Jump to content
Click here if you are having website access problems ×

Oil Pressure Gauge Capillary Tube


revilla

Recommended Posts

Just supposing for a moment that "a friend" *yes* was stupid enough to nick a hole in the oil pressure guage capillary tube *weeping* whilst snipping of a cable tie ...

Where would be the best place to source a replacement? What length is required (I haven't pulled to old one out to measure yet) and is it practial to buy the tube and end fittings separately which would make it a lot easier for me (I mean ... "a friend") to feed the new pipe through in place of the old one? I realise the ends have to be secure enought to withstand the pressure.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The 1/8" NPT male at the engine end is tiny enough to thread through any grommet or wherever the hose is routed. Get it ready made up. Also consider running it inside a 5mm bore screenwash hose as a bit of external protection against plonkers working near it.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks all, and thanks SM25T for the charming PM :) I guess I deserved it ...

 

So 7' is the consensus on ready-made pipes?

 

Unfortunately, putting my hand up into the gear tunnel from the engine bay I can feel that the original installer seems to have been quite keen on cable ties around the pipe and the main loom. These are ties I can't even see. It's going to be fun cutting them off without doing further damage for a plonker like me!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hmmm ... don't know what route you guys are using but I just managed to get it off and measure it, and it's plenty long enough at exactly 6' - and that's on an SV! Mine was routed from the gauge down through the big grommet in front of the gear lever then forward into the engine bay and along the engine wiring loom, following the tail of the loom round past the dipstick and across the loom shoe at the front of the engine straight to the oil filter housing.

@SM25T - The pipe on mine has identical female fittings at both ends like this:

OilPressurePipe.jpg.815c30fa4854aaf5145b5dd7e86e14e9.jpg

At the engine end, there is an adapter with two male threads of differing sizes, what looks like something like M12 fine with a copper washer on the engine side and what I guess is 1/8 BSP cone to mate to the pipe. Your earlier reply seemed to say it was a male fitting at the engine end - is mine unusual then?

Will be a bit tighter to squeeze through the big grommet but I guess other people manage *smile* 

A quick google search finds this from Demon Tweeks - and probably cheaper elsewhere with a bit more looking. I'll double-check the engine end fitting before ordering one - although it looks identical from outside I've left it done up a the moment to avoid an oil leak.

Thanks as always for all the helpful input.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

@SM25T - Ian I'm liking your idea of protecting it inside some plastic tube - but how do you get it in? Presumably you split the tube along its length with a sharp knife? Does the capillary then stay put fairly well or do you need plenty of tape or cable ties?
Link to comment
Share on other sites

As my capillary tube came ready assembled, I found a screenwash hose with a thick wall and slit it from end to end with a new Stanley knife blade. It doesn't cut straight .... more of a spiral, so this works fine at keeping it in place. A few wraps of insulating tape helps. Across the front of the engine, I put that outer tube inside another bit of split rubber hose. If you can get a new hose with loose supplied olives and fittings, it will save you having to split the hose .... as long as you remember to slide it on first !
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...