Rear Hub Nut

[Beagler]

What do people do to lock rear hub to enable undoing and tightening the rear hub nut @ 270Nm.

 

[Jonathan Kay]

I borrowed a suitable torque wrench. There are several in the Equipment Register, along with sockets..

Some tighten them blind and gingerly drive to where there's an available wrench.

And some do force x distance with a rigid lever.

Jonathan

PS: I used a piece of angle iron with holes drilled for two wheel studs to deliver the counterforce from the floor.

PPS: Do check that you have the correctly handed nut, and start by hand...

[John Vine]

Assuming you have the brakes connected, get an assistant to stand on them hard.

JV

[Beagler]

Thanks guys.

have ordered this,

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B08BWXC9WM/ref=pe_27063361_485629781_TE_item

my wrench only goes to 150Nm

 

[ScottR400D]

Why are you undoing them, your car should have the sealed for life bearings, I would have thought? 

[Beagler]

Diff whine so changing it. Balance Propshaft, Drive shaft hubs and discs rusty. Paint calipers, replace handbrake cable as is rusty. Touch up suspension where required. All over winter.

[paul richards]

I have a suitable torque wrench you can borrow. Are you changing diff because it whines? Not sure a new one will be any better. 

[Beagler]

Thanks Paul.  Have already ordered torque wrench. Always wonder if a new diff would be better so want to eliminate it.

can sell existing diff if new one is same as it must be ok.

[Geoff Brown]

To undo the hub nut do not utilise a torque wrench. It will be damaged if used as an every day ratchet handle.

Use a two foot breaker bar to break the stick of the hub nut. Easily done with car on ground, rears wheels chocked, in gear & hand brake hard on. If not impact wrench !

By all means use a torque wrench to tighten the hub nut. This should be done in stages. Up to 60NM initially then another intermediate stage before the final torque loading.

Recheck torque loading after 150-200 miles. You may be surprised.

 

[Beagler]

Thanks Geoff. As a time served mechanic and subsequent military Aircraft Engineer, I am familiar with torque wrench use. I do have a long socket bar for undoing. Got a 1mtr angle iron fro B&Q and put two 12mm holes in for studs to hold hub.
Thanks for your help. 

[grumpy the 7th]

Be aware that the car will lift up off the stand if the hand brake brake isn't well pulled up 

[StevehS3]

Scott, I wondered if you knew what year the change to sealed for life bearings took place? Is there a way to tell visually without removing 'the nut'? My K series left the factory in Nov. 2011.

[Beagler]

Yes so you put the angle iron on the same side as the bar so the force is down not up

[Jonathan Kay]

"... what year the change to sealed for life bearings took place?"

2016 suggested here:

https://www.lotus7.club/comment/2353316#comment-2353316

That thread also includes details of the hub nuts and bearings.

Jonathan

[Jonathan Kay]

"Yes so you put the angle iron on the same side as the bar so the force is down not up"

Hard to describe, but easy when you've got it in front of you!

:-)

Jonathan

[ScottR400D]

#13. Not sure it would make any difference. You're putting a torque on the nut/hub. The reaction from the angle bar on the floor is trying to lift the car but that should only happen if the hub rotates. 

Safer, IMO, to pull the breaker towards you not push it down. The angle iron needs to on the side of the hub your turning towards so it will be to the back of the car on both sides. (I think!)

[Beagler]

Will make sure it doesnt lift the car.

[aerobod - near CYYC]

Also of note is the left hand drive shaft nut has a left hand thread. If there is no need to service the bearing and the aim is to get at the diff, it is usually easier to undo the deDion ear, remove the brake caliper slider bolts and support the caliper, then take the driveshaft, hub, ear and brake disc off as a unit.

[Beagler]

Driveshafts, calipers and discs and anything else that needs it will be dismantled and painted.

Thanks for your input James. 

 

My moto is "If it moves oil it. If it doesnt paint it" 

[ScottR400D]

I wouldn't apply that motto to your brake discs. The changing of which is the only reason you need to disturb the bearings. Everything else can be accessed without. 

Are they really that rusty? Mine are still fine after 6 years, 
 

[Beagler]

This was my Westfield built in 1995, still on the road today somewhere.

 

[Wrightpayne]

Not sure of the 'modern' sevens but my '98 car uses triumph discs on the back (like the fronts) which are cheap as chips so if you are taking apart just fit new ones. They have thin headed bolts attaching them to the hub which come off better with a modified socket. Basically grind the bevelled edge off the front face of a 'consumable' socket. I found a 14mm was a snug fit on the imperial size bolt...

[Beagler]

Anyone changed the diff without using an engine hoist.

[Wrightpayne]

I just bench press it with an assistant to poke the long bolt in. If I'm solo I have a diff shaped piece of ply I bolt to the trolley jack and lift it up on that

[SM25T]

Remove and refit diff on my own. I use a trolley jack to help lower and raise it. Ref socket for disc bolt removal ... even better is a proper hex socket ... still with the end face ground off.