Propshaft removal

[TomB]

I think the answer is 'no', but having taken the engine and gearbox out of my 1996 K Series, is it possible to remove the propshaft without taking the diff out?  I detached the prop from the diff flange, and found I couldn't move it forward through the tunnel as the propshaft flange was too wide. 

Is it possible to take the prop up through the upper rear cover on the tunnel? Again, I don't think it is possible as the rear bulkhead will stop rearward movement of the prop.  

Am I right in thinking the only way to remove the prop for a check over is to remove the diff? 

[paul richards]

Tom

Diff out to remove prop. 

[TomB]

Drat, thought so after my misguided efforts of undoing the propshaft-diff bolts! Looks like its staying put for now! 

[Jim 123]

If you can't get the prop out because of the diff, there should be grease nipples on both prop UJ's which you may want to consider giving a squirt?
 

[Wrightpayne]

with flexi pipes on the calipers I think you could have the diff out and back in, in half a day. I unbolt the ears so no need to disturb the two drive shaft nuts and withdraw the whole disc assembly and driveshaft.

I'll be eating my words soon as need to take mine out to attend to all 3 seals and the gearbox output seal.

Ian

[Strangely]

Tom, sorry if this is too late, but there is a write-up on Phil Waters' blog (see Sunday 14th - Propshaft Swap), describing how we replaced the propshaft on my '96 K-Series without removing the diff, or the engine and gearbox.

[John Vine]

....without removing the diff,...

That blog's a great read (thanks for the pointer), but I couldn't find anything about removing the prop without first dropping the diff.  Did I miss something?

JV

[Wrightpayne]

Sun 14th section actually describes removing the diff to get the prop out, but leaves the dedion in place. In part of the blog, it mentions it is possible on a live axle.

I have a bit of 3/4" ply I bolt onto my trolley jack to sit the diff on, to lower and raise it.

Ian

[Strangely]

Phil's car is a live axle, but he was describing work on my car, which is a de Dion. The original question asked about removing the propshaft without taking the diff out, which is what this process allows. It does include "dropping the diff", but that doesn't require removing the halfshafts and completely removing the diff from the car.

[Wrightpayne]

Arh...that makes sense now.

[John Vine]

Yes, I see.  Neat trick!

JV

[TomB]

Just spotted this had come back to life!  Thanks for the link, looks and interesting technique. I think I’ll be leaving it alone though for now, I’ve e ought to do! Let’s sleeping diffs lie! It has allowed me to see where the back lash / clonk is - it’s the front flange of the diff that can move a few degrees before it engages. It’s not in the prop UJs. One winter, probably not this one, I’ll drop the diff for an overhaul and do the prop at the same time. 

[TomB]

Morning, picking up my own thread from a few months ago. 

The diff & prop came out, and the car has been reskinned and is freshly painted.  Now my thought turn to putting it all back together.  The diff-propshaft bolts I took out where hex headed, with blue thread lock pre-painted on the bolts.  Im renewing all the other suspension fasteners, so dont see why I shouldnt change these four bolts for new.  However, Caterham only supply capheads with no thread lock at £2 each and Redline dont have any.

So, do I reuse the originals and put some Loctite on (243?), find some bolts locally of the right grade and size (M10, 10.9 or more) and use Loctite, buy from CC (looks like a standard caphead and use Loctite), or buy something like these from eBay https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FORD-GRANADA-SIERRA-PROPSHAFT-AXLE-FLANGE-BOLTS-12-9-HT-UPRATED-MK1-MK2-MK3-LSD/132864856338?hash=item1eef5cd112:g:LJ4AAOxyyghQ6sij

[SM25T]

I would reuse with loctite.

[ChrisC]

Bolts are bolts, if they are the correct spec.  If you want new source them locally and use loctite.   I would guess 243, but not 100% sure, but would check the build manual.