You can sleeve the bare track rods with black heat shrink tube tucking one end under the boot, then use these
cut the closed end to fit over the track roads and the large end then slides over the threads, lock nyt and onto the track rod end
NB the TRE's and upper ball joints can be cleaned degreased and painted to match with wishbones using this too, al protected then.
Satin smoothrite is the other option which you can buy in a tine rather than aerosol.
Naturally fitting the sleeve and boot meeans taking the TRS-s off but worth doing.
I bought a new spray bottle at the weekend specially for this job since the one that comes with the bottle of acf50 wouldnt atomise the fluid. Unfortunately neither would the new one. Realised that keeping the acf50 in a cold garage probably not a great idea, too cold and gloopy for a cheap spray bottle to atomise it. Next time will try warming it up in some hot water first.
i reverted to a rag soaked in acf50 and wiped it over everything, seems to work well enough, filthy job
If you check out car detailing websites (polished bliss, cleanyourcar) they sell quality, chemical resistant spray bottles.
Yes, I use the corrosion block grease. Use it every time i split a connector/ protect battery terminals etc etc. Always on the shelf. I use the spray can and liquid ACF50. Another protective product to consider is XCP Professional rust blocker. A trigger spray bottle container, this is slightly thicker than ACF and does leave a slightly coloured film on the component, but has good staying power,
Like many motorcycle riders and 7 owners, salt gritters make me paranoid.
I use ACF50 every year. Works fine with a cheap plant spray bottle. However you do need to leave the bottle in a bowl of hot water to get the best results.
when you do the grot traps, Jack front of car up so liquid runs better.
Could some clarify exactly where the grot traps are? I thought they were the area down the chassis rail where it meets the end of the footwells, but not too sure now?