Area Representative Geoff Brown Posted March 24, 2014 Area Representative Share Posted March 24, 2014 Some may remember that I made an enquiry about the gap for NGK/FOMOCO TR6AP-13 spark plugs. Started the annual service today and removed plugs....gap looked a little large, far more than the advice offered. So contacted CC. The CORRECT GAP FOR THESE PLUGS IS .040" or about 1mm. Any views on why No3 plug was showing a rich mixture (1,2 & 4) nice and grey. Possible injector problem??Wheel Bearings For all you guys out there who have built their own car in the last few years or even own a factory car the front hubs and uprights come fully built and one would presume put together with care and proper lubrication. WARNING...check your bearings for lubrication. I was going to do this on the first service any way but the evidence of very black and hard 'grease' issuing from around the n/side outer bearing seal confirmed I should dismantle and check. On dismantling the n/side front bearings showed a lack of proper grease, in fact the grease that was present was quite hard and black. The stub axle showed signs of heat stress and no lubrication. The o/side bearings and stub axle were in better shape but still had inadequate lubrication. Everything was cleaned, greased and re-assembled to my satisfaction. So BEWARE do not leave those front hubs until the four year point that CC recommend for re-packing bearings. As the bearings will not make it if mine were anything to go by. I estimate that the N/side bearings would have probably failed in another 1500-2000 miles and as a consequence damaged the hub and stub axle. Good old CC!!**<img data-cke-saved-src="" src=""images/smilies/thumbsdown.gif"" alt=""thumbs" down"="" class=""smiley""> Edited by - Geoff Brown on 3 Apr 2014 16:18:33 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DJ. Posted March 24, 2014 Share Posted March 24, 2014 I had this with my 2010 car, I stupidly assumed they would have been assembled correctly until I read the warnings last year. There was inadequate grease, and the muppet who assembled them had damaged the inner seal on both sides 😔 Consequently, I've just had to change them at 12,000 miles. Sorry I can't help on the plugs. Duncan Edited by - DJ. on 24 Mar 2014 18:57:13 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stationary M25 Traveller Posted March 24, 2014 Share Posted March 24, 2014 I have experienced new cars with no grease in front bearings !! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CharlesElliott Posted March 24, 2014 Share Posted March 24, 2014 I managed to destroy a bearing due to lack of grease on my race car - it also took the hub and sub axle with it. But it was my own fault..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Area Representative paul richards Posted March 24, 2014 Area Representative Share Posted March 24, 2014 No surprises. At BKG we've seen lots of newish and brand new cars with little or no grease in the front bearings. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted March 24, 2014 Share Posted March 24, 2014 BKG pointed out the issue to me and helped to sort it out. Pictures below. December 2013 delivery. Without Grease here With Grease here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Domus Posted March 24, 2014 Share Posted March 24, 2014 Since helping Andrew we had a chance to look at Tony Smiths 2010 car. Guess what, minimal grease. In my short time this must be the sixth or seventh car I have seen like this. I urge all owners who have not checked, to do so before the blatting season gets under way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
juleslid Posted March 25, 2014 Share Posted March 25, 2014 You've got me worried now! My self-built 2010 175 Roadsport would seem to right in the zone for wheel bearing worries. Is it possible to easily get some grease easily into the front hubs while they're in situ? Obvs the build manual is no help as the front hubs arrive assembled... And I'd just dropped the car back onto the ground after its winter refresh! Cheers, Jules Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Domus Posted March 25, 2014 Share Posted March 25, 2014 Well worth checking. Up on stands, grip wheel at 12 o clock and six o clock to check for any wobble, spin wheel to check for tightness neither should be apparent. Wheel off, calliper off (tie it up out of the way) Remove split pin ( you will need a new one) remove nut and spacer. Pull disc assembly towards you to dislodge front bearing, collect bearing and place on clean rag with nut and spacer. Fully remove disc assembly and gasp at how little grease is there. Note that there is a very thin spacer / washer on the stub axle. Gently wipe all parts with clean rag. Grease rear bearing and re fit to disc assembly being careful to fully seat the seal, grease the cavity and front bearing, again taking care of the front seal. Lightly grease the stub axle and slide the assembly back home being careful of the seals. Re fit spacer and nut. Just nip up the nut at this stage to where the split pin goes in the same direction as before i.e. either horizontal or vertical. Fit the wheel and check for wobble. Non is permitted adjust nut so there is no wobble and split pin lines up. I hope all that makes sense. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
juleslid Posted March 25, 2014 Share Posted March 25, 2014 Thanks Peter, most helpful. I have today off, it's raining, so I think an afternoon in the garage is called for! Jules Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ECR Posted March 25, 2014 Share Posted March 25, 2014 At the risk of stating the obvious. The nut should be tightened so that there is no play in the bearing as Peter says, but don't over tighten it..... Note that there are 2 possible positions (holes) for the split pin in the axle Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomB Posted March 25, 2014 Share Posted March 25, 2014 And actually pack the grease into the bearing rollers. I think the repacking is 12000 miles service interval but I tend to do it every winter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
juleslid Posted March 25, 2014 Share Posted March 25, 2014 Thanks to all for your thoughts. Job now done, and not too tricky at all. The scene behind the disc wasn't as horrific as some have found, but whoever assembled it, no, that was too kind, I meant whoever threw it together in a hurry certainly took advice from the writing on my grease tin and avoided any overpacking of the bearing. Before doing his best to destroy the seals! The bearings were originally free of play, so were simply tightened up to their original position. To be sure, I think it would be wise to replace them next winter, perhaps at the same time as the discs, which now have a bit of a lip on them. Out of interest, how long do front upgraded discs last for most people? Car has done 10K and gets a couple of track days per year... Jules Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Vine Posted March 26, 2014 Share Posted March 26, 2014 Quoting Geoff Brown: Some may remember that I made an enquiry about the gap for NGK/FOMOCO TR6AP-13 spark plugs. Started the annual service today and removed plugs....gap looked a little large, far more than the advice offered. So contacted CC. The CORRECT GAP FOR THESE PLUGS IS .040" or about 1mm That surprises me as the "13" suffix denotes 1.3mm (51 thou). (Thanks for the grease alert. ) JV Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Area Representative Geoff Brown Posted April 3, 2014 Author Area Representative Share Posted April 3, 2014 THANKS FOR ALL THE REPLIES....YES THERE IS A PROBLEM. I HAVE FLAGGED THIS UP WITH THE FACTORY BUT ALL STRANGELY QUIET AT THE MOMENT....! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin J Posted April 3, 2014 Share Posted April 3, 2014 Re-packed my front bearings, they were ok just a bit black. What about the rears? I don't know how to do them or or are they sealed bearings? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Vine Posted April 6, 2014 Share Posted April 6, 2014 Just for clarification, are we talking here about the standard hubs (with thin spindles) or the uprated ones (with fat spindles)? JV Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DJ. Posted April 6, 2014 Share Posted April 6, 2014 My car has the uprated bearings/axles and had very little grease. Duncan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Vine Posted April 6, 2014 Share Posted April 6, 2014 Hmmm... so, have I got this right? The standard hubs (ex Triumph Spitfire?) have the thin stub axle, and the bearings are the opposed taper-roller type (which you do NOT want to overtighten). The uprated hubs have a much thicker stub axle, and the bearings are ball races. Presumably it's not possible to overtighten these (at least, not in the way you can with the taper type). Geoff's original post suggests an R400D. If so, that would have (like mine) the uprated hubs. So, is this problem confined just to the uprated hubs? JV Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stationary M25 Traveller Posted April 6, 2014 Share Posted April 6, 2014 Upgrade has larger stub axle .... but still taper roller bearings .... both sealed and same size Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Vine Posted April 6, 2014 Share Posted April 6, 2014 Ah, OK. I'd imagined that the uprated hub had ball races rather than tapered rollers. JV Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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