in the picture or should I aim to run it to somewhre on the engine? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grandmaster Flatcap Posted May 4, 2015 Share Posted May 4, 2015 Help chaps. I've just removed the old electical sender from the front of the oil filter housing. I found two wires, one connected to the sender terminal coloured orange with a red trace and one red wire, fitted to a spade terminal and ziptied to the wiring loom but not connected to anything. PICI've removed the standard gauge from the dash and found (apart from the bulb circuit) one white, one black and two green wires. PICF355GTS above suggeests using the existing wire, but there isn't an orange/red at the gauge. I don't think even Caterham would make a loom with wires that change colours at random. Can anyone suggest which wire to use?(tracing with a meter is going to be a PITA as my arms aren't long enough to reach under the front of the engine from the cockpit )(Also, how does the electrical sender work with just the one wire connection? Don't you need two for a circuit?) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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