More sturdy clutch and flywheel recommendation - 1.6K Supersport

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nico.engel
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More sturdy clutch and flywheel recommendation - 1.6K Supersport

Hi there,

I don't want to interrupt the discussion on a similar thread for the 1.8K engine, so I started a new topic.

I'm a proudly owner, since march this year, of a seven 1.6K series supersport (not factory built). I bought it at the automobil-manufaktur from Ralf in southern Germany. So happy with this car and enjoy every second on the curvy roads.

Every year we make a tour through the alps with different cars. This year the first time with the seven. 1250km and approx 12.000m cumulative elevation gain. Drove the seven how it should used for it :) I don't have had so much fun since years while driving.

Last weekend I was on a drift advanced training at lake constance and it was such more fun :D After five hours of extremely constant load I think i blewed up my clutch. The next days I will bring the seven to my engine expert and he will look after it. N

Now to my questions. 

Which other clutch, as the original one, you may recommend me, which will last longer. But I don't want to built in a motorsport clutch, a bit comfort would be nice. 

And i don't know if it's already a lightweight flywheel mounted, this I will see when all parts are off. Exists a drawing or sketch to reduce weight on the original flywheel. Of course after machining, balancing is necessary. Or it's easier to buy a lightweight flywheel with a matching clutch?

Wrightpayne
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I have an AP uprated clutch kit in mine. I would hapily fit a helix clutch kit too.

It is worth searching for an article by John Vine on the clutch spring pre-load (spring inside the pedal box) as the standard set up is insufficient and can cause early release bearing failure. Fix is simple to add a second spring.

Regards

Ian

 

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Wrightpayne
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The Caterham lightweight flywheels are around 3.2-3.5 KG depending on type and are made of steel (as opposed to iron) so are alot stronger. Trigger pattern is also a consideration - very early ones had a different pattern.

I remember from my classic Mini days that you could lighten iron flywheels but take too much material off and they were prone to shattering. The unscientific test for flywheels and back plates was to tap them with a hammer - sharp ring = steel and dull ring = cast iron.

Ian

mark_w
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When my AP clutch and plate started slipping not long (enough) after having it  fitted, I went for the helix plate and cover and has been good so far, mainly chose helix on the findings and recommendations of this thread here

nico.engel
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Okay fine, than i will look for the helix update. The update of the clutch pre-loading spring i have read before and this is a nice update for little effort.

So when i change the clutch i have to change the cover also, right?
Will this set be the right one?

clutch - helix - 70-1605 (Link - burtonpower)
cover - helix - 60-3329 (Link - burtonpower)

Or ist he the 3 paddle race version the better choice for me. In the description says its suitable for higher temperature.
clutch - helix - 76-1605 (Link - burtonpower)

And do i need the matching release bearing for this kit or may use the installed one?

Wrightpayne
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You must change the release bearing as they are known to fail without the extra preload modification. This thread gives some reference numbers. Caterham online parts seem to be out of stock of the AB57U - perhaps Redline have them?

https://www.lotus7.club/forum/techtalk/what-make-clutch-release-bearing-do-caterham-now-supply

Wrightpayne
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Also, I'm not entirely sure those are the correct Helix parts - It is a Ford driven plate and a Rover pressure plate. There must be part numbers in the archives - I'll have a look!

 

Looks like I'm wrong (again) - The Helix website lists the same pressure plate for the xflow and k series! 
 

Pressure plate 60-3329

Road friction plate 70-1605

Race friction plate 76-1605

Bearing 40-2482

source:-

 

https://helixautosport.com/catalogues/201905-PerformanceClutches.pdf

 

nico.engel
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Fine, than I will use this part numbers and change also the release bearing. The preload modification I will update that either.

Do you recommend the race clutch or is the the standard clutch last enough? I will drive the seven as it used for it, in the Alps, fast curves and for some fun days like the drift training and some rounds over race circuits.

 

Edit: And do I need new bolts to the flywheel? I will renew the crank spigot bearing also for preventive maintenance, what is the right size for T9 5-gear and the rover 1.6k? Is it the 21x15mm

Wrightpayne
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The spigot bearing is a ford item and needs a sleeve to fit the Rover crank. Revilla has posted about the challenges of changing them recently and has sourced the sleeves from QED in Loughborough.

Please double check the part numbers for the Helix items - perhaps give Burton a call. I have personal experience of the AP items but never bought Helix items but read many others have used them and have been happy.

Regards

Ian

mark_w
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My car had a race paddle clutch fitted when I bought it. And they're not something I would recommend for touring or driving in stop start traffic as they are very on or off .