Nitron install

[Brightonuk]

The Nitron's are one there way so I wanted to get a jump start on the install as this is the first time I have messed with the suspension any tips on how to proceed?

Should I wind the collar all the way down to relieve spring pressure before I try to remove the old ones? (front and rear) 

Any tips on what to check and what not to do?

Thanks 

 

 

 

[AdrianC]

If the dampers have not been removed for sometime give all the bolts a good soaking in Plus Gas or similar.

You will need to jack the car up to remove, this takes all the weight off so not necessary to wind the collars.

[ECR]

It's an easy mistake to make but don't forget to jack the car to take the load off the springs before you start turning the spring collars. (the job's much easier!)

[nickh7]

Plus gas and a bit more plus gas on the lower front wishbones.

 

Did you remember you need the ali sleeves for the front suspension. I forgot when I moved from bushed dampers to Nitron . REDLINE have them.

 

They are fabulous, I moved from Street Series first and then on to NTR1s . I find that Nitrons need a bit of warming up bit like engine oil 10 -15 miles they are a bit crashy but after that the control is superb even.

 

Get a proper set up done, it's a waste of money if you don't. Dave at Gemzoe Motorsport is just brilliant because he sets it up for your driving style not just a bog standard one size fits all. It's like night and day .

 

 

 

 

[Brightonuk]

I am state side so I guess I will need to reuse the sleeves from the Bilstein's

You would think for the cost of these they would come with everything you need to install and not have to reuse old parts. 

Especially something as cheap as inserts 

[AdrianC]

My Nitrons from Meteor Motorsport were supplied with new front inserts

[Brightonuk]

Should of been simple but the best laid plans...

The upper front bolt sits square to the body no way can I remove it to release the strut 

I cant bend the body enough as the bolt hits it dead center I would need to bend the body a minimum of 4mm+ to get this out 

Any suggestions?

 

[SM25T]

You can press that ali by a lot more than 4mm with your thumbs.

[Brightonuk]

OK I will give it a go but seemed kinda unwilling to flex as much as I need I really need two pairs of hands but I did not want to involve the wife as this was an unauthorized purchase.

[SM25T]

Put several layers of masking tape on the paintwork where the spanner or bolt might touch.

[Brightonuk]

OK sorted (without the wife sussing out the new shocks)

On the rear it seems that installing them with the springs up makes sense as the damping adjustment is more accessible or do they have to be installed with the springs on the bottom?

[7 wonders of the world]

Oh she WILL know.......

.....they always do......  

[Drumster]

New shocks are allowed, after all they're 'safety upgrades' 

[7 wonders of the world]

A Rotrex would help move you out of the way of a potential accident too..... so man logic says this is a 'safety upgrade' too....?

[elie boone]

Once up a time there was a recces in the alloy so that the bolt could pass without a problem ( 1990 ish )

[SLR No.77]

Ensure the bolt is fully out of the threads then turn it so that a flat is parallel to the side skin, apply a little outward pressure to the side skin and draw the bolt out without rotating. Same method to refit.

Stu.

[Brightonuk]

Thanks for all the advise it was a breeze in the end but first time you kind of play a guessing game and things don't always seem so obvious.

I still have the question regarding the rear shocks can they be installed inverted as access to the damping knob is easy through the boot if I install them with the spring on top