Rear ARB Drop links

[Sandy]

I need to swap out rear roll bar drop links to try and dial out the play and clunking. (Not sure I'm ready yet to remove even though its been suggested)

Anyone know if there are any better quality drop link sources than CC parts?

Or even better if there is a rose joint upgrade anyone has done and if so what did you buy and from where?

(My links drop down below the DD tube just in front of the rear wheels and not above as I have seen some others)

TIA

[ChrisC]

Not that expensive from CC 

https://caterhamparts.co.uk/anti-roll-bars/3334-ball-droplink-anti-roll-bar.html

 

[Sandy]

Hi Chris,

I was more interested in better quality parts or upgrades?

I've spoken to a few who say their drop links have play even soon after replacing so wondered if anyone knew of a better alternative esp rose joint as an alternative?

[mikecocker]

I wonder if something like this would work

http://www.wychbearings.co.uk/fp-m08s_rodend_bearing.html

[Sandy]

Ooh that looks interesting, cheers Mike ill look into that 

[Bricol]

I've had success with joints from McGill Motorsport.

Lancia integrale evo front anti-roll bar ones are M8 and under a lot of stress - the standard ones used to fail pretty quick.

I ran some from McGill for over 10 yrs and when I removed them a few years ago, while they looked and felt terrible, they still had no play.  I used their rubber boots to protect them - undecided if they protected or held water in with them. 

[mikecocker]

Bricol, are you talking about something like this

http://www.mcgillmotorsport.com/m8-x-1-25mm-male-female-ball-joint-track-rod-end-938/

These appear to have a much higher load rating (6 times) than the rod ends I linked to earlier, and also a good angular displacement. I also like the rubber boot.

[Geoff Brown]

You can purchase just the ball & socket end from CC. Kep the threaded section obviously. Before fitting remove the small locking wire & carefully extract the ball from the cup......place in soft vice jaws & gently lever out with strategically positioned pliers to prevent thread damage.

Copious grease in socket then push ball back in & fit lock wire. Clean off excess grease. Lubrication prevents wear & does last a Blatting year. I always re grease at every annual service.

My current set of drop link ends have been in for four years. The first set lasted just over a year without lubrication

 

[Sandy]

My DLs are the same as these

https://caterhamparts.co.uk/anti-roll-bars/598-rear-anti-roll-bar-droplink-1991-onwards.html?search_query=drop+links&results=14

So could I order 4No of Bricols suggestion and make up using the my threaded bar - Are the threads would be the same?

http://www.mcgillmotorsport.com/m8-x-1-25mm-male-female-ball-joint-track-rod-end-938/

Cheers, Sandy

[mikecocker]

Caterham also do these

https://caterhamparts.co.uk/anti-roll-bars/3721-rear-anti-roll-bar-droplink-metric.html?search_query=Rear+drop+links&results=52

so I assume yours are imperial. McGill only do metric track rod ends so you'll also need 8mm nuts and threaded bar.

As a matter of interest, I wonder why the metric links are 50% more expensive?

[Drumster]

Interesting comment re imperial v metric.

I'm thinking of re-installing my rear ARB after many years to play round more with settings for sprinting.

The threaded bar etc on the original droplinks from my 1993 imperial chassis are all M8

[juleslid]

Thanks for the heads-up re McGill Motorsport, I found some freeplay in my droplinks (again) during the winter fettle and took the advice in this discussion, fitting the McGill items today.

FYI the McGill ones are a bit bigger and heftier, and look as if they should do the job well. But for the weight-obsessed amongst you, they each weigh 65g vs the CC items at 48g!

There were also some rose joint options on the site, but I chose to play safe as they live in such an exposed area.

Jules

 

 

[John Vine]

I've just fitted McGill rod-ends to my R400D rear ARB, following an MOT advisory. 

They are meaty-looking fellas, and slightly longer overall compared to the CC ones.  Note that the threaded pegs have shoulders (the CC ones are fully threaded), so when fitting the upper end to the hex mounting boss, you'll need a couple of M8 washers as spacers.

JV